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No worries, I'll grab me box tomorrow and go through and let you know what I have.

Part filled the tank which has been empty for some time and noticed a slow leak coming from the tap area and dripping down onto the engine, the o ring was new when last fitted 2 or 3 years ago and still feels good, do the screws need sealing as maybe the petrol could leak via the threads ??

If you could have a look that would be great, could also be interested in any parts you have that could help out

A few internal differences, but externally? Not a lot!

1100F "Powerscreem Motor" Has Helical Primary Drive Gears ...

I've got a b12 engine in my gsxf. The only thing I had to change was the engine breather on top of the cam cover and put the skimmer gsx750f one on. Running standard b12 carbs but with K&N dual pod filters. All in my build thread gsx1100f hellcat

All the oil boiler engine are basically the same, dimensionally. All will fit the big Teapot frame. Only difference between engines may be carb orientation. And, if not fitting a Teapot 1100 motor, there’s the Airbox problem, unless fitting pods.

On here some time ago you mentioned : (RWHP) Stock : 98 Sport can, KN, dyno kit : 107 Above with 750 '89 cams : 118 Above with DOT head and full akra : 133

Away to pick up a tidy looking 1990 gsx1100f rolling chassis minus engine and loom and exhaust getting it for £200 thinking of building myself a cheap touring bike with it just wondering what engines will fit straight in? I'm thinking gsxr1100, bandit 1200 and obviously gsx1100f are these engines a straight fit or is the gsx1100f engine different in any way.

their on fleabay... the just screw in to the oil gallery in the engine... course it depends what model of GS you have

Yes

I got mine on fleabay.. is it something like this your looking for??

Any one know where I can get suchm this is for a GS Thanks Scott

My bad I’ll fix it

You are gonna be in trouble - there is no such thing as a 600 Katana! RTFR's

First post, Hi all, so I happened to pickup a seized GSX600F engine for $50, and I’m in the middle of doing a rebuild. So far everything has been going great, found out engine seized because of a stuck gear in the starter assembly, and I’m currently waiting for a good deal on some 91 gsxr750 barrels and pistons/rods. With plans to eventually turbocharge it. But that’s not what I’m asking here. I’m planning on doing a small experiment by changing either the stock oil cooler over to a oil to water cooler, or trimming off some of the air cooling fins on the barrels to then create a box/passages that I can fill with coolant, then run a separate radiator, pump and overflow. This is all pretty much for s**ts and giggles but I thought it may be good to get some input, I’m not sure if either would be better or cooler but I don’t think it’s worth it to do both. What do yall think? Will I get better operating temps with an oil to water with a thermostat or should I water cool the barrels? Either way they should be beneficial when it’s boost time, but that’s for later, I still got more reading to do on this forum. Thank you posts from the last 2 decades XD and thanks for your input

Cool. Thanks @Arttu.

Those seem to be about 0.41mm and 0.46mm. Which sounds pretty much correct. I have been using 0.40/0.45mm for 80mm pistons.

Thanks @Gixer1460. Read it again slowly Can you confirm I have my calculation right please. 3.2" bore x 0.0050" = 0.0016" top ring. 3.2" bore x 0.0055" = 0.0018" second ring. Maths not my strong point. No maximum gap mentioned.

Thanks for the reply. Will try with this plumbing modification. How would you change pilots and needles? Mixtures are 2.5 turns out and idle AFR is 13.5 at 2k rpm. Needles are 3rd from top. Just tried without intercooler and AFR stays at 13 on WOT with 135 mainjets.

Google is your friend (sometimes) - and from the horses mouth! - https://www.mtceng.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/piston_kit_installation.pdf

Sidestand sorted, headlight issue sorted, stiff throttle lubed and returning freely, historic vehicle V5 back and ready to go. Just been too busy but £83 insurance to pay and we're going out.

Whole range AFR can't be fixed by changing the MJ alone! Both the pilots and the needles will need attention IMO. re the plumbing, I'd have 1 tee off the main line then split that with another tee to feed each pair of carbs - seems would be more equalised to me?

Fitting an MTC kit for a turbo on a Blandit. Can't seem to find a definite answer for ring gaps. Can anyone help who has experience with them maybe.