Sandman

Is the cut time the same for all gears?

I am building two bikes with Ignitech ignition now. Could you give some advice regarding wiring the quickshifter and brand of quickshifter? I have buildt several modern race bikes using HM quickshifter. I also have a R1 -17 race bike with Quickshifter and blipper.

I'm pretty sure some of the heavy duty springs sold by some US manufacturers give way too high a valve spring pressure for street and circuit use. This leads to loss of power and reduced service life. A cheaper alternative could be to use springs from GSXR 750 88/89 or GSX750F? I know that these springs have almost the same stiffness as the Yoshimura spring kit. However, I am unsure which retainers should be used to achieve proper retainer-to-seal clearance for high lift cams? Is it possible that I can find a solution to this problem within a few months?

I think Micron serpent was a gimmick? If the benefits were as great as Micron claimed, then all exhaust systems today would have been produced in the same way? But I am no expert at all :-)

I am building two engines this winter. One 1340-engine with bigger valves, Yoshimura ST2 with spring/retainer kit. The other engine is 1216. I am interested in testing different cams specs in the 1216 engine.

I have buildt a lot of H ONDA CBR1000RR race engines using KENT cams. They are really good. What kind of grind no. have tried for the GSXR 1100? SUZ1 or SUZ7?

By using stock valve springs and retainers you may run into retainer-to-seal clearance problems with 10 mm cam lift?

The old st3 is now ST2 and old st2 is now ST1. Both are still available.

Static CR of 13.5:1 does not tell me much. But the dynamic CR depends on specs of camshafts. Some of the US-made valve springs are way to stiff. Therefore the cams does not last for long time. Yoshimura ST2 and valve spring kit is still available and are made for racing and are useable for the street.

If the bracing contributes to any stiffnes, it is no point to add the weigth of the bracing :-) The design of the Metmachex is better, but it is possible to improve the stiffness without adding a lot of weigth. Take a look at the design of the swing arm on a GSXR 750 RR/RK. The design is much better with respect to torsional/bending stiffness and weigth.

Do the math and descover that your homemade swing arm is not considerable stiffer than the stock one.

Interesting. What is the effective offset with this sprocket?

Here is a picture of a Moto2 KALEX chassis for 2020-season.

The design of swing arms for K1/K2 is far from optimal. SRAD swing arm is stiffer, but much heavier. K6 is more up to date. Look at a swing arm for a KALEX chassis in MOTO2. It is a piece of art. The picture of the braced swing arm shown above for the slabside is made by an amateur. Take a course in advanced structural engineering and FE analyis and you will understand what I try to tell.

But K1/K1 and R1 swing arm have a box that gives the stiffness to the structure. The bracing on the swing arm in the picture only supported by a flimsy alloy sheet, almost without any stiffness.

It want make the swing arm any stiffer, even if you have 750 hp.

This type of bracing may look cool, but contributes almost nothing to torsional stiffness or flexural stiffness of the swingarm. It only contributes to increased weight.

A custom shock will not solve the problem. You must sort out the link ratio. Than you can use a rear shock from a gsxr 1000 K5/K6 or GSXR 600 K6-K9.

Remember that the damping forces are also influenced by the link ratio, not only the spring rate. Therefore it is important to get the link ratio correct to get the rear end to work in a safe manner :-)

This bolt on, but check 1) piston to cylinder clearance 2) Piston to head clearance and 3) valve to piston clearance. The effective cylinder heigth for all 1052 ccm, 1127 ccm and 1157 ccm are same. 1052 ccm got 58 mm stroke and rod length 117.4 mm (C-C). 1127 ccm and 1157 ccm got 59 mm stroke and rod length 117.0 mm (C-C)

Turbo is like cheating ;-)

Compared to a full buildt race engine, this option is cheap.

I would go for a GSXR 750 88/89 frame with a GSXR 750 95 swingarm. GSXR 1000/600 K5 or newer forks, brakes and front wheel. GSXR 600 rear wheel (5.5 inch). Ohlins or KTech rear shock (GSXR 1000 K5/K6 or GSXR 600/750 K6-K9). 1246 pistons in a bandit engine with Kent cams (grind no. SUZ7) and ported head. Cheap power.

Do you have a picture?

Øhlins SU805 is for TL1000S. https://www.ohlins.com/document/17738/