rtb between a boot

[v-twinwalker]

on my bike i have 4 boots and boot 1-3 are not gonna move the screws are in tight as can be and im not gonna try to remove them, boot 4 however was very easy to take off and i didnt struggle at all, cylinder 4 was always the one with the lowest temp too so i dont know if theres any leaking from the boot or not, that being said, is it a bad idea to use something like rtb to just go around it with to make some sort of gasket, and why isnt there gaskets inbetween ur boots an engine? i feel like the first question will answer the second but still im curious.

 

on a side note boot 4 and also carb 4 were very easily accesible it seems like it was very recently ran through before i got the bike, do you think somebody did a compression test and number 4 was low? what other reason would somebody take those off and only those not all 4. maybe just to check the condition of them. 

update i got my gaskets a couple days ago and i finally started doing things tonight my tree and forks this time were perfectly fine so i got hope that my bike will be up very soon so it gave me motive to rerun through the carbs and now im currently putting them back together, a little discolouration came out of them but not alot so i did decent the first time cleaning them, not to mention they did sit for a few weeks, but now id say theyre cleaned well for using spray and not a gel that sits on them, if they need recleaning yeah ill be using gel so they sit. front tire comes Wednesday and aslong as everything goes well itll be back on the road when the tires on. 

[Gixer1460]

8 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:

and why aren't there gaskets in between ur boots an engine? i feel like the first question will answer the second but still im curious.

There are - look again !

[Swiss Toni]

They're probably flat as a pancake. Usually are!

[Blubber]

Yep... There is a o-ring fitted in a molded recess on the head side of the carburettors boots or rubbers. 

These go flat over time and are easily forgotten during maintenance or troubleshooting.  If they are suspected of leaking, a method of testing is spraying carburettors cleaner one boot at a time with a running engine. If the engine revolutions change while being sprayed...You found a leak. Can still be the boot has a crack,  a loose connection or a damaged o-ring.

Using some rtv sealant or silicone is road side repair just to get you home.

Replace and forget would be my preference. 

 

Especially now that you've mentioned nr 4 has always been colder. 

 

[Gixer1460]

16 minutes ago, Blubber said:

especially now that you've mentioned nr 4 has always been colder. 

wouldn't an inlet leak make the burn hotter due to lean / excess air unless it's so leaky as to not run properly which should be more obvious ?

[Blubber]

4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

wouldn't an inlet leak make the burn hotter due to lean / excess air unless it's so leaky as to not run properly which should be more obvious ?

In my mind, if there is a leak between engine and carburettors,  the suction to draw fuel up would be lowered.. So yes

[v-twinwalker]

atleast on boot 4 theres no gasket ive took it off a couple times just to look at my valves but it must be squished so hard that its stuck on the boot or engine or its not there at all, when i put it back on theres no pressure build up when tightening like if there was a gasket it just sits flat against the engine, when i opened carbs there was also no o rings so i think certain parts were just took off and not put back on since theyre not "necessary". ill make a list of the things i should get starting with the boot gaskets and some o-rings, ill check the condition when i take off the boots to make sure if i need new boots or not

with the carbs my floats were also all a bit too high, also my gaskets were too thin i got feltpro gaskets so i traced them on some  cardboard/paper and made extra ones to thicken the gasket so my float bowls would sit correctly and not wobble, i made sure to make holes for the needle and the other hole next to it dont know what it is i just know some stuff bout carbs. if i have to take my carbs off again which i think its possible im just not hoping for it, ill order another pair of feltpro gaskets to overlay on the first pair, and get o rings and then the boot gaskets. 

 

ill definitely be checking for vacuum leaks once i put carbs on and fire up

tell me if the paper gaskets are dumb i know gas sits in ur float

Edited November 2, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[gs7_11]

Err, what?

[v-twinwalker]

2 hours ago, gs7_11 said:

Err, what?

yeah i talk in a mess 

[v-twinwalker]

if my vacuum fuel valve leaks at all when its just on "on" does that mean it needs a rebuild it just leaks a little but leaking is leaking, also i need to use pliers to turn it because its so hard to turn

 

this could help torubleshoot my fuel delivery problem from the last time i ran the bike

yeah leaks even more since i said this and its been only an hour, im gonna order a new one i cant find one that looks like this. im probably just gonna bring it to a shop idk whats wrong anymore i only got 1 pop out of it, im sure the gasket cut outs i made dont help, but i did assemble the carbs correctly and cleaned them very well but i know thats not always the problem, well, im putting my white flag up.

Edited November 3, 2019 by v-twinwalker

[v-twinwalker]

fuck me i gotta do it myself the shop thatll work on my bike has 5 projects before me and i found out that the carb clean vid i used had me take out my airscrews and didnt tell me how to put them back in correctly so now i know about turns(wish i didnt take em out at all). gonna wait till i get the new fuel valve first but im gonna do 1 1/2 turns, hopefully thee bike starts up and ill finer tune from there, do i have to redo the air fuel ratio when putting pods on my carbs? guys how fucked am i

[Rustynail]

Don’t panic so much, do yourself a favour and have a look at a post by @Russ750ETCarb Rebuilding advise. There is a link to a carb manual (thanks BigT) which has all the info you should need to service your carbs. To keep things as simple as possible just put carbs and air filter back to standard and get the thing running. 

