badgerkdd

New cam chain tensioner fitted last night so now doing test runs. Will give proper update in a day or so .

I run 180 quite happily, not sure of the clearance on a 190 as the 180 is running quite close to the chain already.

Ahhh see, dementia hasn't quite set in yet

I believe they are longer, I'm sure there's a post on another thread that says so? I can measure my 750 WR swinger if that helps though?

Given yourself endless nights scanning the net for bits I'd say Isn't it that thing about its not the destination, its the journey, just keep repeating that over and over and over and over..........................................

Phwoarrrrr, I'v come over all hot and bothered

Ok so last night I got the rocker cover back off, checked the cam chain and it has 1/2" of movement up and down. Took out the standard Chain tensioner and there's plenty of adjustability left on the rachet, so I am fairly certain its not operating properly. I would only expect a maximum of 1/4" deflection if the chain was properly tensioned, according to what I can find on the web, anyway, but double checking my manual today ( didn't have it with me last night ). Just waiting for the Ape to arrive now!

Fingers crossed , I'll be sure to update on progress.

It's definitely not its normal running noise.It's fairly much the same noise if its cold or warm, possibly more noise when under acceleration though, not loud like the cam chains real loose, just more noise than I would expect, or what it was making before the cam guide got mashed. I'll have to be honest I don't know what valve lash sounds like ( haven't had it before ) so I couldn't say if it is that? The cam chain seemed ok tension wise before I put the rocker cover back on, and the cams etc. were in the correct position as described in the manual.

If you only go up at the rear it may be a bit tight at 108 links, hence why I'm down at the front and up at the back, it should balance the chain length. Going down 1 tooth at the front has put my chain at the full extension of the rear wheel spindle, btw.

If its any help I've just fitted a shock from a GSXR 750 Y ( 2000 ) to my WR. It went in reasonably easy without any changes needed. It does feel a bit softer but I've yet to ride it in anger, although it felt a bit more compliant on the local Cornish roads ( twisty but bumpy ) than my old shock which had a tendency to be too hard especially on rebound. Once my other problems are sorted and the roads dry up a bit I'll give it a proper test .

well thought I'd better re visit this thread as things have moved on. Once the engine was stripped down, the head was sent to a local motor engineers for a skim, valve check etc. and the problem was revealed to be a broken cam chain guide. This meant a full engine strip as it was the rear guide, which is fixed under the camshaft. This is what was retrieved from the lower cases... And the cam guide looks like this..... Well a replacement guide was sourced, as was a new chain tensioner spring and the engine was rebuilt. I also took this opportunity to replace the clutch springs as the old ones were well out of spec. The head came back from the Engineers, who commented on the overall good condition of valves, springs, seats etc. Good news but at least its now had a 40 odd thousand mile refresh. I also took the opportunity to clean and re paint some engine parts and cases, so the engine is looking tidy again... So with a few niggles here and there, sorted with time and patience ( and a few choice words) the engine is back in the frame and a few evenings in the workshop the bike is back together and running again. BUT!!!!!! After a few test rides and allowing for everything bedding back in, I still have BLOODY CAM CHAIN NOISE!! ARRRGGGGGGG! I've taken the advice given on here and I'm now awaiting the immanent arrival of an Ape Manual Cam chain Tensioner from GrumpySpares! Hopefully this will sort the last problem and I can get back to riding the bike.

I've gone one tooth down on my front sprocket, to be honest not noticed a huge difference, maybe a bit cleaner on pick up? I've now just had delivered a new rear sprocket with one more tooth, to try. I'm not looking to be lifting the front in all gears, just want a tad more liveliness on acceleration. I'll report back when its fitted and I've had a chance to put it to the test.

If you're anywhere near West Cornwall I'll lend you my coils for a few test rides

I had what sounds like a similar problem on my 750 WR, did what Jaydee suggests and it worked a treat. Might be worth checking your throttle cables aren't stretched/ badly adjusted at the same time too.

Only Japanese logic

You are right. My six pots all had the same size diameter pistons. I bought new seals from Wemoto and they came all the same size, we also made a whole new set of pistons on the lathe at work and used the same diameter for all 6. My GSXR is the 94 WR model same as yours ( yours should have the blue anodised front fork bodies? ). Unless someone knows different , I'd say your supplier is wrong? ( I'm learning to never assume I know anything until at lease several people on here have verified it).

Maybe he mistook the confusion generated from his first post as a smear on his expansive knowledge, as listed in his final post. Perhaps we should have just stroked our beards and nodded wisely at his sage like advice

Err... Irish seems a bit peeved?? Didn't think anyone was that harsh, oh well best tidy up the toys then............................

If you can get a dremmell with a small fibre disc on you could cut a slot for a flat screwdriver bit then take an impact driver to it? I did that to the stuck screws in the battery box area and managed to get most free. I've just had a similar problem with cap head bolts on the lower crankcase and had to drill it out eventually. Sometimes its just easier and quicker, I spent several hours doing all the other stuff, welding etc. but in the end came back to drilling it out, took 5 mins and was easy to get the bolt remains out afterwards.

Depending on the age of the cable, oiling it might be the wrong way to go? Modern cables have the ptfe liners and oiling the cable causes it to swell and the cable then sticks. That's what I was told once anyway, by a mechanic friend.

Thanks for that! I've decided to leave the barrels and piston's be at the moment though, I've had the head back from re conditioning and its nice and shiny . So I'm just going to take apart the bottom half of the engine, replace the broken cam guide then put the engine back together. Before I took it apart, the compression test showed it was at 9 kg/m3 on cylinder 2, compared to 10 / 10.5 kg/m3 on the other 3 cylinders and the manual states the wear limit is at 8 kg/m3 or a 2 kg/m3 drop across two cylinders. As its under the wear limits I'm going to live with it for the moment until it either complains badly or I can find another set of WR barrels ( seem unobtainium at the moment ), if it complains badly then I'll have to look at total engine replacement ( found one complete on the Bay for 600 quid ) as the re bore/ new pistons cost is the same as the second hand engine. here's the broken cam guide pics for you though .....

I've got a factory manual but always worth a double check! Having spoken to Robinson's factory they said the WR is different spec to 93 WN/ WP models. I'm mostly concerned about some scoring inside one of the bores, compression is still within service limits but less than the other 3 cylinders. Problem is, having costed a re bore and oversize pistons/ rings to be around 500 odd quid that's out of my budget at the moment. I might just get a hone to clean the bore of any debris and live with the scoring until either second hand barrels come up or I can afford the re bore.

That opens up a few options, thanks @Kristjan

Having done some research ( at the expense of my real work, oops ) it seems the 93 to 95 models are interchangeable, apart from I've found the CC was upped slightly on the 94/95 models. Wouldn't this mean the bore on a 93 model wouldn't match that of the 94/ 95 's?