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GSX1400 engine Turbo project


Joseph

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Posted
On 9/20/2023 at 12:56 PM, Joseph said:

Well thats good 'cause i've scored the web and nobody has the size required (8x11.5x2.5)

Centurion Motorcycle Projects might be the man to ask :tu

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

A bit of an update.

So, when i need lathe jobs, I have to spend money on a man because i don't have the tools or know how to machine parts, but he's delivered once again (y)

Alloy spigots for the intake pipes and plenum outlets :

IMG_20231010_183535_HDR.thumb.jpg.d55ca70e7ad7f4153168879bdd1bb3e7.jpg

IMG_20231010_183628_HDR.thumb.jpg.96c31feea4f0bbf34dea6f37f6ae6cb9.jpg

And the parts required for the caburettor conversion (spacers, mainly, because 2 and 3 carb need a big gap added), along with a nice little extended alloy T junction feed to fit with a brass spigot for the fuel feed :

IMG_20231010_183302_HDR.thumb.jpg.887d53e87b314a3424e7905118499960.jpg

Finally, this little jobby to make up for the difference in height of the bandit rotor compared to the 14 rotor :

IMG_20231010_184229.thumb.jpg.09ca317a21136a33c7e531453373bb30.jpg

So unless i've completely forgotten about some major aspect of how an engine works, this is all that is needed to convert a GSX 1400 to Bandit 1200 analog engine management ?

I'll put it all together tomorrow, it's getting late now I'll probably arse something up if it start now 

Edited by Joseph
  • Like 4
Posted

The rack got stretched

IMG_20231011_095857.thumb.jpg.14f608236181b4a675786b7bd2984572.jpg

Just a mock up build, i needed to see how long a tab i needed to weld onto the carb nº2 butterfly control, because as you can see it way out.

Choke bracket also needs doing.

Luckily enough the two mega long 6mm screws are long enough to thread into carb nº4, so thats a thing I don't need to address

  • Like 4
Posted

Spigots are pressed into the base plates, now getting ready to send all the ally bits off to the TIG welder since welding is not my greatest talent, aluminium welding is not possible

IMG-20231011-123205-HDR.jpg

Also visible is the amount i can take out the cylinder head to open up its intake potential by matching the 36mm carbs

  • Like 5
Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

I'm assuming you had the plate laser or water jet cut ? 

If so who did you use ?

It's laser cut by company local to me in France

It's 2mm stainless and i don't know if i got lucky because often laser cut gives a notchy edge but the few i had them do of this part came out great

FB-IMG-1696708961363.jpg

Edited by Joseph
  • Like 2
Posted

Got a few last bits from the laser cutter :

Since the GSX1400 doesn't have cam oil ports on both sides of the head i had to come up with a solution :

IMG-20231013-124107-HDR.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

Quick question

Got my hands on the last bits for the plenum : the intake pipe 

IMG_20231019_104701_HDR.jpg

I have a 10mm OD tube for the pitot. I chose that because thats what recurrent info i found online (i still have no idea what I'm doing, i'm just going by what stuff i find online and especially here)

Any preference based on these three angles ? (On Ol' Red the tube was inline with the plenum intake, like the first photo, for example) Or do i just choose whatever suits the space i've got ?

IMG_20231019_130431_HDR.jpg

IMG_20231019_130422_HDR.jpg

IMG_20231019_130418_HDR.jpg

IMG-20231019-134936.jpg

Would i need to do a slash cut on either of those setups or just the 45 / 90 degree ones ? 

Ta

Edited by Joseph
Posted

I understood a pitot opening should face into the airflow, so if the air is entering the tube from the left in 1st pic this would give the best signal - square or slash cut end makes little difference. The 2nd one marginally worse but slash cut into airflow can't be achieved, a bend would help. 3rd and 4th I think will suck air (vacuum) rather than get pressurised - similar to a jet in a venturi . Positioned in centre of the up-tube gets straightest / fastest / less turbulent air which is good but it could be at the edge but with slightly slower air due to friction / turbulence. BTW pitot's on planes used to read airspeed, usually face forward.

Posted

Indeed face into the airstream, as close to the middle as possible.  I made 2, each for each pair of carbs.  Worked for me in a way that main jets were very close to stock, which means if boost varies AF is still ok.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Back at it (somewhat)

Onto turbo placement.

Quick question : at what height in relation to the sump oil level can i potentially not require a scavenge pump ?

Looks like i can plop the turbo on the frame approx 8 cm above the sump to engine mating surface 

Posted
42 minutes ago, clivegto said:

For me turbo positioning depends on oilcooler position usually. 

Oh ? How so ? Height dependant technical requirements or just because of the layout ? In my case it looks like the turbo would/could be placed behind the gearbox casing/rear engine mount area

Posted
1 hour ago, Joseph said:

Oh ? How so ? Height dependant technical requirements or just because of the layout ? In my case it looks like the turbo would/could be placed behind the gearbox casing/rear engine mount area

Sounds like a draw through install - if so, they never need a pump, gravity drain is easy to achieve. Just keep drain line back to cases above static oil level. But that far back could introduce lag into the delivery, most would have the turbo behind the cylinder block.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sorry got a bit mixed up. It looks like the turbo will be alongside the stator cover, perpendicular to the crank axis. It has to be a blow through system because a draw through would mean not having a steering column xD

Posted

Its . . . . . . Its . . . . . . . . A CAR ! ! ! :stop: O.o :D

Same rules apply - get it as high above static oil level as possible but of course that affects C of G which can have more side effects than desired in 4 wheeled 'Ltwt' vehicles. Hope the sump baffling is good - dry sump would be ideal of course!

  • Like 1

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