Bazeque Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) Hey! I'm hoping the vast knowledge you guys share may be able to assist/help me. I will state now, mechanically, I'm really not the best (At least, on old school bikes ironically). I'm happy to get stuck in, and I learn very quickly, but my knowledge of motorbikes and fixing them as of the moment is rather lacklustre, hence me being here to ask a few questions! I do apologise for any stupid questions in advance (Just keen to learn more) I recently inherited a Suzuki GSX 1100 1980 ET from my Dad. He'd had it MOT'd about 8 years ago, put it in the garage and never used it since. We recently brought it out, took her up for repair where the head gasket was replaced, fork springs were too small so they were adjusted, a general overview/maintenance. The guy had the bike for a total of 30 work days (Not including weekends). Cost about £2k or so to all in all. He stripped the full top end and nothing nasty was found. MOT passed fine (Literally on Saturday) I rode her home Saturday, what a bloody ride. Absolutely in love. But, I noticed on my left foot there was oily residue which appeared to be leaking from the side cover. Feeling alongside the ridge, it was dry, then suddenly wet alongside the gasket there. (see picture) It seems like it's running down the various bolts there. Problem 1. I also noticed that once the engine had heated up enough, oil was dripping on the exhaust manifold from the head (causing smoke to appear because of how how the manifold was). (see pictures, with oil drip on the bolt itself) I was unsure whether this was due to the gunk not being cleared off from before and it leaking and the guy who had replaced it hadn't really cleaned the area around it. I've given this a wipe with a rag, but I'm still pretty sure I still see oil around the main nut here and/or feeling it, the consistency is that of new oil. But then, I'm really bloody unsure. On to the main issue. Yesterday, I put in the straight through baffle (My dad recommended I did) and didn't make any changes to anything else. Bike was running absolutely fine, no issues. Some guy cut me off, so I went to honk, realised how crappy it was and accidentally stalled the bike. No biggy. Went to re-start, and from that point onwards, the bike was 'boggy'. There's no other way I could describe it other than it felt 'laggy' - it didn't sound right, almost like it wasn't firing correctly. Accelerating took forever. The moment I came up to a roundabout and pulled the clutch in, she died on me. I tried to restart her, but no luck. Choke out etc. I tried starting her while accelerating, which worked, but then immediately died once then RPM hit idle (1-1.5k~). I was about a mile away, so managed to get her back to the garage, by constantly revving. Moment I pulled the clutch in, instantly died again. It was still consistently sounding, well, fucked. I tried starting her once she was at the garage, no dice. I let her cool for half an hour or so, tried once more with the choke out, started normally, didn't sound strange or anything at all. This morning, I whacked the other baffle back in (The original, non straight through one) - Started her, let her warm up. Was playing a bit when letting the choke in and dying, so let her warm up for longer than normal, pulled the choke in, no issues what so ever. Begin riding her, again, no issues. Get to a roundabout, pull the clutch in to kick down into first, instantly died, and then could no longer start her. Quite frankly, I'm really bloody lost. I'm trying to get hold of the mechanic that 'fixed' her for me initially, but during the meantime I was eager to get some other opinions/views. I'm happy to provide pictures/photos/further descriptions if needed. Thanks in advance! TLDR; 1.) Side cover? is leaking. 2.) Head gasket issue still happening? Oil appearing on head/dripping onto exhaust manifold. 3.) Loss of power once engine has been warmed up and accelerating. 4.) Bike dying with clutch pulled in once warmed up and riden for about 5~ minutes. Edited December 18, 2017 by Bazeque added TLDR Quote
Jonboy Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 Side casing oil leak could be 'O' ring on starter motor, head gasket leaking!! I would check it has actually been changed. I look at this picture and the crud on the cam cover doesnt look like it has been disturbed in a long while. And perhaps the leak is coming from one of the cylinder head nuts that has an 'O'ring on it. As regards your running issue, I would perhaps look at your carbs, if the bike has been stood for 8 years the carbs will certainly need a good look and possible overhaul. 2K!! that is alot of money to spend on a repair and still end up with an oil leak . I may be wrong...........but Quote
homer Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 That head must be there from the factory. I cant believe that has come off the cylinder. Did you get a reciepe from the engine guy? Headgasket seems to be original or painted usually aftermarket gaskets dont match your block colour. You should check under the cam cover... Quote
Fjbj40 Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 I looks like the individual that "changed the head gasket" has fucked you over! Looks like the head has not been removed from the crud on there. If he did have the head off then why were the head nut o-rings not changed? It is standard practice to change them if the nuts are disturbed. The stator gasket is an easy change. If it sat for 8 years then a carb rebuild is in order. Quote
