Upshotknothole

The ram air filters flow a lot better than the K&Ns and the airbox rubbers probably help too. I still use K&Ns with CV carbs, but I use dual ram air with velocity stacks on flat slides.

I really wish we got these in the states. Search around online, plenty of Suzuki factory manuals out there. If you mainly need it for the engine, the GSXF750 manual should be pretty close.

I've been seeing an uptick in people on the internet claiming that you need an air box to get maximum HP out of these old GSXR engines lately, especially over on facebook. If that was true, all of the old racers would have kept the air boxes. Fuel injected bikes, thumpers, bikes with ram air and down draft carbs, yeah they need air boxes. Bandits and GSXRs are mostly fine without them. You want the dual pod filters, don't use the singles. Explanation I heard years ago was the dual pods give more standing air for the carbs to draw from, lets them breath a little better. Whether that's actually true or not, who knows, it's just what I was told and has been my experience with individual pods ever since. Most of the stock bandit/gsxr carbs work great without an airbox, the BST40s being the exception. Just extremely hard to tune with pods. A jet kit from DynoJet or FactoryPro will get you pretty close to where you want to be, a dyno will always get it the rest of the way.

This! I don't even trust hand written receipts anymore. Unless they're printed receipts from a legitimate shop, they don't mean shit.

Hearing it run is always a good start. Test ride it and see how the transmission and clutch feel.

Also, that 750 CDI has a rev limiter way higher than what that 1127 engine ever wants to see. Pay attention while riding, or swap it for an 1100 CDI or you're likely to blow the engine if you over rev it too many times.

Search around, this has been brought up a lot of times. Usually you only want the M-Unit controlling power to the CDI.

Not timing if it's idling. If it's only 3 and 4, then either plugs or carbs. Coils should be wired up to 1 & 4, and 2 & 3.

If the cams are 180 out, you'll get suction on the exhaust and it won't run at all. Any history on it?

Sometimes the floats stick and just need to be knocked around a bit to set them. Oil leak could be something loose or something needs a new crush washer. Clutch plates are probably stuck together, especially if the bike sat for a long time. You can disassemble the clutch and see how it looks, or if you're not too worried about it, roll the bike up to a wall or something to brace the front wheel with, start it up, and dump the clutch to do a burn out and see if it breaks free. I'd be more inclined to pull the clutch apart.

Any recommendations on the aftermarket ones? My 750 needs one, I've got all the brackets, but I'm sure the damper died years ago and was tossed. Ideally something adjustable.

Stock carbs? Grab an old throttle cable/string/zip tie and hook them up to the carbs and see how much comes out when you open them all the way.

I don't think the stock ones could ever be rebuilt, and if they could, Suzuki would have discontinued the parts years ago. A quick google search and it sounds like you can carefully uncrimp it and take it apart and replace the bushings with generic ones, but there aren't any rebuild kits or anything like that for them.

Unfortunately not many other options.

Talking about the front ones? No blanking plates that I know of, but people have gotten creative and mounted bar end LED signals as flush mounts.

Nope, I've only got two of the 750 ones, and they're both currently in bikes to keep them rollers. I've seen the braced 750 swing arms go cheap on Eblag from time to time, but seems like all the 1100W stuff is going for stupid money now.

Maybe if enough of us show interest he might do another batch of them. I wouldn't mind having one in case I should decide to go that route with another build in the future. I still have a couple 95 GSXR 750w braced swing arms that are an easier swap, but they're getting harder to find and don't really look as nice as the newer stuff in some builds.

I'm pretty sure I've seen the drawings in the custom builds section. I think it might have been in @Digsbuild, but not positive.

If you search, someone on here was selling lower bolt on brackets for fitting busa arms, they work with the K arms as well. Measurements should still be on here too. They bolt to where the exhaust hanger attaches to the frame below where the stock linkage attaches.

Different tooth count between the 1127s and 1200s. Gotta swap the gear, which is a pain, or any of the 1200s will fit, they're all interchangeable. Don't try and start it with that GSXR one in there, you'll lose teeth.

You don't get bragging rights at the pub for easy mods. I've had a bike with a stock SSSA and they're great for working on, look amazing, easy to clean the wheel etc, but I believe Triumph listed a 40+ lbs difference between the SSSA and the conventional the one time they offered a choice. These days I'd rather go for the weight savings and easier mods, but they do still look good.

The shop that did mine had a computrac system and did all the measurements and calculations. My 89 7/11 is almost identical to a mid 00's 750 as far as geometry goes, the wheel base is only like I think 20mm longer. Handles great, but definitely sits higher than a stock slingshot 750.

I love this site because someone will come along and make me feel like I have a totally normal number of GSXRs.

I have a K4 swing arm in my 89 7/11, either the top shock mount or the bottom linkage mount needs to be moved back to make it work. I have a custom top shock mount on mine, but seen plenty of people move the bottom mount as well.