clivegto Posted September 28, 2023 Posted September 28, 2023 On 9/20/2023 at 12:56 PM, Joseph said: Well thats good 'cause i've scored the web and nobody has the size required (8x11.5x2.5) Centurion Motorcycle Projects might be the man to ask Quote
Joseph Posted September 28, 2023 Author Posted September 28, 2023 Thanks for the tip. I'll leave it for the time being, i'm hoping that if you haven't needed to address that part i may not have to Quote
Joseph Posted October 10, 2023 Author Posted October 10, 2023 (edited) A bit of an update. So, when i need lathe jobs, I have to spend money on a man because i don't have the tools or know how to machine parts, but he's delivered once again Alloy spigots for the intake pipes and plenum outlets : And the parts required for the caburettor conversion (spacers, mainly, because 2 and 3 carb need a big gap added), along with a nice little extended alloy T junction feed to fit with a brass spigot for the fuel feed : Finally, this little jobby to make up for the difference in height of the bandit rotor compared to the 14 rotor : So unless i've completely forgotten about some major aspect of how an engine works, this is all that is needed to convert a GSX 1400 to Bandit 1200 analog engine management ? I'll put it all together tomorrow, it's getting late now I'll probably arse something up if it start now Edited October 10, 2023 by Joseph 4 Quote
Joseph Posted October 10, 2023 Author Posted October 10, 2023 Out with the old : Spacer in : Rotor lined up : 4 Quote
Joseph Posted October 10, 2023 Author Posted October 10, 2023 Also pictured is the adjustable advance ignition plate i designed. Didn't invent the concept but it's come out super clean, adjustable +5 to -5 1 Quote
Joseph Posted October 11, 2023 Author Posted October 11, 2023 The rack got stretched Just a mock up build, i needed to see how long a tab i needed to weld onto the carb nº2 butterfly control, because as you can see it way out. Choke bracket also needs doing. Luckily enough the two mega long 6mm screws are long enough to thread into carb nº4, so thats a thing I don't need to address 4 Quote
Joseph Posted October 11, 2023 Author Posted October 11, 2023 Spigots are pressed into the base plates, now getting ready to send all the ally bits off to the TIG welder since welding is not my greatest talent, aluminium welding is not possible Also visible is the amount i can take out the cylinder head to open up its intake potential by matching the 36mm carbs 5 Quote
Joseph Posted October 11, 2023 Author Posted October 11, 2023 Plenum base is looking nice too 8 Quote
TonyGee Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 3 hours ago, Joseph said: Plenum base is looking nice too looks the muts nuts Joseph 1 Quote
clivegto Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 Great to see progress on this and impressive progress at that . 1 Quote
Duckndive Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 On 10/10/2023 at 5:59 PM, Joseph said: I'm assuming you had the plate laser or water jet cut ? If so who did you use ? Quote
Joseph Posted October 11, 2023 Author Posted October 11, 2023 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Duckndive said: I'm assuming you had the plate laser or water jet cut ? If so who did you use ? It's laser cut by company local to me in France It's 2mm stainless and i don't know if i got lucky because often laser cut gives a notchy edge but the few i had them do of this part came out great Edited October 11, 2023 by Joseph 2 Quote
Joseph Posted October 13, 2023 Author Posted October 13, 2023 Got a few last bits from the laser cutter : Since the GSX1400 doesn't have cam oil ports on both sides of the head i had to come up with a solution : 4 Quote
Joseph Posted October 19, 2023 Author Posted October 19, 2023 (edited) Quick question Got my hands on the last bits for the plenum : the intake pipe I have a 10mm OD tube for the pitot. I chose that because thats what recurrent info i found online (i still have no idea what I'm doing, i'm just going by what stuff i find online and especially here) Any preference based on these three angles ? (On Ol' Red the tube was inline with the plenum intake, like the first photo, for example) Or do i just choose whatever suits the space i've got ? Would i need to do a slash cut on either of those setups or just the 45 / 90 degree ones ? Ta Edited October 19, 2023 by Joseph Quote
Gixer1460 Posted October 19, 2023 Posted October 19, 2023 I understood a pitot opening should face into the airflow, so if the air is entering the tube from the left in 1st pic this would give the best signal - square or slash cut end makes little difference. The 2nd one marginally worse but slash cut into airflow can't be achieved, a bend would help. 3rd and 4th I think will suck air (vacuum) rather than get pressurised - similar to a jet in a venturi . Positioned in centre of the up-tube gets straightest / fastest / less turbulent air which is good but it could be at the edge but with slightly slower air due to friction / turbulence. BTW pitot's on planes used to read airspeed, usually face forward. Quote
Joseph Posted October 19, 2023 Author Posted October 19, 2023 Cool. That makes total sense. Thanks for the clarification Now it's off to the welders then Quote
peter1127 Posted October 20, 2023 Posted October 20, 2023 Indeed face into the airstream, as close to the middle as possible. I made 2, each for each pair of carbs. Worked for me in a way that main jets were very close to stock, which means if boost varies AF is still ok. 1 Quote
Joseph Posted October 20, 2023 Author Posted October 20, 2023 Bench drill is a bit wonky but hey I got it centered and it worked out ok 7 Quote
Joseph Posted December 20, 2023 Author Posted December 20, 2023 Just heard from the welder, the plenum is almost done 4 Quote
Joseph Posted April 2 Author Posted April 2 Back at it (somewhat) Onto turbo placement. Quick question : at what height in relation to the sump oil level can i potentially not require a scavenge pump ? Looks like i can plop the turbo on the frame approx 8 cm above the sump to engine mating surface Quote
clivegto Posted April 2 Posted April 2 For me turbo positioning depends on oilcooler position usually. Quote
Joseph Posted April 2 Author Posted April 2 42 minutes ago, clivegto said: For me turbo positioning depends on oilcooler position usually. Oh ? How so ? Height dependant technical requirements or just because of the layout ? In my case it looks like the turbo would/could be placed behind the gearbox casing/rear engine mount area Quote
Gixer1460 Posted April 2 Posted April 2 1 hour ago, Joseph said: Oh ? How so ? Height dependant technical requirements or just because of the layout ? In my case it looks like the turbo would/could be placed behind the gearbox casing/rear engine mount area Sounds like a draw through install - if so, they never need a pump, gravity drain is easy to achieve. Just keep drain line back to cases above static oil level. But that far back could introduce lag into the delivery, most would have the turbo behind the cylinder block. 1 Quote
Joseph Posted April 2 Author Posted April 2 Sorry got a bit mixed up. It looks like the turbo will be alongside the stator cover, perpendicular to the crank axis. It has to be a blow through system because a draw through would mean not having a steering column Quote
Gixer1460 Posted April 2 Posted April 2 Its . . . . . . Its . . . . . . . . A CAR ! ! ! Same rules apply - get it as high above static oil level as possible but of course that affects C of G which can have more side effects than desired in 4 wheeled 'Ltwt' vehicles. Hope the sump baffling is good - dry sump would be ideal of course! 1 Quote
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