t3rse

Jesus! An no I/C or meth injection?

Where did you source that header?

Totally custom IC or did you modify a standard dimensioned one?

That's adorable. It has a nut rest.

In my opinion, bikes with steel frames shouldn't have fairings....

I laughed way too hard at this. I dig the bike though...

Excessively rich will pop too. Lean pops are very sharp, and rich pops are more of a gurgle.

What did you use for paint?

Where might one get the proper tool for the job?

This was my first assumption: forgot to hook up the vacuum line on the petcock... Try riding with the cap cap cracked open as well?

I run 89 in mine, with ethanol. It's fine. Does it warm up ok? Is it acting out when it's hot? Have you tried putting the petcock on reserve?

I've been told the MK2 are better because the slide guides won't wear out like the BSTs will. I also have both sets, including rubbers, but I've never bothered to fit the BSRs. Keep in mind the BSRs have 4 jets vs the 3 on BSTs.

I was on two of the old sites for a very long time, and now I have no post count and have to put in bullshit posts like this just to get my count back up high enough to buy shit.

That's pretty slick

I had a standalone on my old car called SDS which just has two magnets for the pickup, a high and low signal about 10 degrees before TDC seaparted 180* on the wheel. Two magnets was enough for batch firing. I assume with such low resolution you'd have to use hysteresis to calculate things...

With auto's, if you add a little oil to the bore and the compression numbers shoot up, then you know it's the rings and not some other problem like valves (could still be a cracked piston if one is flat).

I'd love to get some info on this thing.

I don't have specific advice for you, but in autos, we used this stuff called plastiguage: http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/ You put it in there in place of the bearing and torque it to spec, then take it apart and the squished piece tells you your tolerance.

Thanks for the tip on the water trick as well. This seems like a good idea to displace any latent fumes as well. I think I'm going to weld in a line at the base and tack it to the top near the overflow line, by drilling a hole up there and running a spot weld through. This will ease my mind having the tube supported on both ends to avoid a vibration related stress fracture on the line (which at worst case would cause a nasty rich condition, but fixing it would be next to impossible if it happened).

That's quite large. Better safe than sorry I suppose.

So no one is concerned that you have a pipe sticking up into your tank which is only supported at the base? What size returns are you guys using?

So both you guys just have a tube that runs up near the top of the tank and is only supported on the base?

Do you happen to have a picture?

Bandit fuel return...I've read people cutting off the overflow vent and using that but I would think having a long thin tube unsupported at the top would be asking for a vibration related stress fracture at some point...so what else are folks doing besides something hideous like plumbing a return to the top of the tank externally?

They are most definitely different. MK2 upper on my MK1 forks/lower triple..the stem looks like it's offset a few mm and the left fork is offset a bit more, probably close what the fella on the other forum said, abut 6mm. Based on that, I think you will indeed need a MK2 upper/lower triple if you want to use the MK2 forks. I will part with mine for a very fair price if you need them (with the stem removed). I can snap a pic if you like.