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What Tony said , All choke no throttle , once it runs with no choke good to go .

no one really warms a bike/car up these days, what i do is wheel the bike out, full choke to start and when fired up i knock the choke half way back, then throw my lid and gloves on, then get on the bike and knock the choke nearly all the way off, into gear and set off, when on the road choke all the way off. but don't hit the rev limiter till up to full working temp when where the valve last checked ? if you don't know then worth doing them.

Thanks Andy, yes real nice to ride something old. Brakes take a bit of adjusting to compared to modern bikes, but handles surprisingly well for a 40 year old bike

Hi there, new member here,I have recently purchased a Gsxr 750m 1992 model, I'm just wondering if anyone could possibly offer me any information on how the best way is to warm the engine up, I.e from a cold start, also how long can they sit idling for say in traffic etc. Can they get too hot. And lastly I'm thinking about getting a valve clearance inspection the bike has covered 42,000 miles. What's your take on a valve clearance check. . Best regards.

Yes worked fine, needs to be away from the turbo but not too close to the end of the exhaust.

Cool, that was the style of final exhaust I'm going for. Guess it works ok there for you for dyno tuning?

Not a Turbo but i put it in the link pipe on the supercharged Zuma Its does throw up E8 error code "sensor overheat" after a few mins but i put that down to the ting tong sensor As i never got them in a similar place with a genuine Bosch one

Its both LOL! The body face has brass pads that a pin in the shift drum rotates over - usually 5 or 6 big pads + 1 small one for neutral. Depending on the sophistication and signal output to the CDI/ECU there will be different resistance values on the output wire dependant on what gear the shift drum pin is touching. Obviously the switch has to have the correct pattern to match the rotation of the shift drum - I wasn't aware of any difference until recently (if a difference actually exists?) and of course the resistance values have to match what the ignition is looking for or not, if you are trying to defeat it! If a bump changed the behaviour of the ignition I'd guess the sh. drum pin was barely making contact on an un-restricted portion and the bump moved it into 'restricted mode' position ? ? ?

I have one on the Harris just for dyno runs.

Cheers. Yes, with gauge. Not going to be permanently mounted, just for tuning purposes. Then will fit stubby style exhaust exit. I have a few exhaust flanges laser cut to hand to make variations which is handy.

Ok, thanks. Thought too close to headers would be too hot. Plan on making a longer exhaust outlet for setting up and set sensor bung around 300mm from turbo exit and extend the exhaust quite a distance past that point.

Depends if you want it permanently mounted or not, with or without a gauge? NEVER before the turbo - back pressure and heat will kill it in short order! As close to the turbo outlet is ideal ie. try to get at least 12" / 300mm upstream of the exhaust end outlet. If not a permanent fixture, the sensor can be shoved up the pipe, wrapped in foil just for tuning sessions then removed for use - not ideal but it works ok!

sensors on the runners will die immediately. Did that a long time ago just before turbo: doesnt work. On the dumppipe the reading will likely be off because its too close to outside air. Seems to me WOT would be ok because of the massive airflow, but idle and cruising will be off. No experience myself, just parrotting what other say. Longer pipe without muffler could be a good option for testing.

Unlike a lot of the world, UK registrations are linked to the Chassis Plate # when 1st registration made and stay with the vehicle for life until scrapped, exported or owner wants a 'personalised' registration like, say RR 1 on a Rolls Royce - that reg # would cost an absolute fortune if it was to come up for sale! So, the tea leafs nick a car but obviously can't sell it with no paperwork so they obtain a V5 rego document for something similar or something that is beyond reasonable repair and transfer its 'identity / chassis # / reg plate' onto the nicked car. Now you have a 'clean / legit' car that can be sold although it isn't what it started life as! V5 sales were rife 5-10 years ago - actually illegal in itself - but included a bit of the original vehicle or a pile of rust . . . . . for restoration or usually making stolen cars, seemingly legit! harder these days as DVLA have eventually got wise and ask for a lot of documentary evidence to re-issue 'dormant' V5's to new owners!

This is how I did it & it works 100% although not the cheapest way to get a GPI installed: The above part number is a 36mm switch & fits but it is designed for a selector drum that rotates the opposite way to the GSX1100 & it has no reistor fitted for what is now the 3rd gear position. I opened it up & soldered in a 15kohm resistor as in the pic & then fitted a Healtech GIpro from a DRZ400 that uses the same selector drum rotation direction as the GSX. There's a bit of wire relocation involved which I'm happy to share if anyone wants to go down the same route but the GPI works instantly & accurately.

I guess you don't live in the UK. Google 'car cloning uk' or similar. There will be hours of fun reading on offer, not.

Where are people placing their sensors on their blow through setups? I have a short exhaust exit from turbo so not really ideal placement. Putting a port on the downpipes could be an option but will look a little unsightly when plugged after setup and may be a little hot on the downpipes. I suppose I could make a longer exhaust outlet purely for setup. May have just answered my own question...

Thanks Toecutter, after a little messing around the carbs appear to be behaving apart from tickover which hopefully a session balancing will correct, if not I will get back to you

And how do you get a matching license plate? And the right paperwork?

Im working at the mo so no time to dig out pics or explain, but a quick google search has thrown up this, yeah its a 400 but i presume the principle is the same - http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42767

I haven't seen the switch on or off the bike so I don't understand how it functions. Is it based on resistance or something. Or is there a part that turns

As far as i remember the one i worked on had the modified neutral switch i to make the bike think it never got past 3rd gear, sounds like yours is the same.

If playing with carbs its likely the tank is off so looking down the wells should be easy enough + dark enough to see flame colour better? IMO the only engine they made sense with, was the original Mini's - plugs at front, directly behind the bonnet!

As long as pressure is high enough to fill the bowl its ok. tis not like efi where fuel pressure directly influences amount of fuel injected. In baron's case maybe the spot on the plenum was unlucky so he has pulsing problems. I did it before, worked fine. Converted to efi as well and like it a lot, although I have to say it also has its challenges.

Weird I didnt have that. Anyway you could make a separate pitot for fpu. Best that nothing interferes with the carbs dynamic pressure.