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TurboGS and Bruteforce are back


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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

With a turbo? it makes a considerable difference both tunability and engine response / flexibility.

I know. But it already will make 250bhp which is quite enough for this lightweight roadbike, and throttle response does NOT need to be hairtrigger fast. I like it like this, it is relatively simple and robust and EFi would cost about €1000,- all-in with no real benefits.

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  • 1 month later...

Still fiddling a bit, wasn't idling well, lots of popping and revs unstable when hot so airscrews turned in a bit. Better now, needs a 4 gas meter to be exact. My buddy has one so will get sorted. Still some oil coming from the compressor housing as I had it overflowed several times before when the scavenging pump wasn't working properly.

Also feel that throttle response could be better, dropping down revs is sluggish so may try to fit other slides with bigger ventholes I've stored from another set of carbs.

 

When I built it I geared it for 200mph, silly I know so need to rummage around in the workshop to find that brand new one-tooth-smaller front sprocket. First gear is very tall now, I'm afraid this will leave me behind at the traffic lights with a stalled engine whenever a light 600 challenges me :) 

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So, checked carbslides and they're already double-drilled with large holes. That can't be the problem then. So went off to my mates house for the 4-gas analyser, and waddayaknow- I adjusted the airscrews the wrong way. It was way rich (really toxic fumes- I mean actually getting sick just standing next to it outside) :stop: Now by turning them open 4 turns (in total) the CO and NOX values are within reason and it idles and picks up smooooth! Still rough in transition so very frightened to have it lean running. Coming week= Dyno time!

 

By the way: Still frost-fingery cold to ride...

Edited by bruteforce
  • Like 2
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11 minutes ago, bruteforce said:

Just ordered an AFR onboard meter, don't know why I didn't buy one years ago. Now we do all the testing and adjusting on the dyno which is time consuming. Goal is to get it about right on the road then see what a full-on dyno test will do.

Glad you finally listen lol

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 23-3-2016 at 10:38 PM, Leblowski said:

Well mentioned it to you multiple times in the past few years .... So much easier to tune a bike instead of going on a dyno just for tuning

 

but hey it wasnt me lol

I don't agree Sander. Nothing beats standing next to a bike that is giving all it's got while the only thing you need to do is keep an eye on the numbers and graphs on the screen. When it doesn't break on a dyno it's unlikely to break on the road. Ofcourse I'm lucky to have unlimited access to a dyno!

I just need an AFR meter so I can see what's going on before going to the dyno, and as a safety measure ofcourse.

Edited by bruteforce
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AFR gauges are pretty dam indispensable but what really makes them awesome is data logging. Take a few hours running around and put it all on a scatter plot. Or take the machine to a dyno and look at the results when you're home or even better take half a dozen 1/4 mile runs at red line make some changes and go again. On board data logging is like having a dyno under your seat.

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10 hours ago, bruteforce said:

I don't agree Sander. Nothing beats standing next to a bike that is giving all it's got while the only thing you need to do is keep an eye on the numbers and graphs on the screen. When it doesn't break on a dyno it's unlikely to break on the road. Ofcourse I'm lucky to have unlimited access to a dyno!

I just need an AFR meter so I can see what's going on before going to the dyno, and as a safety measure ofcourse.

I have the privilige to log and tune with a tablet but no unlimited acces to dynos.

Till this day all my bikes where tuned on the road dyno only used to check if its correct and how much horsies the bike had.

Afr gauche is really handy in fact you dont need a dyno anymore when you have one.

but yeah with unlimited dyno acces its a diff ballpark

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Allright, it works so time for some testing.

07097D0C-7403-4F6E-A5AF-3BB696E5553D_zps

Went from 110 to 122DJ, still too lean. I'd also fitted slides with small holes but now the motor won't rev out so I'm guessing the slides don't rise. So back to the slides with two big holes and new 136DJ mains. Now it pulls like a train at 11-12 AFR on boost. The engines' response with the new 8.7:1 CR and proper squish is much better and it wants to wheelie all the time. On this wheelbase, my seat-of-the-pants dynamometer says it produces about 200 RWHP (7 psi).

DDA49EF0-4B08-4DAF-8EB4-71FB3EAAC6A0_zps

Then I do a quick pop down to the shops (yes I'm a poser :pimp:) and notice a different kind of noise from the motor...

5988D491-409D-4003-89C6-82397E40494E_zps

Finally the mild steel header has given in. Well it would be impossible that there wouldn't be anything to do on the bike at all right?

Edited by bruteforce
  • Like 3
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What do you consider proper squish?

 Powerscreens carbs tend to leak between the slide and the diafragm, had trouble with them too.

Your bike seems to require pretty big mains, I'm running 4 x 112.5 (stock =2x 112.5 & 2x110) for the same A/F ratio, must be a pitot set-up thing?

(No criticism here pleae don't read it like that, just curious and like to compare,  turbomaatje :) )

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