t3rse Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Bandit fuel return...I've read people cutting off the overflow vent and using that but I would think having a long thin tube unsupported at the top would be asking for a vibration related stress fracture at some point...so what else are folks doing besides something hideous like plumbing a return to the top of the tank externally? Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I don't have a Bandit, but a GS1000, I needed to move the fuel tap because of different carbies, I built the return on the spot for fuel tap. Steel strip en welded a tube on 1 cm from the top off the tank. Fill tank with water, and the paint will be right during welding. Quote Link to comment
t3rse Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 Do you happen to have a picture? Quote Link to comment
Paulm Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 My ET tank has a similar idea,only on the opposite side. Quote Link to comment
t3rse Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 So both you guys just have a tube that runs up near the top of the tank and is only supported on the base? Quote Link to comment
Paulm Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 thats correct in my case,hole drilled in tank and return tube welded in Quote Link to comment
colinworth79 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I removed the fuel sender and used that plate to fit a return pipe . Pipe wants to be a bigger bore than the feed and end above the fuel level as not to cause any restriction . Any restriction in the return will cause a rise in fuel pressure and flood the carbs . Quote Link to comment
t3rse Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 So no one is concerned that you have a pipe sticking up into your tank which is only supported at the base? What size returns are you guys using? Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Mine has an extra fuel tap on the other side, originally installed for a nitrous bike. I have connected the fuel return to this. On my spare tank I have had a tube welded into the bottom that goes to the top of the tank with a bend in the top, this way the returning warm fuel is put above the fuel going to the pump. Cheers SRR Quote Link to comment
slingy1157 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I made an alloy block to replace the fuel tap with an alloy return pipe about 10mm in diam welded in that goes to just nearly touching the top of the tank. The end was then cut at 45 deg facing back to not spray fuel toeards the filler. This alloy block was then drilled and tapped on each side to take mini ball valves as fuel taps. Just a cork type gasket was used to seal the block to the tank. Works well Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 On 7/14/2016 at 8:17 AM, t3rse said: Do you happen to have a picture? Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 My first attempt for the fuel return I build at the spot where the float for the fuel gauge is mounted in the tank, but that went wrong... Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 On 7/14/2016 at 10:41 AM, t3rse said: So both you guys just have a tube that runs up near the top of the tank and is only supported on the base? Yes, I have it like that. You can weld on the tank without fucking up the paint, fill it completely with water, but be care full. Take a 5mm thick flat bar and weld that to the tank, this can be tricky because off the thin wall thickness of the tank. Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 On 7/14/2016 at 0:57 PM, t3rse said: So no one is concerned that you have a pipe sticking up into your tank which is only supported at the base? What size returns are you guys using? 10mm Quote Link to comment
t3rse Posted July 15, 2016 Author Share Posted July 15, 2016 That's quite large. Better safe than sorry I suppose. Quote Link to comment
t3rse Posted July 15, 2016 Author Share Posted July 15, 2016 Thanks for the tip on the water trick as well. This seems like a good idea to displace any latent fumes as well. I think I'm going to weld in a line at the base and tack it to the top near the overflow line, by drilling a hole up there and running a spot weld through. This will ease my mind having the tube supported on both ends to avoid a vibration related stress fracture on the line (which at worst case would cause a nasty rich condition, but fixing it would be next to impossible if it happened). Quote Link to comment
Reinhoud Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 (edited) If you get rust in the tank caused by the water, you can get it perfectly out with electrolysis. Don't try to get the rust out with washers or nuts, doesn't work, and it's a pain to get everything out, even with a magnet on a stick. Be aware, tank is made from thin sheet steel! Not sure how your welding skills are, may be have it done, preferably with TIG. If you're afraid for fatigue with your return, weld 4 or 5 mm thick flat bar on the bottom off the tank, and make it so you can bolt the return on. That will give it more strength. Edited July 15, 2016 by Reinhoud 1 Quote Link to comment
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