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TonyGee
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Posts posted by TonyGee
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2 minutes ago, E T said:
yeah i already found them but thanks anyway ET
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49 minutes ago, bomberone said:
Is it worth swapping out the brass floats for the plastic ones from the cv' s?
will they swap ? I didn't think they would but Im probably wrong
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18 minutes ago, coombehouse said:
Unfortunately any solution that changes the ratios, whether it's the dodgy Chinese box, a longer lever at the clutch pivot or modifying the bar lever pivot, all result in less travel at the clutch plate lifter. Physics is a pain.
its a shame their isn't a fix for the heavy clutch
its the only thing that spoils the riding, my hands/fingers will not get any better over time only worse so I don't have many options !!!! only sell the bike or change the engine
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
So, I get mis / selectively quoted with regard to the cable used - as being negative! Then you basically agree with the 'quality & longevity' issues by pointing out all the faults, removing it and pondering a 'remade version'. A sorry would be nice, an apology even better
If you go back and read my first post where I said I bought a CHEAP Chinese one says its not gona last so the clue was the CHEAP bit !!!! I bought it as an experiment to see if they work or not, if it didn't its no big money loss. as to the cable and lever i can sort them easy its the clutch drag thats the problem.
as to an apology isn't gona happen as of the constant picking at me and what I post !!!! we can't all be perfect
but I thought the emoji would of made light of my quote
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1 hour ago, HUM said:
Hi
I took a look at the part on eblag
Yes, the cables are a bit puny, but cables with nipples can be made.
If the knurled screws and the inner workings are also on a bicycle level, you can forget it, the mechanics cannot withstand the pressure in the long run, and it comes from CN
I have my doubts.. or is there already experience about the durability?
cheers
Ulithe idea behind it is good but it does have its drawbacks, the quality is low so i can't see it lasting for long !!!! yeah the short cable can be replaced and the weak lever inside looks like it could break at any time, but a new lever could be made out of a stronger material. the other thing ive noticed is it has a slightly shorter pull on the clutch cover lever and im getting clutch drag !!! I will be removing it for now and think on it.
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11 minutes ago, Pjl83 said:
where would you recommend to aim at in terms of watching some racing or being around some events/stalls/attractions etc?
I spent a lot of time on bray hill (just down from the start/finish straight) you are just 3 feet from bikes going past at 180mph
amazing. and theirs lots going on around the pits as well. but the course is pretty dam big so plenty of places to be, parliament square is a good spot too in Ramsey.
one thing though you will need plenty of cash as its not cheap !!!!!!!
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I can't help with where to stay sorry, im lucky I have family who live their, but one thing I do know is you will love it
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them jets are all over the place !!!!! generally the larger 2 jets are in carb 2 & 3 so they run slightly cooler. what does the manual say the jets should be ?
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1 minute ago, Swiss Toni said:
Look for rust along the lower seams, and between the pressings. Everything’s repairable, but you don’t want to have to get the tools out before you start … unless the seller drops his price. Don’t be scared to say what you think is wrong with the bike. If he won’t move, walk away. There’s plenty more out there!
yep as Toni said, let your head rule your heart
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16 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Might be double skinned so only cosmetic , I know my stock bandit headers were weight a tonne !
yep double skinned
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1 hour ago, denisd said:
Welcome lad, I think I see a hole or repaired hole at the top of number 4 downpipe (the right hand side as you sit on the bike), check it out and the rest of the pipes, it might be an expensive replacement for you.
their stainless Denis so can be welded then flattened back then polished
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they are a good reliable bike if its been looked after, service parts are easy to get but you might struggle on things like bodywork if it ever needs it. good luck and enjoy your new bike if you buy it.
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whats the plan now, rebuild or find another engine ?
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for the nay Sayers this is an experiment to see if it works, now I know it does help I will revise the unit and put it at the other end of the clutch cable, also get a better short cable made up with the correct fitting for the cover arm. also the lever inside it looks weak so will make a stronger one.
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51 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I'm not going to bet on longevity when tugging on a GSX clutch!
negativity
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14 minutes ago, johnr said:
if it works, but you dont like the look, why not fit it to the other end of the cable where it mounts on top of the motor?
read post 4 John
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41 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Presumably it's a box containing gears that reduces the effort required to disengage the clutch. A smashing idea. Do you have a link for the supplier of your unit? To hide this box clearly requires a longer input cable and a shorter output cable so maybe specialists such as Venhill may be able to help. How much does the gizmo cost?
its this one Dezza. their are better quality ones but cost more, i just wanted to try them first to see if it helped.
Easy Pull Clutch Activator for Gurls blouse CRF150F/CRF230F 2003-2016 CRF230L 2008-2016 | Eblag
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yeah i thought about fitting it at the other end of the cable but I wanted to see how it felt first, its made from aluminium so it probably would be ok !!!! but the short cables it comes with doesn't have the right fitting for the short arm on the clutch cover.
I did see the cable run mod going round the side of the cylinders but just dont like the look of it
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I love riding my GSX11 but one thing that I don't like is the heavy clutch pull. I have R.A. so its a real struggle to pull when in traffic and just ruins the experience !!! if it wasn't for the R.A. i'd live with it. ive fitted new plates and standard springs, a new cable and even a needle bearing at the clutch lever pivot bolt and its no better. so I thought about using one of them clutchlite things, it only the cheap Chinese one but its made a difference, its about 30% lighter which i can live with , the only draw back is it looks shite on the bars
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Suzuki also fitted 32mm carbs to a 1200 oil cooled engine, when i did mine the increase in bottom end and mid range was much better just where i like it and spend most of the time in, it still pulled 120 + mph and that wasn't full throttle so i would of thought 130 is possible. more than fast enough for me.
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1 hour ago, Fazz711 said:
I think the standard Kat would be painted.
Less protection in the raw from the elements.
are they painted or clear coated ?
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its a case of putting them on and see how it runs, doing a plug chop at different throttle openings will give you a good idea.
I once put a set of 600 bandit carbs on a 1200 bandit, ran great with no re-jetting.
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GSX1100 clutch
in Air Cooled
Posted
did you loose much clutch arm travel with the longer arm Clive ?