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TurboGS and Bruteforce are back


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Posted
1 hour ago, bruteforce said:

still considering EFi but not sure it will bring me more than a good set of carbs will.

With a turbo? it makes a considerable difference both tunability and engine response / flexibility.

Posted
6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

With a turbo? it makes a considerable difference both tunability and engine response / flexibility.

I know. But it already will make 250bhp which is quite enough for this lightweight roadbike, and throttle response does NOT need to be hairtrigger fast. I like it like this, it is relatively simple and robust and EFi would cost about €1000,- all-in with no real benefits.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

First decent day to ride, still cold but dry. Perfect time to run in the rebuilt motor! Only 7psi but it already pulls hard.

5EB9F1E3-168D-433F-9FE8-9EA460572E65_zps

06030DD2-ABD1-48E2-B27E-A5662B0DE492_zps

I'm happy with the crank-end fitted scavenging pump, touching the starter button lets the oillight go out immedeatly.

 

 

  • Like 7
Posted

Still fiddling a bit, wasn't idling well, lots of popping and revs unstable when hot so airscrews turned in a bit. Better now, needs a 4 gas meter to be exact. My buddy has one so will get sorted. Still some oil coming from the compressor housing as I had it overflowed several times before when the scavenging pump wasn't working properly.

Also feel that throttle response could be better, dropping down revs is sluggish so may try to fit other slides with bigger ventholes I've stored from another set of carbs.

 

When I built it I geared it for 200mph, silly I know so need to rummage around in the workshop to find that brand new one-tooth-smaller front sprocket. First gear is very tall now, I'm afraid this will leave me behind at the traffic lights with a stalled engine whenever a light 600 challenges me :) 

Posted (edited)

So, checked carbslides and they're already double-drilled with large holes. That can't be the problem then. So went off to my mates house for the 4-gas analyser, and waddayaknow- I adjusted the airscrews the wrong way. It was way rich (really toxic fumes- I mean actually getting sick just standing next to it outside) :stop: Now by turning them open 4 turns (in total) the CO and NOX values are within reason and it idles and picks up smooooth! Still rough in transition so very frightened to have it lean running. Coming week= Dyno time!

 

By the way: Still frost-fingery cold to ride...

Edited by bruteforce
  • Like 2
Posted

Just ordered an AFR onboard meter, don't know why I didn't buy one years ago. Now we do all the testing and adjusting on the dyno which is time consuming. Goal is to get it about right on the road then see what a full-on dyno test will do.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, bruteforce said:

Just ordered an AFR onboard meter, don't know why I didn't buy one years ago. Now we do all the testing and adjusting on the dyno which is time consuming. Goal is to get it about right on the road then see what a full-on dyno test will do.

Glad you finally listen lol

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 15-3-2016 at 9:03 AM, Leblowski said:

Innovate MTX-L  AFR meter, just came in today, will fit electricery tomorrow and see if I can get the sensor bung welded in at my local shop.

Edited by bruteforce
Posted
1 hour ago, bruteforce said:

It was not Leblowski, dunno why it says so

 

Well mentioned it to you multiple times in the past few years .... So much easier to tune a bike instead of going on a dyno just for tuning

 

but hey it wasnt me lol

Posted

Thanks guys!

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I've fitted the AFR meter but waiting on automotive connector to power it up. It  looks so nice I'm ordering the same look boostmeter/shiftlight too, to replace the low-tech analog boostmeter.

Posted (edited)
On 23-3-2016 at 10:38 PM, Leblowski said:

Well mentioned it to you multiple times in the past few years .... So much easier to tune a bike instead of going on a dyno just for tuning

 

but hey it wasnt me lol

I don't agree Sander. Nothing beats standing next to a bike that is giving all it's got while the only thing you need to do is keep an eye on the numbers and graphs on the screen. When it doesn't break on a dyno it's unlikely to break on the road. Ofcourse I'm lucky to have unlimited access to a dyno!

I just need an AFR meter so I can see what's going on before going to the dyno, and as a safety measure ofcourse.

Edited by bruteforce
Posted

AFR gauges are pretty dam indispensable but what really makes them awesome is data logging. Take a few hours running around and put it all on a scatter plot. Or take the machine to a dyno and look at the results when you're home or even better take half a dozen 1/4 mile runs at red line make some changes and go again. On board data logging is like having a dyno under your seat.

Posted
10 hours ago, bruteforce said:

I don't agree Sander. Nothing beats standing next to a bike that is giving all it's got while the only thing you need to do is keep an eye on the numbers and graphs on the screen. When it doesn't break on a dyno it's unlikely to break on the road. Ofcourse I'm lucky to have unlimited access to a dyno!

I just need an AFR meter so I can see what's going on before going to the dyno, and as a safety measure ofcourse.

I have the privilige to log and tune with a tablet but no unlimited acces to dynos.

Till this day all my bikes where tuned on the road dyno only used to check if its correct and how much horsies the bike had.

Afr gauche is really handy in fact you dont need a dyno anymore when you have one.

but yeah with unlimited dyno acces its a diff ballpark

Posted (edited)

Stainless bung welded in today, sensor fitted, now need to wire all in. I got sent a set with an 8ft cable while the 3ft was ordered and would have been sufficient.... o.O

 

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Edited by bruteforce
Posted (edited)

Allright, it works so time for some testing.

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Went from 110 to 122DJ, still too lean. I'd also fitted slides with small holes but now the motor won't rev out so I'm guessing the slides don't rise. So back to the slides with two big holes and new 136DJ mains. Now it pulls like a train at 11-12 AFR on boost. The engines' response with the new 8.7:1 CR and proper squish is much better and it wants to wheelie all the time. On this wheelbase, my seat-of-the-pants dynamometer says it produces about 200 RWHP (7 psi).

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Then I do a quick pop down to the shops (yes I'm a poser :pimp:) and notice a different kind of noise from the motor...

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Finally the mild steel header has given in. Well it would be impossible that there wouldn't be anything to do on the bike at all right?

Edited by bruteforce
  • Like 3
Posted

What do you consider proper squish?

 Powerscreens carbs tend to leak between the slide and the diafragm, had trouble with them too.

Your bike seems to require pretty big mains, I'm running 4 x 112.5 (stock =2x 112.5 & 2x110) for the same A/F ratio, must be a pitot set-up thing?

(No criticism here pleae don't read it like that, just curious and like to compare,  turbomaatje :) )

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