Upshotknothole

By the way, what are you doing to the B12 engine? I can’t imagine it’s going in stock.

Only if the header clears the sump. L/M are more likely to fit than a J/K as they’re slightly taller engines. The rest of it should line up fine as long as it clears the sump.

As in boring.

Check the float needles, they shouldn’t leak, but all my bikes with RS or FCR carbs I just get in the habit of turning the petcock off when leaving the bike. I’ve got a dirt bike made by that brand that won’t be mentioned here with an FCR carb on it, and if I leave the petcock on, the garage smells of gas constantly because the float bowl vents directly to atmosphere and it’ll keep evaporating gas as long as there’s gas in the bowl.

My 7/11(that I need to put back together) has RS38s, you give up some bottom end around town, but get into the twisties or a long open road, and they come alive. Velocity stacks and RamAir filters are the way to go with them. I’m expecting my 750 to be nothing but top end with them if I can get it running.

Crank won’t budge if you try and turn it?

Glad to know I’m not the only one, and I can still ride the bike but it’s fucking distracting shifting gears. Makes me actually use the clutch to shift. Gonna pull my carbs apart in the morning, if I have to do the valves, I’m gonna drop in an 1127 and rebuild the 750 later.

Cool, I might see if I have a spare throttle cable, otherwise I'll give this one a good lube and give the carbs a quick going over.

So I think I first noticed this a few days ago, but yesterday when doing about a 3 hour ride I really started to notice it. When shifting especially, the revs are hanging and not dropping when rolling off the throttle slightly. Usually up around 5-6K when doing "normal" city and back roads riding. If I let go of the throttle and let it snap shut, it's fine. Adjusted the throttle cable in the garage earlier and pulled the throttle apart, everything there seems normal. It's not an air leak as I've dealt with those way too many times and it returns to normal idle if I snap the throttle closed. I'll be pulling the tank off tomorrow and looking into it. Maybe a sticky throttle cable, though it doesn't feel bad. I can try lubricating it tomorrow when the tank is off. Anything else it might be? I'll check the throttle linkage too. They're CV carbs so not really sure what could cause the revs to hang. Thanks, just looking for ideas before I tear into the bike tomorrow. The bike is a full fairing 750, and there's so much factory crap under the tank, I wouldn't be terribly surprised if something was just interfering with the throttle.

Finally got around to checking my carbs. Currently have 135s in them. My stock BST38s started being really slow to return to idle yesterday if I didn’t let the throttle snap closed, like not really dropping RPM when rolling off while shifting. So thinking I might finally go ahead and swap these in tomorrow. If they’re too much, I’ll stick an 1127 into the bike next week.

Thanks, I’ll suggest that as a starting point.

Oh yeah, always forget about the signals. I think I’m the only person I know with stock signals in the stock holes. I know about the grab rail on the 1100, I think I’ve got one or two of those things stuck in a box. If you’re painting the mids, you can always fill in the holes, though mids are pretty cheap anymore.

Trying to help a friend out that has some old I believe slabby yosh forks and no idea how much fork oil to use in them. Anyone have any ideas? I can probably get more photos if needed

Yeah, totally different heights. Between the 750 and 1100, the mids and lowers and mostly the tails are the same. Upper and bracket are totally different because of where the clipons are mounted. I think the headlights are the same, but not positive. Check Eblag here in the states, the brackets come up pretty often. I need to start working on my naked GSXRs again, I’m getting to know too much about fairings.

Which engine?

Factory Pro usually only has Mikuni emulsion tubes for the GSXRs if they have any at all. They used stock tubes, custom needles, and Dynojet used their own design for both.

Bandit 1200 exhausts are your best bet. Exhausts for 750 L/M/N(US) are the rarest of all the old GSXR exhausts at this point. I need to swap in an 1127 into mine, but currently running a full Ti Akra system off a bandit on mine. Hangs a bit low, but the 1127 lump will fix that. And plan on probably having to swap the oil pan on the 1100 to one that came off a single exhaust bike.

Local breaker or Eblag. They show up pretty often around Europe and Japan. Also I believe the L/M 750s and 1100s used the same harness, but check part numbers. New ones pretty much don’t exist anymore except for stupid money.

Those look like Mikuni RS carbs, probably 36 but ask. If they’re 34s, I’d pass on them, 36s work on an 1100, not as much top end as 38s, but more useable power for the street.

Stock carbs? I’d go with a Factory Pro stage 3 kit.

I looked awhile back for a PDF, eventually found one. Then went out to the garage and immediately found my actual Suzuki factory manual. Usually how it works out.

Honestly the only reason I’d run W forks is because I want to keep the stock gauges. It’s a 750N, that was still oil in the states, but same purple paint job you guys got on the 92 Ws. All my other GSXRs get modern suspension, and I like the idea of doing some GSXR K forks in blue, but this stupid bike I want to keep period correct.

Hopefully they have some NOS. Looks like it’s one more part that Suzuki has discontinued. Got me thinking if I have an extra one in any of my spares boxes.

Forgot the part number. 23116-27A30

Talking about this thing? There’s a couple on Eblag right now, that’s probably your best bet.