250+ hp... how doable?

[Gixer1460]

1 hour ago, Fredrik_Steen said:

If you are on a budget, you can make 250 without any modifications to the engine, the bandit lump has low compression from factory.

Generally agree but std. OEM cast pistons don't last well with boost - maybe sub 0.5 bar ok, but much more and bye bye! Ring lands crush with heat and pressure, trap rings = massive blow by. Busa pistons are cast but seem to be better than most and can tolerate some good boost but even they have their limits @ about 280hp level. GSXR / Blandit rods usually safe at your target although how much more over, is open to debate LOL!

[MeanBean49]

12 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Generally agree but std. OEM cast pistons don't last well with boost - maybe sub 0.5 bar ok, but much more and bye bye! Ring lands crush with heat and pressure, trap rings = massive blow by. Busa pistons are cast but seem to be better than most and can tolerate some good boost but even they have their limits @ about 280hp level. GSXR / Blandit rods usually safe at your target although how much more over, is open to debate LOL!

Can almost measure in minutes how long bandit pistons last above 5psi lol.

Not so important in Mr Steens world where lasting a few seconds on a non motorcycle dyno and getting a big number to plaster all over the internet seems to be all thats important 

[Captain Chaos]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

Busa pistons are cast

forged

[Fredrik_Steen]

1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:

Can almost measure in minutes how long bandit pistons last above 5psi lol.

Not so important in Mr Steens world where lasting a few seconds on a non motorcycle dyno and getting a big number to plaster all over the internet seems to be all thats important 

5 psi ~ 0,34bar

100 stock bandit hp x 1,34 = 134hp

Think that will last for a long time...

 

Regarding non "motorcykel" dyno, people that actually know stuff are more impressed with a run in a loaded water absorber than on a light roller.

Atleast you can't cheat with djhp like your best friend.

 

My point was, keep your ignition timing safe and don't throw all boost in the torque max range. Most part failures are user errors. 

[Gixer1460]

2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

forged

I used to think so also but seeing the underside of one made me think cast ! - Happy to be proved wrong though!

[MeanBean49]

3 hours ago, Fredrik_Steen said:

5 psi ~ 0,34bar

100 stock bandit hp x 1,34 = 134hp

Think that will last for a long time...

 

Regarding non "motorcykel" dyno, people that actually know stuff are more impressed with a run in a loaded water absorber than on a light roller.

Atleast you can't cheat with djhp like your best friend.

 

My point was, keep your ignition timing safe and don't throw all boost in the torque max range. Most part failures are user errors. 

My best freind?

Not really, i just thinkthe whole willy waving over a madeup self proclaimed "world reccord" is absolutely pathetic.

And I think your way over estimating the amount of people who are actually impressed.

Nobody cares about numbers on paper. Want to impress people, make it a motorbike and use it, do somthing real! 

[1260Pete1]

3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

I used to think so also but seeing the underside of one made me think cast ! - Happy to be proved wrong though!

Nope definitely forged mate.

[rerb]

Good advice, i'm up to 15 psi now after removing the exhaust and some fueling tweaking, so far no weak spots in the AFR in boost. Thing boogies. Ran a 7.2 1/8th mile @104 mph with no launch while crossing the gates in a 3rd gear powerwheelie at 7.5k rpms. To get any good numbers a longer swinger would be required. As for the comment about boost during peak torque, I understand that high boost in lower rpms can over torque the motor, but if peak torque is far up in the rev range, is that something to concerned with? my turbo's a lazy bastard so I only start to come into power at about 6k -> 10k, although it does build to 10 psi pretty quick.

And an ignitech box with dyna coils is the next priority, solely to have access to timing curves, limiter, and stronger spark. (and 2step for the launches ) 

BTW the motor has busa pistons, APE head studs/nuts and a HD cchain. So it's decently prepped for some good numbers.

Edited November 2, 2021 by rerb

[MeanBean49]

13 hours ago, rerb said:

Good advice, i'm up to 15 psi now after removing the exhaust and some fueling tweaking, so far no weak spots in the AFR in boost. Thing boogies. Ran a 7.2 1/8th mile @104 mph with no launch while crossing the gates in a 3rd gear powerwheelie at 7.5k rpms. To get any good numbers a longer swinger would be required. As for the comment about boost during peak torque, I understand that high boost in lower rpms can over torque the motor, but if peak torque is far up in the rev range, is that something to concerned with? my turbo's a lazy bastard so I only start to come into power at about 6k -> 10k, although it does build to 10 psi pretty quick.

And an ignitech box with dyna coils is the next priority, solely to have access to timing curves, limiter, and stronger spark. (and 2step for the launches ) 

BTW the motor has busa pistons, APE head studs/nuts and a HD cchain. So it's decently prepped for some good numbers.

If your going ignitech, ditch the Dyna coils and go for their COP's too. Its a better option

[rerb]

On 11/3/2021 at 6:23 AM, MeanBean49 said:

If your going ignitech, ditch the Dyna coils and go for their COP's too. Its a better option

Looking back on this now as winter comes to an end here, wouldn't COP require sequential ignition? Or does their CDi box have outputs to each coil keeping wasted spark?