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philwright

By philwright
in Oil Cooled

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wsn03

wsn03

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

 

Overall had dyna coils play up when hot. 

 

That's another new one to me, i thought they were bullet proof, good to know(y)

wsn03

wsn03

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

Need to rubber mount them.had several fail. There mini coils seem good well so far they been good.

Not had a problem myself but I'll take your advice and rubber mount mine(y)

Gixer1460

Gixer1460

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

Need to rubber mount them.had several fail. There mini coils seem good well so far they been good.

That's a new one on me! If they are solid mount the whole coil will vibrate together with its mount and the frame, at whatever freq. Rubber mounting just changes the range where it vibrates on its own. I've used US made dyna coils from the 70's never a problem - it would seem Dyna outsourced their coils from Asia - these largely seem to experience the defects! Really - how difficult is it to wind some thick and thin copper wire round an iron core and mould resin round them? If the OEM's weren't so stupidly expensive they would be a 'top tip'!

jonny1bump

jonny1bump

Posted
Posted

I've rubber mounted two friends bike on cotton reels and they been good. Seems to stop them cracking. I stuck new grey coils on mine couple years ago it failed in absolutely no time at all and because I had not used bike by time realised, they were right on just wrong side of warranty so all dyna did was offer me decent price on new coils so now using there mini jobs.

wsn03

wsn03

Posted
Posted
On 11/4/2018 at 7:17 PM, jonny1bump said:

I've rubber mounted two friends bike on cotton reels and they been good. Seems to stop them cracking. I stuck new grey coils on mine couple years ago it failed in absolutely no time at all and because I had not used bike by time realised, they were right on just wrong side of warranty so all dyna did was offer me decent price on new coils so now using there mini jobs.

So Dyna have joined the stupid people by outsourcing their manufacture to somewhere shit...ffs why does no one learn?

My coils are from the mid 90s so I guess im ok

nopokewithoutsmoke

nopokewithoutsmoke

Posted
Posted

Dyna coils have been on the list of 'go faster stuff' for air/oil cooled Suzuki's for years but I've always wondered if anyone has actually done a proper comparison.

I think it was Pip Higham I spoke to about this years ago - I'm sure he reckoned that sorting wiring looms first to reduce voltage drops as much as possible was the first step before changing coils and ignition. I think he wrote some stuff for Superbike mag about this in the late 80's/early 90's....

Crass

Crass

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, billd said:

is all about £££££ and what the customer will pay

Problem is once your product gets a reputation for being shite no matter how cheap you've made it people soon walk.  Takes a long time to build up a good reputation but you can destroy it pretty quick.

  • Like 1
Buzuki

Buzuki

Posted
Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, nopokewithoutsmoke said:

Dyna coils have been on the list of 'go faster stuff' for air/oil cooled Suzuki's for years but I've always wondered if anyone has actually done a proper comparison.

I think it was Pip Higham I spoke to about this years ago - I'm sure he reckoned that sorting wiring looms first to reduce voltage drops as much as possible was the first step before changing coils and ignition. I think he wrote some stuff for Superbike mag about this in the late 80's/early 90's....

Have ho experience with Dyna-coils but I will try to explain some fail mechanism and remedies related to ignition coils and other elements inside of the ingnition system on oilcooled Suzuki engines ,

- When ingnition coil fail ? , usualy when secondary side (HV- high voltage side ) remain and run without of any proper load , than sparks do not discharge HV power on asociated pair of spark plugs but inside of the coil secondary side causing that coil to short  and fail

- What is the elements and values of that load by Suzuki secondary HV side ? , on the first place spark plugs than spark plugs caps and finaly High Voltage cables 

- Which elements fails and cause coil to fail ? , usually that is the load or RFI supressor resistor which can be found inside of each spark plug cap , value of that resistor is around 10-14 Kohm, my remedy is to on time change those resistors with plain copper solid piece of wire which have same diameter and  lenght as removed resistor ,

-but wait than coil have no any load/RFI resistor anymore ? , no since inside of each spark plug is inserted or buit in one resistor , for example standard spark plug NGK-JR9C have built in resistor with value of around 4-5 Kohm , that R leter on spark plug body is sign of spark plug with built in resistor , not sign for Racing or something else 

- about  High Voltage cables , standard Suzuki copper wire cable type is excelent ,only problem is that after many decades of use they become hard and not so handy to be removed or inserted ,

-What is the best and worst alternative ? , good alternative is any quality HV cable copper wire conductor type , bad alternative is any graphite based conductor type 

-and yes , when all listed elements are OK than standard Suzuki ingition coils is more than adequate , their quality is excelent .

