Dukeman Posted May 12, 2020 Posted May 12, 2020 Started to give the R and birthday. Forks are off as the seals are to be replaced. New carb rubbers, seats....$$$, clamps and hoses if they ever turn up. Only been waiting 2 months from Partzilla. While apart I thought it might be an opportunity to replace the leads / coils as the cap has fallen off on. What are good options for leads and coils... Dyno? - anything else? 3 Quote
Dukeman Posted May 12, 2020 Author Posted May 12, 2020 Another because I can. Love to remove the swing-arm and polish... add some new stickers and have it clear coated. 4 Quote
Dukeman Posted May 15, 2020 Author Posted May 15, 2020 I would like to replace the leads, the cap has come off one and does not want to screw back in. Has anyone replaced just the leads, us the same coils and caps? Quote
Dukeman Posted May 15, 2020 Author Posted May 15, 2020 These discs and calipers cam with the bike. Anyone have any idea what the calipers are off? Wheels are 88 slingshot.. are the calipers? Quote
Dukeman Posted May 16, 2020 Author Posted May 16, 2020 Still waiting on parts from Partzilla - 8 weeks so far, i wonder if this is because of the 19 thing. Tried to get some parts from Italy for my RG500 and the freight cost had doubled, so I did not buy anything until they drop the cost. Have found a private Gurls blouse supplier who will purchases parts from CMS, he get a big discount on shipping etc and will get parts for me... so that is great news. My R forks are sitting there looking at me, trying to work out how to drive in the fork seal and found this Utube vid.. looks like the go. If only those F-en parts would turn up... paid for them weeks and weeks and weeks ago. The bike is sitting with no oil in it, need to put the timing cover back on but are waiting for guess what? Another question.... oil poured out of this when the cover came off, actually it was after draining engine and compression testing the motor while cold. Is that normal? Quote
Dukeman Posted May 16, 2020 Author Posted May 16, 2020 Another question, this timing thing is meant to be a Yoshi upgrade... is it? What the F does it do? advance timing? Quote
Dukeman Posted May 17, 2020 Author Posted May 17, 2020 Hell - lots of questions and NO answers.... Can the cables / wires be changed on the coils? This is in next on my job list.... Hello anyone out there? Quote
Oilyspanner Posted May 18, 2020 Posted May 18, 2020 If there's enough HT cable, snip 6/7mm off the end and the plug cap should screw on again - there's normally enough cable to comfortably do this. The ignition advancer does just that, it advances the spark by 3 - 5 degrees compared with the crank position, it makes the pick up a bit perkier and adds 1 or 2 hp in the mid-range. Nissin calipers were used on the Slingshots, not Tokico ...so don't know. Check that the brake line fittings aren't aluminium, they look like anodised items - they do fail, unlike stainless ones. I like to save weight on my favourite bike, but I won't fit ally fittings on my brakes, they were all the rage in the 90's, but they break easily - you don't want your brakes to break...….Ti is good, stainless is good. A little oil is normal in the ignition cover, there's a vent to the crank - you can see it if you crouch down, it's not big. Quote
Wee Man Posted May 18, 2020 Posted May 18, 2020 I think RGV's and GSXR600's came with those calipers. 1 Quote
Dukeman Posted May 19, 2020 Author Posted May 19, 2020 Thanks Oily - A little oil in the ignition cover is normal... that is good. If I fill the crank case off will the oil pour out while this cover is off? I can see the crank, so yes it would it seems. I am waiting for the screw gaskets to turn up and then i will be able to fill the crankcase. Quote
Dukeman Posted May 19, 2020 Author Posted May 19, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, Wee Man said: I think RGV's and GSXR600's came with those calipers. OMG - yes you are correct .. RGV..LOL. I have these on my RG5 - not up and running yet, I have painted them the same colour as original. I purchase them with the modified RG forks. Have to say the front brakes are terrible, I am assuming it is the master cylinder. Also planning to change the brake lines, I do not like the ali screw together ones... all in good time $$$$ Edited May 19, 2020 by Dukeman 1 Quote