[Gixer1460]

3 hours ago, Rustynail said:

To keep things as simple as possible just put carbs and air filter back to standard and get the thing running. 

He won't listen !  And he doesn't know what std. is as he hasn't bought a manual yet!

[gs7_11]

7 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:

......how fucked am i

As Clint Eastwood said;

"A man's gotta know his limitations."

You're trying to learn motorcycle mechanics from the ground up in a few days. Took most of us here years. We can't teach you over the internet.

You're where I was when I was 15, and I started with a Gurls blouse 50.

Stop trying to run before you can crawl.

[v-twinwalker]

5 hours ago, Rustynail said:

 To keep things as simple as possible just put carbs and air filter back to standard and get the thing running. 

yeah i was thinking that right before i checked this, its just a complete pain in the ass to get the first half of my airbox back in, i saw a vid just watching people work on projects and he said hes gonna rejet the carbs since hes doing pods so thats steering me away from the idea guess ill just have pods sitting till i wanna use them. i have things ordered i am gonna try again when i get the fuel valve and gaskets, then im gonna open the carbs up again prob just from the float bowls to do the gaskets quick i did the cleaning good, i had no clue i messed with my air fuel  ratio if i knew it was that screw i wouldnt have done it. 

[v-twinwalker]

10 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:

 

Stop trying to run before you can crawl.

you're right i just dont really know what im doing and the more i learn the more i realise i dont know much. if i had a chance to get a different and simpler bike i wouldve, but i cant now and i like it too much to sell it. 

[v-twinwalker]

1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

He won't listen !  And he doesn't know what std. is as he hasn't bought a manual yet!

yes i still havent got a manual and yea it took me like 4 different posts before i opened the carbs and saw they needed cleaning, ur not wrong when you say what to do just dont deliver it in the nicest way. ill stop doing dumb things and stick to just fixing it.

[v-twinwalker]

here is my last thing i have to say, i cant have my airbox on when i work with the air ratio. ill put on the original airbox and leave the idea of ITBs out of my head for a while. im assuming i just have to look up the standard spec for the number of turns i do, but does anyone know it off hand. im still gonna be looking it up i need to learn more since im gonna have to take this over. 

[v-twinwalker]

im gonna take pics of the carbs to make sure what im talking about is the right thing

just cant be safe enough

 

[gs7_11]

If you search, you can find screw settings for that bike or a similar one that will get the bike running. They might even be in the manual!

In my experience, set everything up as per the manual and you will be fine. 

Make sure you can prove every drilling is clear by either blowing compressed air through, or spraying carb cleaner through.

Don't forget any float bowl drillings.

Do a basic service on the bike, as per THE MANUAL.

Most manuals will then have a trouble shooting section, start with that.

[Gixer1460]

4 hours ago, v-twinwalker said:

yes i still havent got a manual and yea it took me like 4 different posts before i opened the carbs and saw they needed cleaning, ur not wrong when you say what to do just dont deliver it in the nicest way. ill stop doing dumb things and stick to just fixing it.

If I don't deliver it in 'the nicest way' it's because you frustrate the hell out of me! A lot of us learnt this the hard way, before the internet and instant response answers either from fathers, brothers, relatives or one step at a time with a few tools and a manual for guidance!

Stop thinking about shit you don't understand, stop buying crap you don't know how it works and spend the best $25-30 you'll ever spend and just buy a f**kin manual that will pretty much answer all your questions!

[Swiss Toni]

Have you tried Carl Salter on line for a manual? You might hit lucky!

[v-twinwalker]

its my pilot air jet that i took out, it says specification is #160, does that make sense? does it mean degrees? im looking at a manual online. saw nothing about tuning my air fuel mixture i saw balancing carbs but thats mainly it. i have mikuni bs32ss carbs so ill look them up maybe itll help.

[Swiss Toni]

1 hour ago, v-twinwalker said:

1 hour ago, v-twinwalker said:

its my pilot air jet that i took out, it says specification is #160, does that make sense? does it mean degrees? 

Google is your friend. 

Mikuni, Kiehin ... same idea! 

For Keihin Carbs the jet sizes refer to the metering orifice (or flow rate) diameter, expressed in millimeters.  A # 100 jet is 1.00mm in diiameter. A # 38 Jet is 0.38 mm in diameter.  A #35 jet is 0.35mm in diameter.

The smaller the jet size, the less fuel will flow through it at a given pressure difference across the orifice boundary.

Edited November 4, 2019 by Swiss Toni

[BigT]

Where to start

No, don't use RTV on anything on your bike

Put down the wrenches, stay off Utube and do some reading. Start here:

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?171846-Top-10-Newbie-Mistakes&highlight=top newbie mistakes

Get a manual here

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Learn to clean your carbs here. Spraying does next to nothng

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

 

You will need to remove all 4 carb boots to replace the O rings. Break out the penetrating oil and go to it.  You somehow have the impression that working on a 40 year old motorcycle should be a series of quick fixes. It's not. Expect to spend weeks or months and a bunch of cash to make it right. Was your bike cheap? Ask yourself why that was so

More reading

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?193159-The-GS-Deadly-Sins

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?194050-Help!-Your-Bike-Won-t-Run-Well

 

Note: You have already shown that you are "that guy"