Cheap Eblag lock sets , any good ?

[PaintItBlack]

My mk1 B12 ignition switch needs replacing, key can be removed with ignition switched on, and don’t even need a key , a screwdriver will do to switch it on, also I have a non locking gas cap which is quite fiddly to use,

a new full lock set of ignition switch, locking gas cap and seat lock can be found on Eblag for under 25 quid, much cheaper than buying used, but are they any good, anyone any experience with them ?

I’ve found not all cheap Chinese stuff is crap, but £25 seems very cheap 

https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/353688280073?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=NTXhao1RQEC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZc2CzMpTMO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Gixer1460]

Will probably be better than you have now but after a year? who knows! 12 month warranty - yeah right, try finding them after 12 months! Its cheap so what is there to loose.

[Enjoythesilence]

A lot of them don`t have the resistor built in to the switch.i would rather use a 2nd hand one personally

[PaintItBlack]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

Will probably be better than you have now but after a year? who knows! 12 month warranty - yeah right, try finding them after 12 months! Its cheap so what is there to loose.

Yeah, I’m sure that warranty isn’t worth jack , but as you say “it’s cheap”

think I’ll give it a go, will either be pleasantly surprised or my suspicion of too cheap to be any good will be confirmed 

[Duckndive]

1 hour ago, Enjoythesilence said:

A lot of them don`t have the resistor built in to the switch.i would rather use a 2nd hand one personally

For £25 and a matching lock set ... i'd quite happily add a 10p resistor into the loom  

[PaintItBlack]

So what’s this resistor then , that may or may not be present ?

what’s it’s function ? 
where does it go and is it much of an issue if it’s absent ?

[TonyGee]

i bought a cheap one for one of my bikes, it worked fine for a while and then it was intermittent, had to strip it and sort out the contacts under the barrel !!!  

[PaintItBlack]

Thanks for the feedback Tony, 

I’ve gone and ordered the cheap set now, hopefully it’ll all work ok 

[Duckndive]

1 hour ago, PaintItBlack said:

So what’s this resistor then , that may or may not be present ?

what’s it’s function ? 
where does it go and is it much of an issue if it’s absent ?

Not 100% sure but i think the ECU on a blandit needs to see a resistance or signal from the switch  otherwise no spark ..

i'm sure an Adult will give the proper answer soon  

[rodneya]

I have a china GSXR ignition switch on one of my bikes for over two years now and it works fine. Got it with some other parts I bought so I dont know what it cost originally, but it is definitely not oem

[Enjoythesilence]

On the back if you strip the ign switch down you will find the resistor that no one knows about. A security measure that the repair manuals do not cover. It measures 100 ohms and is in line in the power circuit to the ECU to stop hotwiring the bike.I have used 4pin gsxr ignitions wired up to blandit looms  by fitting a 100 ohm resistor into the ecu wiring a few times in the past.I`m no electrics expert,i found it all on the interweb ages ago.

[davecara]

I used a chinglish lockset on my old EFE and it worked fine, just wired the resistor inline with the earth on the cdi

[PaintItBlack]

I now have the answer to my question of whether those cheap Eblag lock sets are any good, and the answer is no , not really, they’re a bit crap, 

first the ignition switch, connected new switch, turned it on, nothing worked but the pilot light was on , even though it was switched off, hour or so with a multimeter and I’d worked out all the wires in the block connection were in the wrong place, moved them all to correct places and had everything working but no spark, two wires from new switch that should have continuity when switched on, had continuity when switched off instead, could have worked around this I think but had another idea , take the cylinder out of the new switch and swap it with the butchered one in the old switch, that’s working ok ,

the locking gas cap wouldn’t close, the bottom edge caught on the top edge of filler neck when trying to shut it, ground off the bottom edge of cap so that it would close, but then it wouldn’t lock shut and couldn’t remove the key, the locator that should lock in position under the filler neck was too high , filed the top of the locator down and now it shuts and locks , but feels a bit like it won’t be very durable.

seat lock I’m happy to report is working fine, the old one was working perfectly, only swapped it so I have everything working off the same key,

generally speaking all a bit crappy, not entirely surprised at 25 quid, but was hoping it would at least work straight out the box, think I may be swapping it all out again before long