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Posted

I'm thinking the really hard work is complete now. Fitting the GT750 motor into the 750 Katana frame has been a bit more difficult and involved than I had anticipated. Jigging the frame and motor to get the sprocket and swingarm centres aligned and the chain run spot on was straightforward enough..............................

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getting the chain alignment right......

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 but this off-set the motor so that the r/h exhaust port was fouled by the frame downtube. We sparked-up the grinder to make room for the header pipe.....

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should fit now.........

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  • Like 6
Posted (edited)

we then pondered the best way to get the downtubes to clear the header pipes, without it looking too Heath-Robinson. This is what we came up with..........

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an early GT750 "J" frame off Eblag for £30, which we introduced to the trusty grinder..................

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then out with the old, and in with the new...........

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some heating and tweaking.........

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and that fits nicely.......

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the down tube required the same attention........

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and got it..........

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spot on (ish)..................

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tacked in place, awaiting final welding........

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Edited by garry55
  • Like 3
Posted

Had to wait until I had sourced a r/h front engine mounting plate before we could fit the other downtube.

After much heating / bending / tweaking, here's the r/h frame tube tacked in place............

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Using the GT750 cradle enabled us to use the standard engine mounts too - and another bonus is that the radiator mounts are already in place.

the rolling chassis with motor..........

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final welding and dressing of  welds next............

  • Like 5
  • 3 months later...
Posted

this is the final welding of the GT750 engine cradle tubes to the original Katana frame………….

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I have now decided that I don't like the look of the rear footrest brackets / silencer mounts so they are coming off next - more welding required now...............

 

  • Like 3
Posted

got a call today to say the rear footrest mount modifications were complete, so off I trots to Malton to collect the frame. The rear footrest and silencer mount have been removed, saving at least 10kgs of weight, and the front footrest mount triangulated so............

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much neater - much lighter. 

Back home in the garage, I fitted the front and rear ends then test-fitted a spare motor to see if all the newly attached engine mounts lined up................

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they did - perfectly :D Just the upper rear mounts to make now I can get the exact measurements for them.

Left-side footrest mount.........
  
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sits just right and well away from the rear shock line - result :D

and the exhaust ports.............

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clear of the frame tubes - just as Suzuki designed them to be.

  • Like 5
Posted

Nice project.

 

Tip; use a laser aligner to align/check the front and rear sprocket, it's the only way to do it right, you might think you it right, till you check it with a laser..

Clamp laser on the front sprocket.

 

When I rebuild my bike I aligned it with a piece of string, I thought I did a good job, turned out it was over a cm out.

Posted

when I was looking for a Sprint ST speedo, to compliment the Sprint ST front end (and make the wiring-in simpler) it turned out cheaper to buy a whole instrument console - only £40 plus postage off everyone's favourite auction site..........


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included in the comprehensive display of instrumentation is this dinky electronic time piece.....

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which I wanted to incorporate into the project - but where could I fit it without it looking like a cheap add-on..............?

here of course - into one of the accessory ports thoughtfully provided by Suzuki.......

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a bit of measuring and drilling of 2 holes to accomodate the hour and minute adjustment buttons and......

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it's in the r/h panel so at least I will be able to see it when the bike is at rest on it's sidestand  :D

 

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

the bottom shock mounts..........

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to be used to convert the mono-shocked TZR250 3MA swing arm to olde worlde twin shock spec.....

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So I set about locating the lower shock mounts onto the 3MA swing arm. The Gazi shocks that I purchased are 300mm between eye centres, adjustable to 310mm max. My ideal measurement is 330mm + adjustment, so the lower shock mounts would have to be moved nearer to the swing arm spindle.

First, I drilled a piece of flat bar with a 10mm hole (lower shock mounting bolt size) and a 12mm hole (top mounting stud size) at 330mm centres, then attached it to the top mounting and jacked-up the swing arm until the lower bracket sat flush on the arm, like so..........

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I then sized and fitted the correct bushes for the shock mountings - Gazi shock sets include 4 of each of 3 different-sized bushings - 10mm, 12mm and 13mm.

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with the swing arm still positioned at the 330mm height, I fitted the lower mountings to the shocks and attached them to the frame, thus.............

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ensuring both lower mountings were sat flush on the swingarm, I took the measurement, both sides, from the trailing edge of the mounting to the end of the swingarm box section - exactly 141mm both sides - result  :D

The swing arm was now ready for a trip to my welder.............

Edited by garry55
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

part of my "brief" for this project is to retain as many of the defining styling cues that made the original Katana's so different - and this includes keeping the instrument binnacle, usually replaced by Koso clocksets or the like.  So, having removed the internals from a (broken) set of Katana clocks, I set about fitting the Triumph speedo unit. Once mounted within the binnacle, it now required a new facia plate.

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to do this, you need the original facia plate and some Blue Tac.........

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a suitable material for the new facia (I used some Plasticard)......

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a pen............

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and a band saw helps too........

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re-attach template...........

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whiling filing away the night........

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out with the compass cutter.........

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just needs spraying and a couple of Katana decals and its done........

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Edited by garry55
  • Like 6
Posted (edited)

mounting the (Katana scooter!) 2T oil tank....

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which is (mostly) hidden by the Katana's original electrics plate.....

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on the left side. The right side required a bit more work.............

using the rear air filter section of a Katana 1100 airbox which has been attacked by a rampant hacksaw.......

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and the bit I need, fitted in place, but yet to be cleaned-up - this will disguise the 2T oil tank on the r/h side of the bike.......

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and help to retain the "standard Katana" look...........

Edited by garry55
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

been struggling to find a home for the battery, as it's usual place has been taken by the 2-stroke oil tank. But tonight, I had a Eureka moment, so it was out with the marker pen, drill and files..........

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just a bit of cutting and grinding to do on the underside of the swing arm to get the battery box to sit flush

  • Like 4
  • 1 month later...

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