PaintItBlack

Very nice

Thanks again, have ordered an o ring now (how does that little piece of rubber cost £30), so will be using it when I do the job

Thanks, Seems I was given duff info from sps

Thank you, and could you confirm that you are using the cometic fibre gasket, were you advised that the O ring wasn’t required, or did you just figure that the head gasket and a dab of liquid gasket would do the job, thanks

Yes I believe that’s correct, Can’t see why the O ring wouldn’t be used with the cometic fibre gasket, it’s just that I’ve been advised that it’s not used , could be the guy at sps was confusing the cometic and genuine Suzuki gaskets

Yeah I’m not convinced it’s right either, read the O ring wasn’t used with the cometic gasket somewhere, can’t remember where now, so when I ordered the gasket from Suzuki performance spares I asked if the O ring was needed, he didn’t know so went and asked someone else and they said it’s not used with that gasket, but he didn’t sound very positive, so I’m not convinced and still not certain

got to whip the head off my 1085BB GS1000, have recently heard the O ring isn’t required with the cometic fibre head gasket, is that correct, and could the fact that I fitted an O ring last time I had it apart be the reason why the head gasket never really sealed, and got progressively worse , pain in the arse as runs really well, but covers the engine and my jeans in oil every time I ride it

Try nrp carbs , can see a kit listed on there site but don’t seem to be able to link to it

My sprocket cover has been modified, I thought it was just a bit broken off, but now seems more likely it was done deliberately to accommodate the 17 tooth sprocket thank you all for your input, think I’ll go with the stock gearing and see how that works out

Now there’s no need for that sensible ish, relatively speaking

Yep, definitely 17, one of the pillars is missing from the sprocket cover, I assumed it had broken off somehow, but from what you say it was probably removed deliberately, starting to look like the stock gearing is probably not a bad compromise between hooliganism and sensible two up touring mode

Thanks for reply 80mph at 5k is about where my GS1000 sits, which seems about right bike will be used for a bit of everything, a and b Road fun , two up touring, think if I go stock 15-45 and get a 16 tooth gearbox sprocket as well then I’ll have enough to experiment with

When I bought my 1200 mk1 bandit a few months back the seller mentioned that he’d raised the gearing, for better cruising, I only did around 300 miles on the bike before pulling it all apart for a few mods, the gearing didn’t seem excessively tall, having now checked what gearing it’s actually running, it’s fitted with 17 and 43 sprockets, I believe stock is 15-45, that seems quite a difference to me, is stock B12 gearing a bit on the low side ? didn’t seem to have much trouble pulling 17-43 gearing, but thinking it’s maybe too much, whilst the bike is all in pieces seems a good time to swap sprockets

I like this stuff https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/110850693173?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ahXJtymiTH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZc2CzMpTMO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY it’s what I used on my GS1000 and what I’ll be using on my B12 engine, not the cheapest option, but good stuff

Guard is from Eblag, seller is causeway-316, handmade from 3mm aluminium, very nice quality and not too expensive at £57 hoping he can make me a rear guard to match, but he’s not very good at answering enquiries https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/285078956397?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=mGr9XoHKQzm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ZZc2CzMpTMO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Worth a go I suppose, spent the afternoon fitting the new kit, but if I can swap the old needles for new

Just as I was reading your reply the postie turned up with my new dynojet kit , now I’ve compared the needles I can see the needles that I removed are dynojet needles, with additional notches that someone added for some reason, can also see the springs that came with the kit are the same as the ones already fitted , so would seem somewhere in this bikes murky past, someone fitted a dynojet kit , the guy I bought the bike from thought it was running rich, and said he’d given the carbs an ultrasonic bath, and they are very clean, but he didn’t say anything about a dynojet kit, so guess he didn’t fit it, seems I got some spares now then

Trying to understand why my Mk1 B12 runs so rich, only did a couple of hundred miles on my newly acquired bandit before I started to pull it apart to modify it, before I pulled it apart I rigged up my air/fuel gauge, just to see what it was saying, very rich , 10.5:1, from as soon as I touched the throttle up to over 100mph, then leaned off a bit 11.5:1 after that, still very rich, bike was running stock airbox with k&n filter, noisy end can was expecting to find worn needle jets, but they look good, main jet fitted is 100, stock is 102.5 needle clips were in second groove down,4th is stock can’t see any numbers on the needles, and they have some notches just below the grooves which don’t look stock, the notches vary slightly from one needle to another as though someone filed them in by hand, also six grooves , is that stock, thought stock only had five ? have a stage 3 dynojet kit on order, so will be swapping needles and jets soon, just trying to confirm I don’t have other carb problems that need addressing first

I’m just in the process of fabricating a couple of brackets to fit an alloy mudguard to my mk1 bandit, Quite simple really couple of pics

Yes, agreed The studs were quite damaged from the pipe wrench, but in my case I had no intention to reuse them, and all other methods of trying to get them out had failed, it was a last resort

I found a pipe wrench worked for me when I was doing my gs thou,

Running that rich at idle makes me think the air passages in the mouth of the carb could be blocked, or possibly a previous owner fitted air correctors in them, to run pods , do you have the airbox fitted ? the very fine tips on the fuel screws , the ones that fit underneath the carbs can break off , causing problems, but you say you replaced them

Thanks, feeling a lot more confident about not using the airbox, Twin pods had been my plan from the start ,but a few threads from guys that couldn’t sort their jetting had me questioning that decision

Thanks, I’ll give that a go before splashing out on a dynojet kit, I’ve got a similar exhaust setup to you, so could be pretty close, long way off setting up the carbs yet though, but knowing it should run well without the airbox is a big help