wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Welcome to OSS,
There been quite a lot of people in the project pages who have done gsx750es (UK name
) so someone will be a long to help.
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Are you wanting to have a headlight or not?
If not, it's easy. Make brackets from the top and bottom yokes (I used the pitch bolts on the yokes).
The nice thing these days if you want headlight, you can get nice small custom headlights, to sit ever side or top or bottom of the cooler.
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@TonyGee do you know the length of push rod you used ?
I understand that the standard b12 push Rob is the wrong length?
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Welcome to OSS,
This is one if not the best bike forums around and ever day is a skool day on here.
Someone will be along to answer your question soon.
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Plugs
in Oil Cooled
What for?
Gsxr1100/b12/gsx1100f all run the same standard plug and should come gap preset.
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1 hour ago, vizman said:
No body likes a grass….
One rule for one same rule for all,
or don't wine about Hayabusa and cafe racers
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5 minutes ago, Dezza said:
I want my tyres to look all nice and shiny: what is the best grade of oil to polish them with?
WD40 works well
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2 hours ago, Dezza said:
.
Anyway, I thought 'What tyres etc.?' was a rule violation.....
Yes so did I.
Last time I put a post up (years ago) about tyres etc it was deleted with in seconds, catch up mods.
Ps had a bike with a 3.5" rim front but had a 130/70 on it and it would not go round corners.
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Don't you love wiring, it always look worst at the start.
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You can check if the coils are getting a pulse by getting a side light bulb and holder, contact it to the wires going to coil (one coil at a time) turn the engine over, if the bulb flashes you're getting a single to the coil. Quick and easy way
If you only got a spark on number 1 cyclinder, it could be bad plugs or HT leads. Try it again but use the same plug for each cylinder to keep a constant leave.
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Pics may help
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32 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
I was thinking of filing some teeth in them, what do you think ?
Proper Jack Shit
(Bloodruners if people don't know) Google it
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Fu#k me, that's quick work
What was it, do the bike or the washing up
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In mm
total length 150mm
Front size 65mm
Rear size 30mm
APX 10mm thick
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If someone doesn't beat me to it, I will get some sizes for you tomorrow
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
this was quite a few years ago wraith, they where off an old xs750 he was doing up. he ended up getting another set from our local breakers
O the good old days when there where bike breakers you could go and get the parts off instead of them just selling on that site
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Caustic soda is very good for removing anodising but don't leave them in to long
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3 hours ago, TonyGee said:
just dont do what my brother in law did, left em in a tub of caustic soda over night !!!! you can guess what happened
take it he is looking for a new set
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Wow that's a old post
Sorted with new cable
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You should still get a vacuum/compression even if not firing.
If, like you say you can remove 3 and 4 plug caps and no difference in engine running, it won't be the ignition itself but more like bad HT or caps fault.
I had on one of my bikes, two plugs go on me, the engine was still running and the down pipes where getting worm but not hot like the other two, Evey now and then they would kick in and make the engine run sweet.
So always worth starting at the start and making sure the basic is there.
You could always apart some Duck oil around the HT and plug caps, if there is a crack the duck oil will smoke at that point.
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15 hours ago, StevieB said:
I was thinking as removing the plug caps on 1&2 it dropped the revs showed these cylinders were at fault, and 3&4 running as they should be showed they were good. Confused!
And didn't think of trying down pipe temps? They're wrapped so may not work but will try.
Didnt know u could swap plug leads like that, thought would be totally different firing sequence.
A couple of ideas to try.
Was thinking to undo all carb clamps and reseat them, hopefully stop any inlet rubber leaks.
One of my work friends has a smoke tester, thought maybe try that through the airbox to test for leaks.
Still not convinced if I have an air/fuel problem or ignition. Think it will be a longer project to resurrect than I first thought!
Seen there is a few similar problems on here for other people. May end up having to renew all carb inlet and outlet rubbers long term.
Thanks.
Simple basics.
You say you have a 4 cyclinder GS that rev up for now reason, you say if you remove cyclinder 3/4 plug caps there is no change to it running.
That say to me your only running on 2 cylinders and when it revs up its when it fires on all 4.
Checking that all 4 down pipes are at the same temperature will tell you if all 4 cylinders are fireing.
If not swap the HT leads from 1 to 4 (same coil) and 2 to 3 (same coil) this will help tell you if it's a ignition or carb/inlet/fuel problem
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Sounds like you have a strange one. As you say air leakage should be a constant.
You say when you remove the plug caps off number 1 or number 2 cylinders you see a difference but not when you remove 3/4, which you would think that 3 and 4 cylinders or not running, are all exhaust down pipes running hot ever when it's running right or when it's rev high?
Have you tryed swapping the HT leads around ie putting 4 onto 1 and 3 onto 2?
Then see if it still does the same thing on the same cylinders when you remove the caps.
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Is the breather hole in the tank cap block
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Misc 1052 engine id wierdness
in Oil Cooled
Posted
If it is just on loan and it runs, and you will be giving the engine back as a runner what's the problem ?