Jaydee

Haven't got that far in the build yet C.C. Have to put the loom in and get a battery. Just trying to get my way through the parts needed list at the mo.

Ah I remembered something about the resistor thingy fitted to a 12, but my memory was a little hazy on the stone cold facts. So mk1 6 and 12 bandits are resistor-less ignitions then? Happy daze (I hope!).

I was wondering if the 6's had a built in resistor too? A lot easier to find than the 12 items.

The ignition that came in the box of bits to put a mk.1 bandit 1200 together is fubar. Might not even be the ignition that was on the bike so time to get a new one. I remember something about the 12's having a built in resistor as an anti theft feature(?). Is it only on the mk.1 12 or can an ignition from a 600 or mk.2 models do? I know I can chop and solder in a resistor at the cdi but don't really want to go chopping a perfectly good loom, besides I need a new ignition anyway. I see plenty of mk.1 600 ignitions on that auction site with sellers listing them as 600/1200 ignitions. Don't want to buy a 600 item if it aint gonna work.

The K models 750 and 11 have the removable top shock mount. The top shock mounts are offset to the left with a vfr arm. How far left depends on what wheel, size of tyre etc. Handy enough to make new mount plates once you've cut off the old ones and flap wheeled the welding surface flat. I thought of doing adjustable top shock mount but in the end I went with adjustable dog bones to change the angle of the arm.

Have a look at the chart and cross reference the keihin jets you have with their dynojet equivalent to see if you've gone too big in size. As said the numbers are different sizes between dynojet, keihin and mikuni.

Some of the subframes were prone to cracking, were they not?

As to not revving cleanly from idle to 4000 revs? The carbs would be getting their fuel from the slow circuit at this range. The main jet would barely be picking up the transition from the slow jet leaning off at 4000 revs. I'd start with screwing in the mixture screws untill lightly seated and turn back out to spec on the manual and see does it kill the stutter. No harm stripping down the carbs though for an inspection, clean and re calibration just to be sure all o-rings, jets and needles are in good nick.

And after you put the fork oil in, don't forget to pump the damper rod a few goes to get the air out. You don't want the forks to be rock solid.

Have you set the mixture screws and float heights to base settings? Still sounds carb/fuel related to me.

To a point, it's more that it levels out the two banks of carbs. I've been using a super-duper led Vacuummate carb balancer for years and can see what happens when you balance the middle screw the first time. Now 1 and 2 will out of balance and the same with 3 and 4. You have to go back and repeat balancing the screws till you manage to fine tune the balance. I usually do it 3 times to get bang on. If I'm rebuilding carbs I always screw out all the balancing screws till they just about touching their base plates. Then when I go to balance I start with number 1+2 screw (base side) and the 3=4 screw then middle screw. By loosening the screws to start with, you know you can only go clockwise to have an affect on you reading. It saves a lot of going turning back and forth with a screwdriver not knowing whats doing what.

Try @Danm54, He's the man to talk to.

But when you study the side pics of the motor in the frame, it's a well tight fit. Getting your mounting points off a few mill will change the angle the engine sits and fowl something. I don't think that you could squeeze in a pencil between the head and front frame rails (or the filters and side rails for that matter). Harder than it looks. Different story when your balancing a motor against your knee attempting to break your back getting a verniers under the motor.

The engineering was done by the Cross Brothers (07778 589209) Might be no harm giving them a bell to see if they still have he mounting templates on file somewhere.

Is Heatz a fella called Matt @Duckndive? The link below might be of interest to @Hayabuser. http://www.flat-out.com/post/TEN-TEN-GOOD-BUDDY

A lot of Jap market Suzuki's are restricted in 4th and 5th gear rev range. The CDI gets a resistance value from the gear sensor and starts lowering the rev limiter in 4 and 5 to stop you breaking the Japanese speed limit. (1st, 2nd and 3rd full rev limit) I was working on a Jap market bandit 750 last year. From what I remember, there was a pink wire from the gear sensor going to the CDI. I had to solder in 1.5k ohm resistor on the pink wire just before the CDI. It tricks the CDI in to thinking its in 3rd gear (1.5k ohm value) so that you have the full rev range. As said there are a few other ways of restriction, think another one was something to do with a wire inside the clocks i.i.r.c.

Just measured one on a bandit 12 I'm putting together. The rod I have is 80mm long.

Yeah, 750 J, k and L and 1100 K and L are the same bolt spacing. The 750 mirrors have shorter arms than the 11 items though. M and N models have a narrower 30mm spacing.

Pervert!

Nope. The LSL bracket is designed for (750mm long) drag or straight bars positioned about an inch above the top yoke nut. The bars don't fowl the forks in any way. A pic tells a thousand words, here's my LSL slingshot bracket.

Sure you don't have the cover on back to front? Failing that it could be a 600/750 cover. They look the same as 11's but are different shape where it clears the cam chain. Stick up a pic!

She sounds like a keeper.

Nice bikes. Any more details on the tubeless spoked wheels?

Looks like a well braced frame. Nice work. Any ideas for the tank yet?

Any bigger photos? Can't find a magnifying glass anywhere.