fatblokeonbandit

Ive done 2, both times used 750 j/k cams and heads with standard bandit cam wheels and off they went.. 133 rwhp last time, rev like fek, fun fun fun

That is plan "D" ash, if its still a smoker when I get it going.. Plan "E" still involves the canal

oil cooler, carbs, coils and a fes bits to put pn they we shall see.... gottac watch the motogp first...

Right after ignoring it for a few weeks I bought a load of London pride and spent until 1 am last night getting it back together, luckily I dint get it in upside down or anything daft I'm getting quite adept at fitting the engine on my own now But I must complain about Yoshimura build quality!!! ive only had my coffee mug for 6 years and the handles fell off

Just had a quick look, just the shells and thrust bearing cost £250 plus VAT plus postage.. that will buy you a few pies

if the 5th gear hadnt needed replacing would you have worried about the bearings???

leave it well alone, the shells for mains and big ends cost hundreds, i did one years ago and it would have been cheaper to buy a second hand motor.

doh!,, note to self, read post properly before opening gob

I take it you are removing the stanchions from the knuckles, good luck, it was a real bastard to unscrew them once I had drilled the tiny grub screws out, in the end I heated them up and put the old stanchion in a big lathe at work to stop it turning and stuck a long bar through the spindle hole, they were really tight as to fitting the seals cover the bush recesses with sellotape to stop the sharp edges cutting the seal, also get a seal driver or make one it will help no end

tl1000s every time , my red S race bike was one of the best bikes ive ever owned x q

keeping them untill im 110% sure they work fine

Bugger me they are shiney Ive lost 15mm ride height I think, hope that's ok clearance wise

iwas goung to use that method but couldnt find a paint tin the right size ......so i used my lathe instead shipmate

Oh yes they are too short as well. the shortness is sorted with a double top yoke I have had fitted for ages, and the bottom yoke I have is a 55mm Hayabusa one anyway, some old discs are sacrificed for spacers, I need 5mm with b12 discs, but realised if In use slingy discs I only need 2.5 mm more offset.. . some machining to the sppedo drive and spacers gets the wheel in the middle and the discs spacers sort the alignment out, new pads and cobble it all together and we are somewhere handy.. some brackets need making for the mudguard then its time to try and see if it all fits on the bike.. I hope so or it could all be for sale again toot sweet.

I acquired these form a decent northern chap on here, for some English pound notes and a pair of Pasties. I don't think he had ever tried something so exotic.. Anyway, the plan is to replace the L/M forks and R1 callipers on my Shiney bandit, with these loverly things. its going to take some jiggery pokery as the spindle size, disc offset and spacing is all wrong for a b12/slingy front wheel I want to use to retain the speedo drive.. so some measuring a threaded collar is made to fit the bandit spindle, and spindle machined to fit.. .

they have different part numbers but are the same well I cant see the difference and ive used b6 on a b12

i thought yhe 750 gsxr,s are only eligable for the superstock, not production class?? i have no illusions pf being anywhere near the front so having a slower gsx wont be a problem?? so which modles had 17 or 18 inch wherls??

Ladies and Gentlemen, I know this will be a contentious question with as many answers as there are bikes, but which is the best for a spot of CRMC proddy racing??? regs say 1973 to 1986 un modified, basically standard road bike with brake hoses, road legal race can and new shocks, which ones have decent wheel sizes to get proper tyres for?? EFE has 16 inch front doesn't it, is that the most powerful, as I'm not as slim as I used to be and the more power the better??? anything cheap out there,, and what's an 1100 ez like??? can you get 19 inch race tyres??? I'm used to big unwieldy bikes on the track as I stupidly raced a bog standard 1200 bandit in the streestocks for 3 years 15 years ago, so I am well used to coming at the back as I was rubbish at t, BUT it was the most fun I've ever had so am thinking about another go before I'm too old and worn out and cant get me leg over anymore............................ Any advice will be gratefully received and probably ignored if something really cheap turns up

Something like this I think it coast £125 all in

Yup....

you have to use the bandit cqm wheels as the cam chains are of a differant type, and some people recomend slotting the sprockets and dialing them in, if you have the expertise and equipment then it is probably best, but i didnt know any better when i did it the first time 10 years ago, so i slapped them in and fired it up and it went like a rocket

Best bang for your buck on a b12 engine is to stick the head and cams from a gsxr750 J/K as this bolts straight on and ups comp ratio and has better cams, Ive done it twice to 1200 engines and had over 130 rwhp both times, and the things rev much better, you do lose mid range though..... or just the cams should see you over 120 rwhp..

Anyway with a bit of jiggery pokery it looks like I will be able to retain the b12 wheel speedo drive and discs, needs some serious spacer making and a bit of machining to the drive , but should be Ok..

keeping them until I'm 100% sure the new stuff is all OK, I'm not sure though, as over the years they have cost a bleedin' fortune, they are 750 L forks re worked and revalved by Linderman engineering with R1 gold spot callipers, they are really very good, but the new ones are much shineyer

Serioulsy loosing the plot with this, no time to do it, no time for anything at the moment, might have to sell it??? let someone else sort it and actually use it, 500 miles in 3 years