Bazeque Posted December 18, 2017 Author Posted December 18, 2017 5 hours ago, Jonboy said: Side casing oil leak could be 'O' ring on starter motor, head gasket leaking!! I would check it has actually been changed. I look at this picture and the crud on the cam cover doesnt look like it has been disturbed in a long while. And perhaps the leak is coming from one of the cylinder head nuts that has an 'O'ring on it. As regards your running issue, I would perhaps look at your carbs, if the bike has been stood for 8 years the carbs will certainly need a good look and possible overhaul. 2K!! that is alot of money to spend on a repair and still end up with an oil leak . I may be wrong...........but 5 Here's a better photo for you of that. The head gasket has definitely been replaced, but yeah, the lower one (apologies, I don't know the correct terminology) ((Cam cover? gasket)) doesn't look like it has been touched. The top end was definitely taken off - Got this in progress picture of it as he was working on it. Quote
Bazeque Posted December 18, 2017 Author Posted December 18, 2017 3 hours ago, Fjbj40 said: I looks like the individual that "changed the head gasket" has fucked you over! Looks like the head has not been removed from the crud on there. If he did have the head off then why were the head nut o-rings not changed? It is standard practice to change them if the nuts are disturbed. The stator gasket is an easy change. If it sat for 8 years then a carb rebuild is in order. I posted another photo above. The head I'm pretty sure the gasket has been replaced? I'll grab some better photos tomorrow from the top/sides correctly Quote
Fjbj40 Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) I would pull the cyl head nuts (item 14) that have the o-rings (item17) if it's not leaking from the valve cover gasket. https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40398f8700230d8b4eb31/cylinder-head Get in there with some spray solvent to degrease, fire up bike and watch for leak. Edited December 18, 2017 by Fjbj40 1 Quote
coombehouse Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 Regarding the running problems, apart from the likelihood that carbs are full of old fuel residue, your 'mechanic' may have set the valve clearances too tight hence the hot running problems. 1 Quote
Madb Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 unless you have changed the front tyre on your bike since that pic off mechanic then i would say it's a different bike in pic he sent you. if ya spent 2k on fixing it, then i would have thought the carbs should have been ultra sonic cleaned aswell as the head! Quote
johnr Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 oil leak from head could be the o rings on the head nuts, they dont often get changed and leak often. but when youre on the road the airflow can blow the oil everywhere. so clean the engine off and degrease it all, replace the o rings and then check it again. your leak on your left side could well be oil from thee head nuts. engine dying could be the carbs needing a clean, but first of all, check that the air vent in the tank filler, cos if it gets blocked up, then as the bike uses fuel, the fuel flows out of the tank and if it cant pull in air through thee vent, it can crate an air lock that kills thee engine. 10 mins standing and its ok again. it can be infuriatingly tricky to pin down. if it does it again, turn the engine off, take your lid off and listen as you remove the fuel cap and listen for thee hiss as it pulls air into the tank. 2 Quote
Rene EFE Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 19 hours ago, Jonboy said: I may be wrong You're not 2 Quote
Fjbj40 Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 Ultimately, if $2K was spent on repairs, you should return it for warranty. Clearly they failed in their repair work! 1 Quote
Bazeque Posted December 19, 2017 Author Posted December 19, 2017 14 hours ago, Madb said: unless you have changed the front tyre on your bike since that pic off mechanic then i would say it's a different bike in pic he sent you. if ya spent 2k on fixing it, then i would have thought the carbs should have been ultra sonic cleaned aswell as the head! Tyres were replaced as the others were hard and weren't too maluable. The carbs were taken apart and fully cleaned, the K&N filters cleaned and re-oiled etc. Seals on the forks needed replacing, as well as the head bearing. Springs within the forks were also 35mm too short (my dad had bought them reconditioned a fair few years back) which was also replaced. New brake pads, new master cylinder for the front brake lever. It just appears they barely test rode it after repair. IE, they only rode it 6/8 miles. They reckon the reason she died on me is due to the way wiring was done initially. They'd put bullet connectors on, where as beforehand it was just twisted. They're saying it may be the alternator, but honestly, don't know if they're just chatting shit to me or not now. Quote
Madb Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 Best take it back and ask them to finish the repairs properly. it's your 2k and you defo deserve better workmanship! 2 Quote
Bazeque Posted December 19, 2017 Author Posted December 19, 2017 59 minutes ago, Madb said: Best take it back and ask them to finish the repairs properly. it's your 2k and you defo deserve better workmanship! Yeah, I've got it getting hard recovered back to them tomorrow to go back through her. I want to trust them (They have a ton of reviews, work on classic bikes all the time) but at the same point, they told me she was finished and then all this. I also don't get how they can remove the entire top end but not even give the cooling fins a wipe down? I appreciate everyones responses here though. I'll be sure to post a bunch of pictures beforehand, and once I get her returned. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 legally you have to give them a chance to fix everything, they said it's finished but it clearly is not. If their second attempt fails then you can ask money back or have it fixed elsewhere on their costs. 2 Quote
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