wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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I think I might have some DJ instructions forward the 750 somewhere, I will have a look for you
Nice looking bike.
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1 hour ago, mkoppeser said:
I'd agree with twin shocks too. They look kind of weird without I think.
Wraith, sorry, what does RWU stand for?
RWU = right way up fork
ie bandit, slaby or first slingshot 
USD = up side down forks
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+1 with @Fazz711upgrade the running gear to RWU more up to date ones upgrade the rear end with, say gsx1400 keeping it twin shock and a nice loud zorst
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Ok it's sounding more and more like the CDI box. So I will swap the slabside ignition system on and see if I get a spark l will let you know how I get on
Thanks.
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When you say check the black wire from CDI plug did you mean the black/white earth or black/yellow to coil?
The b/W has 00.3 ohm the b/y dose not read.
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This the reading before I turn the engine over, when I turn the engine over its all over the place from 80 up to 190
I will go and check the last bit
I've got a slabside CDI, pickups and atu rota so may stick that on just to see if I get a spark
Got a Dyna 2000 on the kat and never had problems with.
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Well that jumps all over the place
Anything from -2 upto -13
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As engine is turned over, there a small reading on the meter not much .01 to .04 ish
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Same as before, 12v when ignition is turned on then goes down to 9.5v when engine is being turned over.
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Ok then, side light bulb contacted the coil wires and meter red connected to orange/white wire in CDI meter black wire to frame earth. Bulb dose not flicker.
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Ok @Captn
Just put charge battery on only reads 12.8v, so could do with a bit more charge but cranks the engine over ok.
contacted the multimeter positive to the orange/white at the coil and the negative the the frame earth, turned ignition switch on, reads 12v.
turned engine over went down to 9.5v when turning over. Then when I stop turning engine over it went back upto 12v.
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PAIR only on bandits
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No problem, we are all to help each other which ever way we can
Now you've said a good hello try putting a post up in oil cooled with the heading head swap or something like that, it my get more attention of the members who are more in the know
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Will check if I have 12v when battery is charged
Will let you know and thanks for the help
I'm good making things and some may say building things but electrics are not my strong point. -
There are also numbers stamped into the bottom of the head think under the inlet ports, but I don't know if they are different with each model. Someone on here will know.
Have you had a look in the Frankinsten pages? All sorts of grate info there.
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One way (I would think) will be the inlet port size, as the gsxr1100 slabside runs 34mm CV carbs as standard and the gsxr1100 slingshot run a 36mm as standard (apart from the later models that run 40mm) and as you can interchange the carb rubbers between all the oil cooled heads the ports don't line up.
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Just been to a very dark place, my memory
I was told of someone on here that the b12 heads flow better than a gsxr head, they are tappet head and as your doing the valves extra maybe a easyer head to find.
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Ps, mite just put the battery back on the Kat jump start it and go for a essential ride to change the battery
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Battery is now flat, so I've got it on charge
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Welcome to OSS
Can't fully answer your question on heads but I do know the cam covers are different.
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Ok, one step forward I think
just plugged a side light bulb in to each coil (disconnected the orange/white and white plugged build in to them and then same on over coil orange/white and black/yellow) turned engine over and not a flicker from the build on ever coil.
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2 hours ago, Captn said:
You should have a continuous +12 vdc on one tab of each of the ignition coils with ignition switch on. When the engine cranks, the CDI grounds the other tab of each ignition coil to make the coil fire its respective cylinders. This is easiest seen with a analog voltmeter set to DC volts. The needle will pulse from aprox 10 vdc to 0 vdc in a sweeping motion. The pickup signal is an input into the CDI that is used to determine when to generate this ground switching to the coils. Do you have an analog voltmeter? Have you already tested this part?
Not got a analog voltmeter, just this one
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Ok, not getting very far with getting a spark on the project bike
Tested all the wires in the harness and all are good.
Can't find in the manual on how to test the cdi and pickups?
So.
1. How do I test the cdi (gsx1100f)
2. How do I test the pickup ( have put multimeter on yellow to earth turn engine on change same with the blue, also put multimeter to both yellow and blue turned engine no change)
It's a b12 motor with b12 pickup, gsxr1100k harness, gsxr 4 wire ignition, gsx1100f power screen cdi, bandit l/h switch gear and for now gsxr slingshot r/h switch gear. All the other electoral parts are working just no spark.
I have got slabside cdi pickups and rota which I can put on but would like to know what is wrong with the above
Thanks.
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Years ago had a gsxr750 slingshot V&H zorst on my GS1000. Had to elongate the bolt holes on the collars. The 1100 down pipes are longer than the 750, also some of the non performance zorsts have a smaller diameter down pipe then the air cooled 40mm on oil 44mm on air.
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92 gsxr 750 carb jet recommendations
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Found them
Don't forget, if the emulsion tubes are ovaled the needles may also be worn at the top where they go through the slide.
Hope this helps
I know when a set of carbs I had had ovaled emulsion tubes the lower to mid range was very stuttery