Oilyspanner Posted May 19, 2020 Posted May 19, 2020 5 hours ago, Dukeman said: Thanks Oily - A little oil in the ignition cover is normal... that is good. If I fill the crank case off will the oil pour out while this cover is off? I can see the crank, so yes it would it seems. I am waiting for the screw gaskets to turn up and then i will be able to fill the crankcase. Once the engine isn't running you'll only have the small amount of oil run out, the oil will return to the sump, away from the ignition pick-up cover. I'm with Weeman, the 4 pot Nissins are good calipers and the correct type of vintage too. Check how well the pistons move when you use two thumbs on them, old calipers tend to not move very well - do this before going for the m/cylinder. Quote
Dezza Posted May 19, 2020 Posted May 19, 2020 Trying to change the HT leads on stock Suzuki coils is more trouble than it's worth. Unless your problem can be rectified by simply shortening the HT lead as OIlyspan suggests, then Kawasaki coils from ZZR, ZX7 and so on are the same spec and have threaded retainers that enable easy HT lead replacement. I disagree with all the hysteria about alloy brake fittings. The problem is they don't take kindly to neglect, salt and especially a combination of neglect and salt. By the pictures, you do not live in e.g. Scunthorpe, Doncaster, Slough etc. so the bike is unlikely to see salt. Change your brake fluid regularly and check the brake components and you'll have no problems with quality fittings. I have used re-usuable Goodridge alloy brake fittings since the 80s with no problems but also use stainless as they are now easier to get cheap secondhand. Quote
Dukeman Posted May 21, 2020 Author Posted May 21, 2020 Thanks Sledge - I do have one spare Dyna 3 OHm Mini coil laying round, I thought it was a stuffed coil on my Kat that was causing a problem. You guessed it, it was not. SO I have 1, just need another and some leads. $$$$$ Dyna Coil $185 NZ + Taylor Leads $167 NZ = $352 = $215 USD If I purchase the ZZR coils and want to replace the leads then I only need to find some cable and cut them to length? Are the 7mm or 8mm and where can you find cable? Use the existing caps - free ZZR coils ---Holly Shit Batman - just looked on Fleabay and they want $241 NZ landed in NZ for a set of secondhand coils..... and I will need to buy leads... Nearly worth spending the $$ on the Dyna / Taylor stuff.... still waiting for my last part order, wife not happy so I will have to wait for a while until the she no longer remembers... then wham another order placed. Quote
Dezza Posted May 21, 2020 Posted May 21, 2020 The last set of ZZR coils I bought were £25 from eb@y earlier this year, although they usualy go for about £40. These were a secondhand OEM Kawasaki set complete with caps and leads. The leads have gone hard and need replacing. Taylor leads fit and the longest offcuts from when these have had to be shortended can be used with the OEM caps, and can often be obtained by asking around as people usually keep them 'just in case.' Quote
Dukeman Posted May 24, 2020 Author Posted May 24, 2020 I will have to buy leads, do not know anyone with off cuts, so I have tried fitting the Dyna coil using the existing mounts, looks like they will fit. They will need 90deg lead fittings and some new spacers made. But this one is on and the tank fits with aplenty of clearance. I have owned this bike since 2006 - and done FA to it in all these years except change the oil and filter every year, so it is time it got some love. While i have the parts STILL on order... I have pulled the calipers, or one so far and the inside pistons did not move freely. Had to do the old compressed air trick to get them out and the inside ones I needed to lever the piston back and forward from the inside to get it moving, but all 4 are out. They were not leaking... Pistons are in great shape, can I reuse the seals???? Give everything a clean and reassemble? Save a little time and $$. Common sense says..No I have kept everything separate so things can go back in to the same hole. Quote
