Nelson

Hi Jonny1, how do I pay you for these. I signed up for a set of 4, but I’m bound to lose 1 one day, so could I up it to 2 sets, 8 in total.

Cheers Jonny1, I’m in.

Sorry, I’ve already done it, must have been on fire that night.

Those alloy ones look fantastic, how do you sign up for them?

Nelson 4, cheers

Clive, Here’s mine, the wheel’s off the deck

Hi Clive 770mm from the middle of the wheel spindle to the top of the fork leg. That's with the frontend off the bike, ie, with no weight on them. Mines an 87, H. hope that helps.

Got it ! Thanks

Thanks for your quick response Fat Bloke, I might be reading your reply wrong, however, if the offset is more, wouldn’t spacers make it worse. Here’s what my setup looks like. See what I’m at.

Looking for help, Does anyone know if early, Mk 1 bandit front discs, fit on Usd GSXR front rims. At the moment I’ve got the front end off a GSXR 1100 W on my Slabby & I’m after changing the front discs, so the disc hole pattern on the front, matches the back. This is what I’ve got This is what I’m after These discs are off a GSXR 1100 W, very late model & are like hens teeth. Any help, appreciated.

Hi Mac, Have you tried the leds out in the dark yet ? I'm always looking to improving my nightlife & real time experience beats a million forum experts.

Hi Zen, What Baldrick says, The 1100 W's are 770mm long, the 1100 M / N are 740 I think. The water cooled were the longest I think & the heaviest of the GSXRs, so that might help with a big heavy EFE. I put some 1100M's on a GSX 1100 & it was decking out very early, had to have them extended by 2 inch to sort it out. I've got some W usds on my Slabby & they work a treat, great tyre choice, great brakes & no more diving. PS. nice bike Rick.

Simbec, forgot to say, that Slabby of yours is real sharp looking.

Black wheels, hmmmm How's that.

Hi Monkey see Eblag now for a Gia framed GSXR. All the best kit, Upperton engine, paintwork, well have a look ! Enjoy.

Yo Dude, I've recently put usd forks & a 17 inch front rim in my Slabby, (also done it on a GSX 1100) On both bykes it made a real difference. The biggest difference is that you get control of the compression damping. When you brake, it stops the forks diving through the floor. But as others say, you do have height differences. I've just measured the distance from the middle of the wheel spindle to the floor for both: Original Slabby wheel is . . . . . . . 305mm 750m wheel is . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295mm So you lose 10mm there. When you measure the length of the forks from the middle of the wheel spindle to the top of the fork leg, excluding the adjusters: Original Slabby fork length . . . . . 765mm I put GSXR 1100W forks in mine because they are the longest I could find & put the clip-ons under the yoke: GSXR1100W fork length . . . . . . . 770mm I found that most of the others, like 1100 M, N & L forks were a lot shorter (740mm). I have no experience fitting them to Slabbies, however when I put the 740mm forks on my GSX it really effected the ground clearance. The stance looked great but it really cramped my style in the corners. I had to have them extended. What I have noticed is the springing in the W forks is much heavier so they hold the bike up better than the original forks. This might be true of the 750 forks but I don't know myself. You pays your money & you makes your choice. Having some sort of compression damping makes a massive improvement & is well worth the hassle. Hope that helps. Anyway, it turns out: length really does matter ! Good luck, Dude.

Hey, cheers for the offer Dude, however, when I recover from the bill, I think I'll give the 40s a go. In theory there's at least 5 horses in there just for the jetting, maybe more when setup right. Blue, my Slabby has a mild bore in it so its probably very similar to yours. Can't see there being that much difference in the carbs, so if you put a Dyno-jet kit in, the jets can't be that far out. Sorry not to be more help, good luck.

Ps: Cheers Blue, I saw the front end & the straight spoked rear wheel & thought you might have done all the hard work for me. Great bike, any clearer photos ?

So, tight & messy.

If fitting a 5.5 inch rim into a Slabby arm is like making love to a beautiful woman, then, what is fitting a 6 inch rim like ?

Hi Blue, Nice Slabby, looks well sorted. Did you put a 6 or 5.5 inch rear rim in it. I've got a 5.5 inch in it now I'm thinking about putting a 6 inch rim in it. If you have in the original arm, any info would be great.

Good numbers cheers Dude, The inlet rubbers were blended for the 40mm's & the head. The 40's & the 38mm's are the same external dia & I was losing the will to live so I haven't blended the inlet side of the carbs yet. Will get round to it, might be a bit more to come for free. But it makes me wonder what the 40mm's would have been like if I had thrown the money at them. Oh well, only one way to find out, maybe !

I thought about that too. I figured that its sucking through a 38mm hole, one intake at a time & that dual pod has a much bigger surface area than a 38mm dia carb mouth. Suction only goes down to a vacuum, unlike pressure. I couldn't see it getting near restricting the air flow. They will probably need cleaning more often. The shot with the K&N's are on 40mm 1100M carbs. They made 130 brake at the back wheel. All the internet people say the 38mm power jet carbs are the big I am. Just had it sorted in December, perfect timing. they make 125 brake at the back wheel & a tiny bit less torque, can't remember exactly now. The 40mm's were real hard work to live with but they were well fecked. Its not the best time of year for balls out, back to back testing, but the 38mm's have made it very nice to scoot about on, motorway commuting filtering, making 'progress' etc. As best I can tell. There's all that thing about smaller diameter giving higher air speeds, blar, blar, blar. Smoke & mirrors, Maths & unicorns. However, IT'S FECKING SORTED NOW, at last. Let us know how it works out. Good luck, Dude.

Hi Dude, I had K & N's but the fit is terrible, you either have to crush them down or notch them Even then they look crap & stick out So I found the Pipers. Piper have been around forever. When they turned up they seemed good quality & at that price, you don't have to clean them, you can just get new (maybe not). Its the stage '3' kit for open pipe no air box for the 750m. Its a big kit, new emulsion tubes, new springs, drills for the slide. Real scary stuff but if you've used them before, its straight forwards enough. The main jets that come with it are too big & the dyno man just kept going down until it was right. He reckons they probably set the jets big so it doesn't run lean & damage the engine. The kit is about 200 quid & a million hours on the dyno. Here's how it looks now. Someone on the site put me onto them Loads better, doesnt take your knee caps off & runs shit-hot. Sorted Dude.

Slabside motor, 38mm powerjet carbs, Dynojet carbs, Pipercross duals. 134 mains 3rd clip Hope that helps.