badgerkdd

just wondered more about if it mess about with the running of the engine etc, otherwise maybe I could look at newer 750 headers, oh and get my welder out

Can anyone advise me on whether I can use Srad headers on a WN head/ engine? Got rusty holes in my downpipes, I've sorted them for the moment but I'm looking to replace. So far its hard to find any secondhand WN/WR pipes but there's quite a few srad 97/98 on 'that' site. I know the silencer fitting is different but I can deal with that, I just want to know will there be any performance issues, or manifold spacing issues? Thanks.

Next time my 750 decides to blow up I might head down this road too . If you do this, start up a build thread please @spondonturbo for future reference .

Gsxr750 2000 model is what I've got on mine

As Sid James would say.....'Phwoarrrrr'

Nice work on the can, looks like a 'bought' one . Oh and I can imagine it is VERY loud !

Acid etch is always the way to go on wheel rims ( in my experience anyway ) it helps a bit with cack handed tyre changers chipping paint off, gives a better base to bond the top coat to. Looking very smart though .

That's a lovely machine, glad you're enjoying it! Now stop lurking and get posting up your upgrades

Perranporth Airfield are running a few drag days through the year and they let you Run what you Brung! The strip is shared with cars but it seems like a pretty laid back affair. I don't know a lot more but thought I'd let people know. You can get more info on https://www.facebook.com/Spitfire-Raceway-Cornwall-184741941861991/ Cheers, Badger.

Allens confused the white nylon spacers for washers so had to order some from the Netherlands, anyway, its all arrived Carb servicing time on Monday then

When I swapped engines t'other month I had a general look over the carbs and noticed that the wearing on the jet needles had got worse, the spacers had worn ridges into them and a couple of the diaphrams were caught under the carb top, not split but not far off. Ok best get some new needles, spacers, and diaphrams then. After a bit of searching I contacted Allens Performance, up Nottingham way and had a very productive chat with 'Dave'. He did some digging for me and my intial choice of needle number was wrong, it was so worn off it read as a different code! We found the correct needles and they are now on the way, as are two diaphrams and 8 spacers! It turns out that there are two different size spacers and the only way I can find out which ones I need is measure the originals, as Suzuki won't let Allens know what the part number refers to spacer size 1 or 2 , that will be 4 of each then, its easier ( only 50p each ). The downside is my bank account is now down £120!! That does include postage though :)) ....... Fun with carbs next week then hopefully !

Sounds like a wise decision to pass. Make the most of what you have bought and now enjoy the spring

Well good luck then

if its a cheap dog though you could have a nice project on your hands

Great photo's! That's the one thing I miss about pre internet days though, fewer and fewer local breakers yards to spend a Saturday morning rummaging through, browsing auction sites just doesn't smell the same.

Have you discovered a rich vein of OSS in the Canadian Mountains or something? Oh while you're splashing cash, you may need a bigger garage too !

If well maintained and in Excellent condition then it would be fair to push the max to £1200. As the Cap'n said take it for a ride, have a good listen to the engine and ask questions as to how often the oil was changed, bearings replaced etc. good strong bikes if looked after but agree with @Gixer1460 cam chain/ tensioner could be worn/ wearing so listen for top end rattles.

hello definitely the place to be especially with project pics

10w is a fairly standard grade of fork oil, I use it in my 750 wr forks. If your forks feel different since the re build, and you've changed nothing else, chances are the previous oil was probably 10w.

ooo that's been slightly modified then

Having had work and life get in the way of fettling, I've just been riding the bike a few times this week but have had a chance to experiment. I took my mates advice and bunged some fresh fuel in and half a bottle of redex, then rode it around for a good hour using all parts of the rev range and gears. Its made quite a difference, I managed to get a lot cleaner acceleration although still a bit wooly in places. After a few miles I pulled on the choke, just a small advance and it did make it a bit happier about cleanly running through the higher speeds and rev range. So early this coming week I will be raising the needles by one groove and then giving her a good run around to see the results. Will post up the result.

haven't checked it, it should be ok but yes you are right, sometimes its the simple things. I've been too busy today to have a fiddle around but I'm taking the bike to work tomorrow and will have the opportunity to get the tank off and have a play with carbs, tank filter etc.

looks nice, stealth mode

yeah standard airbox, with K and N filter, I am planning on raising the needles this week, when I got the bike the needles were set to middle clip position ( 3), so I may go back to that, but was going to try the choke trick to get an idea if that is the way to go. My hair is going slowly, I've nothing left to pull out Valve clearances are good, checked them before installing the engine. The needles in my carbs have 5 clip positions, wasn't sure if they were dynojet needles or if 5 clip is standard on WR model carbs?

Ok I just need some second opinions etc. on what I think is a fuelling issue? I've fitted a replacement engine to my Gsxr, it ticks over nicely and is not making any worrisome noises. When I ride it and crack up through the revs/ gears it seems to hit about 60/70 mph and seems to run out of revs/ speed and feels sluggish and held back. If on the other hand I ride it gently and accelerate slowly,work up through the gears, the speed will rise to 100 mph and rising ( didn't push it further as it was raining harder and harder, didn't want to bin it). When putting the bike back together, I discovered one throttle cable ( not sure if push or pull) had a slight kink in the outer, but the throttle seems to open and close cleanly, with no hesitation. So my classic car friend ( Brian) and I have a couple of options on what it may be, but I'm open to your greater range of knowledge. We are at: Sticky throttle cable, seems unlikely though Dirt in carbs, cleaned fairly recently but not after old engine developed clatter/ power loss. Possibly, and this is where my friend is heading, the older broken engine used to run quite rich and has lower compression on each cylinder, I dropped the needles to the last ring which seemed to cure the richness, now the replacement engine has better compression and we are thinking maybe the carbs are now running too lean and its behaving like a fuel starvation issue. I'm riding with 1 tooth less sprocket on the front and 1 tooth plus on the rear, don't think that would affect the rev range seriously, but again open to ideas/ experiences. Finally a mate who runs older classic bikes suggested a fresh tank of fuel, redex additive and a good long run as I don't know how long the engine was stood unused in the previous owners garage. Carbs are standard off of a 94 WR model but engine is from a 93 WP model. So Monday or Tuesday, depending on available time I'm going to give the bike a run out, but try running on small increments of choke to add a bit extra fuel. I'll whip the tank off first though to check all cables are clear and check the state of the plug electrodes for colour/ oiliness etc. Now 'Fonts of Knowledge' come forward and enlighten me, please!!