Dukeman Posted May 24, 2020 Author Posted May 24, 2020 While I was removing the calipers and the forks are off I thought I would do a little cleaning... then i saw this... WTF? Never noticed that bolt before.... looks like a drain? Anyone know? Have not tried to undo yet. Also drained the oil cooler after all there was a mix of petrol and oil in there. Cranks case is still empty, planning to fill it and spin the crank tomorrow, some oil will come out the timing cover but I don't like there being no oil in the crank case! Quote
Captain Chaos Posted May 24, 2020 Posted May 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Dukeman said: Pistons are in great shape, can I reuse the seals???? to be honest, after 20 years of being a bike mechanic, in 90% of the cases I reuse the seals if they are not damaged. A good clean is usually enough. Make sure you thoroughly clean the grooves where the seals sit. Quote
jameskat Posted May 24, 2020 Posted May 24, 2020 2 hours ago, Dukeman said: While I was removing the calipers and the forks are off I thought I would do a little cleaning... then i saw this... WTF? Never noticed that bolt before.... looks like a drain? Anyone know? Have not tried to undo yet. Also drained the oil cooler after all there was a mix of petrol and oil in there. Cranks case is still empty, planning to fill it and spin the crank tomorrow, some oil will come out the timing cover but I don't like there being no oil in the crank case! It is a plug for the cross drilling for the oil pressure relief valve and cooler bypass, it would normally be a socket head plug like No10. Quote
Dukeman Posted May 28, 2020 Author Posted May 28, 2020 Thanks James - answers that question. Leave well enough alone. Will these ignition leads work on the GSXR11 - 86 ? Nice and cheap and rated well.. i will use them on my DC1-3 mini Dyna coils. https://www.amazon.com/Dynatek-Suppression-Plug-Wire-DW-800/dp/B00230BWR0/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Dynatek+Spark+Plug+Wires&qid=1590643847&sr=8-1#customerReviews I can use the old top plug on the leads to make them water proof. Quote
Dezza Posted May 28, 2020 Posted May 28, 2020 Yes, but you'll need the correct tool to crimp the brass ends that go on the coil to the new leads. Quote
Dukeman Posted May 28, 2020 Author Posted May 28, 2020 Ok - any idea what that tool looks like? Quote
Dukeman Posted June 30, 2020 Author Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) My parts have turned up... like Christmas going through them all. So now the fun start putting everything back together. Hell it does not look much but there are 90+ parts here and cost a small fortune. Edited June 30, 2020 by Dukeman Quote
Dukeman Posted June 30, 2020 Author Posted June 30, 2020 I think I have found a good solution for my coils, can anyone see why this is not a good option? As I have one Dyna miniature DC1-2 coil, I will get another. 3ohm. I have seen some options for mounting and I will try in the standard place, if not then similar to this, picture below. The options are Copper core or Carbon core - Quoted on a motorcycle forum 80's XS. "I use silicone leads with carbon fibre cores, in conjunction with Dyna coils and iridium plugs. The silicone leads are much more flexible than usual metal cored ones and I think carbon fibre has less resistance than copper? Also, they don;t suffer from the ends getting corroded and cracking etc. Mine have been on for at least 6 months with no problems at all. Quite the opposite, in fact. I noticed an instant difference in running when I fitted the above." Kingsborne 7mm Mag-Wire Wound Wire WSP 1306. Kingsborne 7mm Mag-Wire Wound Wire Silicone outer jacket.Mag-Wire Wound Wire For use on all cars and trucks equipped with high energy ignition systems Premium, top of the line ignition wire, Mag-Wire is manufactured with a stainless nickel alloy wire, wound 32 times per inch around a conductive laxtex coated heavy fiberglass core. This conductor meets Original Equipment R.F.I. (Radio Frequency Interference) requirements while operating at one tenth the resistance of conventional "Carbon Core" conductor. Wire resistance 500 ohms per foot KINGSBORNE MAG WIRE EXCEEDS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT SPECIFICATIONS Wire colors available Black, Blue, Red Our Price:$39.25 for 25feet. http://www.kingsbornewires.com/product-p/wsp1306.htm So plan is 2 x Dyna miniature coils 3ohm 7mm carbon core Kingsborne ignition wire Standard caps. Sound like a plan? Quote
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