harryhoarder Posted May 7, 2019 Posted May 7, 2019 Hi all I've got a 1988 1100 j that hasn't run for about 20 years. Engine is free I turn it over regularly and put oil down the plug holes. I am now at last able to bring her back to life. I put a battery in connected up the electrics but she wouldn't turn over. I've got power to the clocks,high beam and indicator dash light. The headlights rear lights front indicators aren't connected. Is there something I am missing. I have been following Martin Childs slabbie build in classic motorcycle mechanics and am doing a similar build. I notice he mentions a resistor in the wire immobilisation which was an early theft prevention . Not sure if this was a standard fitting or something someone fitted to his bike. I don't remember any immobiliser fitted to my bike when I was riding it just turn the key and press the button. Anyway you may have gathered electrics aren't my strong point so any help is welcome Cheers Quote
eramljak Posted May 7, 2019 Posted May 7, 2019 Hi, does the starter turn? if it does and it's not starting, you should check for spark and check the spark plug connections. also check fuel and compression on all cylinders would be a good start. if it's not turning, check the basics: solid connections and that your fuses are in good shape. Quote
colinworth79 Posted May 7, 2019 Posted May 7, 2019 These are quite basic in wiring, there is no resistor on the ignition switch just later stuff like bandits as to stop people hot wiring them. If you have power and the motor won't spin over when you push the button its going to be a signal to the starter relay, duff relay itself or starter motor. Trace the wire coming off the starter motor back to the relay and bridge 2 big contacts with some pliers or piece of wire this will prove the starter. If that works see if the solenoid is clicking when you press the starter. If it is then relay wants swapping. If it isn't clicking check the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch. Quote
wsn03 Posted May 8, 2019 Posted May 8, 2019 Im crap with electrics and had the same problem.as you. I couldn't believe the cure - my mate tapped the starter motor lightly with a hammer and it slowly started working. Told me the contacts corrode when stood. You tube how to test a relay as they give up and are easy to swap. I would take the starter out and test it on a bench. Quote
Dezza Posted May 8, 2019 Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) Get a known good battery and connect directly to the starter after first disconnecting the bike's wiring from the battery, main earth, starter motor etc.. Connect the positive to the starter motor connector then quickly connect the negative to bare metal on the engine block. Sparks will fly especially if you are not quick doing this so it helps not to use this method in a garage full of paint thinners fumes or similar.... If the motor cranks over OK then the problem is in your bike's wiring; if it does not crank over, or cranks slowly, the starter motor is at fault. Edited May 8, 2019 by Dezza 1 Quote
billd Posted May 8, 2019 Posted May 8, 2019 Good advise Dezza!! Simple and easy method to determine source of problem. Quote
wsn03 Posted May 8, 2019 Posted May 8, 2019 7 hours ago, Dezza said: Get a known good battery and connect directly to the starter after first disconnecting the bike's wiring from the battery, main earth, starter motor etc.. Connect the positive to the starter motor connector then quickly connect the negative to bare metal on the engine block. Sparks will fly especially if you are not quick doing this so it helps not to use this method in a garage full of paint thinners fumes or similar.... If the motor cranks over OK then the problem is in your bike's wiring; if it does not crank over, or cranks slowly, the starter motor is at fault. I'm electrically clueless. Apart from the sparks igniting something, is there any other risk wit doing this? Seems really simple Quote
Dezza Posted May 8, 2019 Posted May 8, 2019 1 hour ago, wsn03 said: I'm electrically clueless. Apart from the sparks igniting something, is there any other risk wit doing this? Seems really simple No, use a good set of jump leads though that are unlikely to slip off of the connections 1 Quote
harryhoarder Posted May 9, 2019 Author Posted May 9, 2019 Thanks for the advise. Is good to know I'm not the only who gets baffled by electrics. Been so long since I rode the old girl . Is that right the clutch needs to be pulled in before starting ? Can't remember doing this when I last rode it although I think modern suzuki need clutch in to start. Clutch lever is off the bike at moment as it's been fitted with new front end (k9 1000) so this may be the problem .Will fit it and see what happens. Quote
wsn03 Posted May 9, 2019 Posted May 9, 2019 13 hours ago, Dezza said: No, use a good set of jump leads though that are unlikely to slip off of the connections Thanks Dezza, I need to not be so scared of electrics - I'm slowly learning but do find it all a bit daunting. Quote
wsn03 Posted May 9, 2019 Posted May 9, 2019 2 hours ago, harryhoarder said: T Is that right the clutch needs to be pulled in before starting ? Can't remember doing this when I last rode it although I think modern suzuki need clutch in to start. My 85 Slabbie does not need clutch in to start. My 2001 Bandit does. I'm guessing you don't need the clutch, but hopefully someone with knowledge of your model can confirm Quote
Crass Posted May 11, 2019 Posted May 11, 2019 My 1990 750L doesn't need the clutch lever pulled so I'd be surprised if an 1100 from 88 did Quote
Captain Chaos Posted May 12, 2019 Posted May 12, 2019 depends on the market the bike was sold in new. My 750L does not need clutch pulled, my 750L from the USA needed clutch pulled. Same bike, same model year, different market. 1 Quote
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