stellafella

Agree with the recommendation for Saunders, used them a few times and they're very helpful

Use a 14 mm hex bolt with two nuts locked together farther up the thread , then a socket onto the nuts.

Correct for my 'M' slingshot. Small separate light above the main lights and both high and low beam work together via relays

I get my carb parts from Allen's performance in Nottingham. Good service and helpful

Are there hose springs on the hose mate ,one of my lines pinched on my slingshot, put the springs back on and sorted it straight away. Just give them more form and stops them nipping closed.

Had something similar with my slabby recently, similar to you, get to a certain revs and lost the tacho and pops and farts. traced it to the wires going to the coil pack, terminal connector had opened and it was lose on the spade on the coilpack, I just squashed it back together with pylers to get it tight again. glad you got it sorted

I trimmed the mounting lugs for the barrel on the top yoke, moving it up mate

I've got 91 750 m front on mine , slingshot wheels, and a sus linkage from funkymonk Mark Works nice

have you swapped it with the working coil on the bike ?

I used a caustic soda wash for a minute or two on a bit at a time, then wash off with plenty fresh water, then scotch pad, takes the anodising pretty good .

Yup, rode it through winter last and my slingshot this winter. Wash down every week or so and gt85 it again.

Took the anodising off my slab and slingshot and scotch padded it using gt85. Real ball ache to rub the anodising off but worth it.

My mistake with the part number mate, this is the part that I used to stop my headlight moving around, bought 2 but only replaced the one. What I found was one section of the socket had broken causing it to move about

part 35155-04A00 only about a fiver

Replace the plastic socket, they are still available. same happened to mine