Nelson

They measure 38mm, are single cable & have the power jet system. they are suppose to be GSXR 750 M 1992

They have the 'power-jet' rudder tube thing, thought they were a 750 carb.

Hi everybody, I've never started a new topic, so please feel free to take the pi$$. I'm trying to fit a set 38mm Mikuni carbs to my Sladsibe 1100 0 So I thought I'd get them a set of new emulsion tubes from Robinsons. However, when they arrived, they are completely different to the originals. The originals have a series of holes down the sides (like every other set I've seen). The new ones are solid tubes. Also the holes down the centre are tiny compared to the originals. The needles don't fit down them. I contacted Robinsons to check, & the part numbers check out, but they are looking into it. The carbs were suppose to be off a standard GSXR 750 with airbox. Anyone any ideas ?

That is one nice Slabside, very nice.

Fred Dibnah's traction engine passed its mot every year & that used chains, having said that, it wasn't the most precise through the bends. New lock-stops look a better solution.

You'll need some steels over those little pigs or you will ruin your nails Marc !

That Norzuki looks f#<king amazing. What a twist, its gonna upset a few purists though, excellent !

What GSXRCol said Dude. My Slabbie was running rough at tick-over & No. 4 pipe was a lot cooler to touch, (spit test). It sounds like your running issues. Tried all sorts, it was driving me mad. Went back to basics, checked the valves, then balanced it, No, 4 was miles out. As I adjusted the carbs in, you could hear it was right. Don't know about the noise though, good luck

Me as well, me as well ! Ive just picked up a Srad 750 rear wheel & I'm looking to put it in a standard 1100 H swing-arm. Stuff like, which calliper hanger, the original pivots around the spindle, the Srad torque arm is fixed to the arm. What's it like clearance wise on the chain, ive got a 170 on a 5.5 rim & its ok, a 180 would be close, real close, bigger rim , more tyre spread. Any help in advance would real helpful

Don't know if this helps, but my 87 Slabby wheel has 5 bolts & the 5.5 I have on the back has 6. It's suppose to be from an 750 L, can't confirm for sure, but the geezer who sold it to me advertised it as 750 L. That's my tuppence hapnies worth.

Yo Dude, Its just occurred to me, any pictures ?

Your right, the position of the front sprocket can not move, being fixed relative to the frame, however the position of the rear sprocket is determined by the wheel spacers. The chain run is more of a swingarm thing. If the rear sprocket spacers are the same on the slabby & the L (& they were) but the calliper outer spacer it a bit bigger, as you squeeze it in, the increase in size is spread across the whole swingarm. This effects the chain run. When I said it needs about 2mm trimming off, that was a rough estimate. I, like you, didn't modify anything either, but its a tight fit with standard set-up, just tighter, when you put the 5.5 in. If you say you've done it on many bikes, (& I assume you have), with out this problem, I don't know what I'm getting wrong. I've only done it twice & BOTH TIMES it was tighter. The slingy yokes do have a stop in the right place, but the WP's are not & need cutting off. Here's some shots of yokes, slingy, the WP in a 87 H head. Slingshot triple.docx

Yo dude I've just done the same thing. That 5.5 just drops right in thing is not quite true. Kokolis is right, the wheel is from a 750 L, I used the disc, calliper & hanger from my slabbie & the spacers from L. The sprocket carriers are the same height if you put them next to each other, the sprocket on the L is 6 bolts. Then it will fit, but, but its real tight, I eased it in with a vernier reaming tool (crow-bar). It needs 2mm shaving off the out-side of the calliper hanger. As it is, the chain is out by 1mm ish. After 4000 miles its polished the outside of the rear sprocket a touch. For the front end, any period usd front end will drop straight in. The steering stems/bearings are all the same. I used a 1100 WP, I think the're the longest. I'e got the measurements all written down. The WP yoke needs the lock stops cutting off, but you can bolt a bit of angle bar across the front using already existing bolt holes. Also the WP top yoke has drillings for the clocks if you're keeping the original mounting set up

Hi Phil the copper pipes (choke circuit) on mine went the same way. I used Araldite, but make sure the pipes are held tight up to their original position with zip-ties, you don't want the stuff getting inside. My repair has lasted 2 years so far, good luck, just take your time.

Mine had these metal plates on the outside. The fairing is supported on both sides. It is visible, but not to stand out, a compromise. The fairing is a mess underneath, I don't know if they were put on before it started to crack, seems unlikely. Maybe put on after it started to crack, to help stabilise it. I've had it 2 years & its not got any worse.

I like the idea of knowing the temp as it goes in, as it passes through, it picks up heat from all over the engine. From the top, its like a measure of how efficiently the oil is taking the heat away. Also, I would think there would be rapid changes, like you go a bit mad, temp goes up, go through a village, temp goes down. The sump is more like an average measure of how hard the engine is working. Having said that, I ragged the arse off it when I get the chance without knowing the oil temp & never really thought about it. Its probably one more thing to think about & it's an easy fit. Here's where the gauge is.

Can't post it yet, I've exceeded my self, that's the first time that's happened, technology, uh. I'll try again. ps, quick 10 mile run, about 70 degree C.

Took a bit longer than anticipated, holidays, family etc., but here's the sender fitted in the sump plug drain. Here's where I put the gauge.

Cheers Johnny Had a look on facebook, they do some nice work.

Beautiful oldskool muscle byke. It looks like it would drag you out of the boozer & give you a good kicking for looking at it the wrong the way.

That is a proper nice slabby. Great catch tank too. do you know the make ?

Hi Alrick Just received an oil temp gauge for my slabby from Koso, it came with a fitting for the main oil gallery on the right-hand side. I didn't like the look of it, (don't really know why I didn't like it) & they were selling an oil sump plug adaptor for about eight quid, so I ordered that as well. Haven't fitted it yet, but got two easy options to go at.