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Fitting bandit wheels to slingshot or vice versa. straight fit?


boilerdude

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Ok I have all that stuff. Just havent gone to try it yet.

I recently bought a 750L in so so condition. but it has these wheels Ive wanted for years now. In very decent shape. I'm thinking about selling the 750L back out there and keeping these wheels for a clean blandit build or my E 41003454-147-PM-chicane-drag-bike-wheels Suzuki-GSX-R-1100-Targa-Right-Rear.jpgThose are just google images to show the wheels. 

Edited by boilerdude
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20614633_10159401529720227_338547926_n.jpgthere's mine. Brought out of rural indianapolis area. The flatlands. Mulletville for sure. Painted with incorrectly placed gsxr750r "RR" logos which it is of course not. Mikuni rs38s on it but they are pissing out everywhere and corroded and the throttle is stiff as a rock. I'm going to probably have to scrap those for cvs before I can even street it. Oh it's a 7/11 btw. V710 serial on the motor. But it does leak out way too much oil to ride as well and the swap was done halfass with still the 1100 oil pan on there. resting against the exhaust... Tires are cracked. been sitting for years. Chain and sprockets. All that. The grips and some of the cables and bolts are tarnished and rusty and ugly up close. Inside the tank is fair... Bike does have legitimate 7000 miles but it was drag raced for a lot of them. Also it has fox twin clicker probably in need of service and very nice steering stabilizer attached to a slug of metal welded nicely onto the frame there. It's not entirely hopeless.

But most importantly the wheels are really really nice and straight and I really really wanted them. And now I have them.

Edited by boilerdude
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Is there a version with and without or is there something missing if I dont see one? Going to look now.

I didn't know about any cush drive discrepancy. I figured if it's on the bike and rolling it must be complete.

All I see is sprocket bolted to wheel...

Edited by boilerdude
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5 hours ago, boilerdude said:

how important is the cush drive? does it need a cush drive?

Had a few mates in the past that ran dymags without cush drives and they all had trouble with threads for the sprocket going slack. Most fitted helicoils or had to have the other  threaded inserts 

Edited by Fazz711
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59 minutes ago, Fazz711 said:

Had a few mates in the past that ran dymags without cush drives and they all had trouble with threads for the sprocket going slack. Most fitted helicoils or had to have the other  threaded inserts 

The solution is to have nylon inserts fitted into the sprocket that act as a cush drive. Spondon did this for me many moons ago on a race Dymag that came out of an FZ750 Superstock bike.

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There was a cushdrive available for  PM chicanes..... had 2 sets of wheels and one was without . If you have no cushdrive on yours , then you own race only wheels .....no problem for a race bike as the wheel is in and out several times  for tire / gear changes.... but for the stop and go of street riding....No cush is harder on the driveline.... I had a set on my turbo slingy and at some point on a 200+ kph pull ....  a couple of the spfocket bolts sheard off and locked the rear wheel  against the swingarm...... almost killed me. 

Edited by no class
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Is there a way to tell with the wheel on the bike?

seriously what kind of horse shit is that. off road only rated wheel. because "oh yea they kinda fall the fuck apart have fun with that". never thought to research that much about a wheel. my luck they are probably sans version.

Edited by boilerdude
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This is all I can find. Each of the sprocket mounting holes was pretty large ~25mm in diameter, into which was pressed a nylon insert with ~15mm hole in the middle. At the back of each insert was a top hat spacer, the outer diameter of which was about the same as the washers in the picture. The inside face of these fitted up against the wheel hub. The protruding part of the top hat went through the hole in the middle of the nylon insert. The hole in the middle of the top hat took the sprocket mounting bolt, 12mm. The washer bolted up tight and overlapped the edge of the nylon so it all clamped up tight. The sprocket rotation was damped a little by the nylon, not much but enough. The mounting bolts had to be loctitied in or they would come loose. Hope this helps.

IMGP0317.JPG

Edited by Dezza
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I am just going to leave these right here....

If my math is right that GSXR1000 6.00" rear wheel is 7 lbs lighter than stock GSXR1100 rear wheel.

Imagine how much lighter it would be if I polish that GSXR1000 rear wheel!!!! LOL

21055141_10203858452737398_4159019795649257380_o.jpg

21055840_10203858456657496_7587141754293674201_o.jpg

21122618_10203858457697522_9188165405847444210_o.jpg

Edited by SBK1000
Added text.
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