Bleeding Clutch !!!

[Gixerjonah]

A straight forward job of bleeding the clutch on my 1100M has me stumpped. All seems well at the lever but the pushrod just isnt disengaging the clutch. Ive had the slave cylinder apart n replaced the seal, bled it all through again, still no joy. the cylinder its self seems fine. Any suggestions ? Is  there a special method required ? Any help appreciated.

[ghostmonkey]

suffering from the same problem on my b12,new master cylinder and slave......thinking that maybe the slave piston was to far in the carrier before i added the dot 4 and bleed the system?????

[mick-ne]

If I have bleeding problems I use a big syringe and push fluid up from the slave cylinder upwards, backbleeding its called. I hope this helps.

[ghostmonkey]

To be honest I've never had problems bleeding,done plenty of brakes and clutches on other bikes, but this one is beating me,bike was laid up for about 7 years. Got new friction plates and steels as well.

Bike pulls away fine changes gear ok but under heavy braking as the revs get low with the clutch pulled in you can fell the clutch dragging

With the clutch cover of you can see the Plates in the clutch are only moving about 1 n half mm when I pull the lever 

[Peterrr]

I also had clutch and bleeding problems with my 1100M, mine also was dragging when it was in first gear with the clutch lever in.

I had took the slave cilinder apart and cleaned it with brake oil dot 4 and made sure I could move the piston back, and that the spring pushed it back again without getting stuck

Also cleaned the master, it was full of black sludge.

After cleaning, bled it again and the clutch was ok 

And my popup kat also has a fluid clutch, my slave cilinder got stuck, also because of black sludge and old oil, same trick did the job.

I replace the oil every 2 years

[Gixerjonah]

Given the master n slave cylinder a good clean with new seals in both, still no joy !!! The plates must be stuck, it hasnt run for quite a while. Once i get it fired up n the oil gets warm n circulates should they free up ? Will rocking it in gear get em released ?

[crainer]

They are a pain to bleed. I had same problem. Try back bleeding as already mentioned 

[Peterrr]

44 minutes ago, Gixerjonah said:

Given the master n slave cylinder a good clean with new seals in both, still no joy !!! The plates must be stuck, it hasnt run for quite a while. Once i get it fired up n the oil gets warm n circulates should they free up ? Will rocking it in gear get em released ?

If you did not fire it up yet, and it has stood still for quite some time I suggest new engine oil and turning the engine by hand a few times first before pressing the 'start' button.

[ghostmonkey]

Yeah they can get a bit sticky if stood for a while,as Peterr said new engine oil should do the job 

[Captain Chaos]

20 minutes ago, Peterrr said:

If you did not fire it up yet, and it has stood still for quite some time I suggest new engine oil and turning the engine by hand a few times first before pressing the 'start' button.

or hit the start buton with the spark plugs removed (and CDI unplugged). This will pump the oil around.

[Bandit31]

2 hours ago, captain chaos said:

or hit the start buton with the spark plugs removed (and CDI unplugged). This will pump the oil around.

why do you need to unplug the CDI ? Cheers.

[canamant]

CDI doesn't like it when there is nowhere for the big jolt to go to.  Could just lay the plugs on the head and allow them to spark.

 

[Bandit31]

59 minutes ago, canamant said:

CDI doesn't like it when there is nowhere for the big jolt to go to.  Could just lay the plugs on the head and allow them to spark.

 

Not sure why you would remove Ht lead, remove plugs then put Ht lead back on the plugs unless you were chicking for spark??? 

[Captain Chaos]

or you could unplug the pick-up coil. The idea is that the CDI does not receive any signal from the signal generator.

[Gixer1460]

or stop poncing around and bridge the starter soli with a big spanner!

[Captain Chaos]

13 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

or stop poncing around and bridge the starter soli with a big spanner!

yeah that's the easiest way.

[Matty B]

Have you tried bleeding the top banjo? Wrap line in a cloth (the more the better because she might squirt) Pump the lever a few times then hold down and slowly undo the banjo bolt.You should be able to tell straight away if there is air trapped.Repeat until you only get fluid. ***Wash it all down in soapy water when done***

[canamant]

On 2/17/2016 at 0:10 AM, Bandit31 said:

Not sure why you would remove Ht lead, remove plugs then put Ht lead back on the plugs unless you were chicking for spark??? 

TIf you turn the engine over but don't allow the HT spark from the ignition system to earth out somewhere (like jumping the plug gap to earth) then the CDI can get upset and keep its sparks inside the box forever.  The plugs would be removed to allow the engine to be spun over on the starter easiy to build up oli pressure and the plugs refitted to the HT leads to allow them to be earthed via the rocker cover.  Starting up an engine that has stood idle for a long time can damage bearing surfaces unless the engine is primed first.

[Matty B]

Curious as to why this clutch bleed query has turned into an ignition debate. Or did I miss something?

 

[Captain Chaos]

On 2016-02-16 at 0:21 PM, ghostmonkey said:

,bike was laid up for about 7 years. 

because this.

[Gixerjonah]

1 hour ago, captain chaos said:

because this.

Changed the oil,started her up,circulated the warm oil for a while put her in gear n got the wheel spinnin (on a stand !) then put the back brake on. Did this a few times and the plates freed up. Their still draggin a little but nowt a good run wont sort out. Thanks for the help.