matt

Hi, Glad you like it. There are various ways to convert the back end, mine was done about 20 years ago by BigCC to take a slingshot arm and shock, it looks pretty basic with new brackets welded onto the upper and lower frame cross rails to take the top shock mounting and the lower shock linkage. From what I have seen on various build threads since there are prettier and probably better engineered ways of doing it. The bandit arm that I put in during the last update just needed some different spindle spacers to fit it in place of the slingshot arm, I also swapped out the old slingshot shock for a late model GSXR750 one.

Once I sorted out the dowel on mine, the starter clutch has been fine, even with the standard Suzuki bolts. I have just fitted an Ignitech unit, you can set up how many times the engine turns over before it fires, I've got it set to 4 and it has stopped the engine from kicking back.

I tried, it fits in with some spacers, but due to the bracing on the swingarm it hits on the rear frame rails, unless you jack up the back. I got to the stage where to get a sensible ride height, I would have had to cut off the frame rails and reposition them , which I didn't want to do, so ended up fitting a 1200 Blandit arm instead.

Hi, No temperature gauge so hard to tell, just done 2.5K miles around Europe with no issues and the weather was hot. As Paul says 19 row seems to be the size to go for as a replacement, although you do need to mount it as high and as close to the frame as possible as there is not much clearance on the front wheel on full suspension compression.

I recently fitted a 19 row Mocal on my 7/11, cheapest place I found was a place called Matt Lewis Racing (no connection), I initially though their price was plus VAT, but it was already included:) http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/product.php/1199/1218/oil_cooler___matt_lewis_racing

I have just changed all of the no. 31 bearings on my 750M, I got them from Marksman, the ones that came out had exactly the same code printed on them as the new ones. http://shop.marksman-ind.com/bhm2024jau--20x27x235mm-sealed-13520-p.asp No. 29 is a spherical bearing, I did find one on their site which was about 0.5mm narrower, but didn't order it, not sure whether that size difference would be a problem or not.

Akra headers and link pipe with a Scorpion end can on the 7/11. After 10 years I have just given them the Harpic treatment and they came up surprising well

Hi, It sounds like the stutter function of the box is engaged, if you adjust the lo limit do the revs as which it starts coughing and popping alter? It may be that your clutch switch is permanately closed circuit. I had one on my 7/11 a few years ago but only used it as a rev limiter.

The O-rings are still coming up at £1.30, part number 09280-22016.

Looks like it is only the 750 ones that are discounted, typical

I certainly had a bit of a job getting mine out, but the ends looked OK, I'll check them when they are out again. I just checked the price for new ones and if £33 is the discounted price, how much are they normally?

I've got some red rubber grease, I'll give it a go when I put it back together. I think they may already be a slight taper on those holes, they seemed pretty tight though, maybe the O-ring got pushed out of its groove on the way in. Cheers.

Mine were a pain to get out and didn't go back too easily either, may give the holes a bit of clean up this time to make sure there's no corrosion roughing up the surfaces. Fingers crossed for yours.

Hi all, just finished putting my 1100 engine back together after putting new rings in and sorting out some leaking valves, fired it up only to find one of the front oil drain pipes leaking, bugger!! I did use new O-rings when I re-installed them, however they were a right pain to get back in, so can only think I have damaged the new O-rings. I have got some new ones on the way, luckily Robinsons are currently knocking them out at £1.30, so hope to get the head off and re-assemble it all over the long weekend. Is there a trick to get them back in? The manual mentions applying Suzuki A grease, is this some super slippy stuff?, I used a smear of the standard Castrol LM. I was wondering whether sticking them in the freezer for a bit may help? Any advice would be welcome. Cheers.

They look positively clean compared to the inlet valves I recently pulled out of my GSXR, they had lumps of crap on them. Funny thing was it hadn't even been noticeably smoking, new valve stem seals fitted now, so hopefully should improve matters. It might even spin up quicker without all that weight on the valves:)

Oh well, I've got them now, I'll stick them in and see how we go.

That's typical, I just ordered a set of APE ones for my 1127, not sure whether they are better than stock?

Thanks for the advice, I have given the studs a good coating in penetrating fluid and hopefully it will do the job. I suspect it is those dowels, I have got a slight bit of movement along the back edge of the block, it is the front where the dowels are that doesn't seem to have moved at all. Cheers.

Hi all and a Happy New Year. In the middle of stripping down my GSXR1127 motor to sort out the low compression and a couple of leaking valves but cannot get the cylinders off. I have undone the nut on the front but it still seems like something is stopping them coming off, there is a slight gap appearing where they meet the cases but I just cannot get them to move any further. I wouldn't have thought once the head was off there would be much holding them in place I have also got another problem with the front oil drain pipes being seized in place, so was also wondering how people usually get those out? I appreciate that the oil pipes will probably have to be removed to get the cylinders off, but was hoping to at least get the cylinders free. Any suggestions would be greatly received. Cheers Matt.

I had the same problem with mine some years ago with the clutch becoming loose and the bolts shearing, after rebuilding it a couple of times I eventually discovered that the dowel pin that locates the starter clutch onto the rotor was the same length as the depth of the hole in the back of the clutch plate. It was gradually working its way down the hole until it was no longer in the rotor at all, then there was nothing to stop any sideways movement in the starter clutch, after a few starts it would loosen off the mounting bolts and eventually either be too loose to work or shear the bolts. You can either fit a longer dowel pin or do what I did and drip some JB weld down the hole, I have had no problems since and I am using standard Suzuki bolts. When you have it apart first check that the dowel is actually present, and then fit it into the back of the starter clutch and see if it drops all the way in, I never realised there was a problem as I always used to fit the pin into the rotor before I put the clutch on.

They go on top of the bearing before you put the big locknut on, you might not need all of them, depends how long your stem is.

Things are looking up, just done another compression test after warming the engine up (probably should have done that in the first place), readings on all cylinders are now between 150 & 160 psi. The engine has done at least 50K miles, so it looks like all the cylinders are as good or bad as each other. Hopefully if I get time this weekend I will get a chance to check the valve clearances. One thing I did find while I was playing around with it were a couple of dodgy HT lead connectors, which probably havent improved the way it's been running.

Hi, have seen about the dot heads, but to be honest, by the time I've bought 1200 cylinders and pistons plus a dot head, it will probably have been cheaper to just splash out on new rings and hone my gsxr cylinders. Once I know what the problem is with my engine I'll be able to make some decisions. Cheers.

Yes, I've seen some on there, only problem is I dont have a compressor to connect it up to.