davecara

B12 motor, Gen1 busa pistons AND rods. Any ideas what thickness base spacer i’ll need to get to around 9.5:1? i believe the busa rods are a touch stronger than the bandit ones? Anyone have any input?

Its going to 0.050 Ta folks

Yeah sorry, its a B12 engine. Currently being bored to 81mm to accept Busa pistons. The barrels are bored, they just need taking to final size. I wasn't sure if standard bandit clearances would apply or not

Anyone know what it should be offhand? Busa pistons and my block is ready for its final bore but I can’t find any info on what running clearance we need

I got bored waiting for the Gen2 ones to be given to me, so I bought some Gen1 with rods for not much moolah! Gonna have a think about which rods to use to get to my desired CR. Which I also need to have a think about!

Not too far away from loads of us then!! Kat looks a good 'un

Company called 'one offs' in Liverpool might be able to sort you out? http://www.oneoffslimited.co.uk/ I havent built a full frame from scratch but I built this from a headstock and downtubes. Getting the joints right and double checking alignment after every tack and full weld is key. Was for me anyway I will add I worked in an engineering shop at the time and their MIG was very forgiving, not been able to replicate the welding on this frame with my little clarke turbo thing at home! YET!!

Ah ok, didn’t know the cam covers were different! I’ve got B12 cases/crank/rods 1127 barrels, 1216 pistons and that’s my lot so far so nothing set in stone!

I’ll be strapping a turbo to it in time so a dot would be a waste really, plus I’ve got a B12 crank so i’ll need cams to match. If you’re giving one away though i’ll Take it off your hands!

It’s a very bare head I’ve picked up cheap, for what it’ll cost for cars, valves and rockers etc I’ll be better getting a complete head I reckon. Advice duly noted for future reference though This ‘1216 for cheap’ idea is going to go VERY wrong I can feel it

For the price of a new head it not worth the risk then. Itll do for mocking up

Would I be right in thinking the a head is pretty much scrap without them unless I go down the road of line boring etc?

That pump does have a built in regulator but it wont be 1:1 rising rate so you'll end up with the same issues

@Harry74I'll be able to confirm in the next week or so, just waiting for my bodywork to land and sort a few niggles out I'll be there though even if I'm not with the bike

Nice! Any plans for it?

85 slabby will have twin pickups, so you'd need to put the twin pickups and rotor on the 1100 motor. Should be straightforward enough though. Just don't rev the tits off it...

Just thinking of chopping the end of a scrapper to lose that cafe loop thing

Also, what @vizmansaid

Looks ET to me, deffo an ET tank at least. B12 swinger goes in with top hat spacers, plenty of folk on here can make then for you. If your staying twin shock then you'll need mounts welded to the arm; again load of folk on here can point you the right way B12 front ends go right in but you'll need to swap steering stems iirc as the B12 is quite long. You'' find all the bits you need here! Keep the pics coming! Once you suss out exactly what model it is, id suggest asking about for either a scrap frame or an imported frame that would be ballache to get on the road (no NOVA docs etc) and chop the arse off that and blue glue onto yours

Because I’m a tart! thats what I’ll end up doing I reckon if I can’t sort it.

I've got a not long rebuild Garrett T3 that I took off my old shonky sierra before it died of tinworm, The turbine housing is missing off it though and the standard sierra cos housing is internally gated. Anyone know what else used the T3 that I could pinch an externally gated housing off? I would stay internally gated but I don't think theres room for the wastegate actuator as its a bit tight down there (ooer!) Pic for OSS content

I know that’s why I’m trying to get all the bits on the cheap Hopefully there’s an 1127 bottom end going that I can trade bits for and I’ll just give that a refresh. Fingers crossed all the bearings will be within spec

I would prefer not to pull my 1052 to bits to be honest but it comes down to pennies at the end of the day! I've rather foolishly set myself a bit of a challenge to see how cheaply I can stick a turbo motor together!! I've got the run of a decent machine shop and loads of bits to trade/swap so I'll see what I can find. Got 1127 barrels, turbo headers and busa pistons and a load of other odds and sods off a mate, there may be an 1127 bottom end coming my way too that needs a rebuild so fingers crossed if I can get that I'll keep the 1052 in one piece Then it'll just be shells and gaskets to pay proper money for!

Are all the heads interchangeable too? So far I’m looking at a set of 1127 barrels rebored to suit my pistons; then either build up a bitsa 1127 bottom end or use my 1052 engine

As @MeanBean49said, I made tophats to put the swingarm slightly offset to centralise the wheel to the frame. Using an oil cooled engine too so I'm unsure what the alignment would be like with a proper EF engine. I mustve struck lucky with my wheel swingarm combo as theres wasn't any need for machining on the wheel. Just a few spacers to knockup