Edited by Buzuki
  • Like 2
philwright

philwright

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Getting back to the original thread...I stripped the carbs off the bike again yesterday ready for my mate to take then for vapour blasting and all the pilot jets were blocked, pretty sure they were clear last time I had it apart a couple of weeks ago!...would explain the shit idle and low speed running,  is it customary to remove floats/jets /emulsion tubes and diaphragms when sending the carbs to be blasted or do I leave everything in situ?....ta.

wsn03

wsn03

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, philwright said:

Getting back to the original thread...I stripped the carbs off the bike again yesterday ready for my mate to take then for vapour blasting and all the pilot jets were blocked, pretty sure they were clear last time I had it apart a couple of weeks ago!...would explain the shit idle and low speed running,  is it customary to remove floats/jets /emulsion tubes and diaphragms when sending the carbs to be blasted or do I leave everything in situ?....ta.

I strongly advise a filter...plus use fuel marine preservative in petrol over winter

philwright

philwright

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

No point ultra sonic cleaning them you found fault. Looks like you need to clean everything up stream.

Now i'm getting really baffled...I recently fitted a brand new fuel tap cos the old one was goosed , the inside of the tank is shiny spotless with no sign of ANY rust anywhere, apart from fitting a pair of plastic inline fuel filters what else should I be cleaning?...now the carbs are off I will still get them sonic blasted ,wont do any harm...thanks.

nlovien

nlovien

Posted
Posted (edited)

obviously we don't know just how far the level of initial cleaning ref: the flow ports and jets was - - i'm suspecting you are maybe chasing your tail around the same issue - maybe getting partial success - noted you had observed blocked emulsion tube holes - for me that's a good sign you had more crude in more delicate places yet to be sorted

I don't bother with all this vapour blasting / ultrasonic cleaning stuff - sure makes things shiny but often doesn't get to the important bits - you can get the primary jet circuits clean and check they are flowing by stripping out the parts - a can of carb clean and by blocking off the various ports by finger - use an airline to confirm each port is clear - a few pointers

1) the idle air jets in the carb inlet - these can be a bugger to get out - the brass is soft and easy to damage - rather than risk this ( if they don't come out easy) then leave these in when cleaning

2) the 3 holes you see inside the carb outlet - confirm you can see daylight through them - -using the one carb that doesn't have adjustment as your base - use the throttle cam adjuster to bring the thorttle plate down to these holes - aim for the plate to divide one by half then balance each other carb to this - you'll be very close to carb balance with this as a starter

3) when you remove the idle screw - check their tips are still there and make sure you get the wee o-ring out - and check to see if a previous owner didn't - then refitted this screw jamming into the lost o-ring and blocking the idle circiut

4) and a common one that I didn't see mentioned ( maybe you have already checked ) - take a really good look at the top of the main needles and the exit of the emulsion tubes for any signs of wear / errosion

see them granny magnifying lenses commonly advertised in them mags that start appearing in the post around this time of yr - the ones yi hang around yir neck ? - bloomin good for this sort of thing - even better is an e-bay special cheap pair of loupes - great for this sort of thing

Edited by nlovien
philwright

philwright

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, nlovien said:

obviously we don't know just how far the level of initial cleaning ref: the flow ports and jets was - - i'm suspecting you are maybe chasing your tail around the same issue - maybe getting partial success - noted you had observed blocked emulsion tube holes - for me that's a good sign you had more crude in more delicate places yet to be sorted

 

Thanks, Emulsion tube holes were clear it was the pilot jets that were blocked.

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