Blue
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Everything posted by Blue
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Ok thanks, I was just looking at wiring diagram & I saw that the slabby has 8 wire cdi & later has 7 wires. When I wired up the bike I copied the slabby diagram
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So a previous owner has used a 1052 rotor then? Is this setup ok? The Dyno man said he thought there is an electrical problem, like a switch going on & off real fast could this be the problem? I haven’t noticed it whilst riding though
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A1 no idea. A2 it was there but it’s dissapeared, not sure if it fell out as cover was replaced loose whilst I pushed bike home. Can I use this lot from B12 mk2
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Set out to a bike meet I’ve heard about, which is about 20 miles away. After about 1.25 miles the bike suddenly cut out then back fired, I clutched in & rolled to a stop. Checked fuel hoses not crinked, tried to start but no go! Checked fuses but none blown! For some reason I thought I’d take right side engine cover off as I always carry an Allen key in my leathers, I found this- so I had to push it back home! Q1 will timing etc be ok? Q2 which model rotors fit my 1127? Q3 what’s inside the hole at the bottom?
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Cheers son in law bought it Un seen & delivered from shop, it’d had a after market silencer fitted. Noticed it wasn’t very nice to ride slow around town. Spoke to shop they said take it locally to shop they said “We’ve Overhauled carbs twice Returned everything to standard except for the exhaust The jets were size 60 which baffled them so they put them to standard (100) and it ran alot worse Adjusted needle valve positions Adjusted air screws in line with needle valve and jets New spark plugs twice New balance bungs within the carbs Adjusted CV JetsNone of the above cured the issue and in most instances made it run worse” Which didn’t make any sense to me! Shop offered him his money back so he’s opted for that which is a shame as he likes the bike more than the race bikes he’s had previously, it was a nice bike, & I’d like to have known what it was that was the problem!
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Can anyone tell me what standard main jets are in a 2004 blandit 1200?
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What’s the advantage of a steering damper?
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Ok thanks, that groove has gone in places & o ring vanished. Surprised it never leaked! Anyone know if another tap will fit with 35mm hole spacing?
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Got b12 sump on mine but buggered if I can remember what’s changed inside. I think it’s the strainer & oil pick up
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I’ve relocated my standard type battery under the tank, but the alloy box that it sits in obscures where the individual filters need to go.
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Anyone relocated their battery? Where have you moved it to?
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So leave it as is but just add 1 wire from + to which wire on the coil? & should I leave that wire in place on the coil?
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No, standard coils. I’m referring to the modification here - https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/tag/charging-system
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Whilst I was on the Dyno the bloke said “he thinks I have an electrical issue, it’s like something going on & off really fast, it’s as if the plugs can’t cope”. I’ve fitted a relay to help protect the battery could that be the cause?
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& the o ring on the bottom of the slides, just replaced all my o rings & float gaskets using https://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GSXR750_91_M.html I was shocked how bad they were, good job my Dyno got cancelled
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Stripped carbs replaced all the ‘O’ rings & set float levels, now all running within 10deg
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I’ve turned the air screws out another half turn to 3 & fitted the filters & that seems to have improved it
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38mm carbs, 150 mains, no filters & the little widget in the carbs to hold the needle straight. Bike starts up lovely with choke when cold & without when warm, ticks over fine & will rev when you twist the throttle on & off but if you twist the throttle past half way it don’t like it& back fires too! Would that be needle position? If so do I need to move the clip down 1 or up 1? look/listen here -
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What numbers you got on your rubbers & do they run in numerical order from left to right?