matt

That's a shame, I was hoping the GSXR head was where the extra compression came from. I will see what I find over the weekend. Cheers.

I had 130 psi on three cylinders and about 70 on the fourth, which went up to 120 when i put some oil down it. Even if its a sticking valve on the low one, the others don't look too good:) Unfortunately I don't have the gear for a leak down test, but hope to have the valve cover off this weekend to check all the clearances.

Hi, having recently done a compression test on my 1127M motor and got some pretty low scores, It looks like I might have to do some work on it. As a possible budget option, I was thinking about swapping my block and pistons for the ones from a low mileage 1200 Bandit, I have done a search and the general consensus is that the compression ratio will be less. Would this still be the case if I am using the GSXR1100M head? I am also wondering if I will need to open out the cases slightly to get the Bandit liners in. If anyone has done it and can advise that will be great. Cheers Matt.

Hi, sounds like one of those very frustrating problems. The ignition rotor on the end of the crank should locate on a pin, so there is only one way it can be fitted. As long as you rotate the crank so that the marks on the rotor line up with the pickups and then check the camshaft positions, the timing will be correct. if you are getting a spark at the plugs and fuel into the engine, have you double checked that you have the HT leads going to the correct cylinders? Or if the leads are correct, that the coils are connected up to the right wires? If not then you may have the plugs sparking 180 degrees out on all cylinders. I've done that, not much happens:) Hope that helps. Matt.

I remember the first time I stripped down my EFE engine, that had a broken bottom guide. I can only assume it gets smashed if the cam chain goes slack.

Did mine recently, as above, screw it in by hand until you can feel it pushing the against the cam chain, then slowly turn the engine over by hand, you should feel the cam chain go slack, screw in the adjuster further until you feel it push against the cam chain again. back the tensioner off 1/4 turn and lock it up.

I have dug out my original needles from the 38mm 750 carbs and they have 6ZD7 stamped on them, which matches up with the manual. Here's a picture of one of them, they are a bit worn, but they appear to have more of a taper than the ones in Beams picture, it may just be the light. Even with all the hassle, its better than riding a CX 500

The needles will have to be either Mikuni or Factory Pro, Dynojet ones will probably be the same as what you currently have and wont fit the new tubes. Out of interest, why are you changing the tubes, are they worn out? If the carbs have currently got a DJ kit fitted, I'd see how they run, then maybe stick some new bits in.

I've been running them since 2011, probably done about 8000 miles with no problems. I do have factory pro needles fitted, but it looks like you're going to need some new needles if you want to fit them.

When I got my last set of emulsion tubes and they did'nt have the small holes drilled in them, I queried it with Andy at NRP carbs , he advised that the 631 0-8 tubes were definitely the correct ones for the 750M carbs.

The last couple of sets of emulsion tubes I've had didn't have the holes drilled along the tube. That needle looks a bit odd, shouldnt it be tapered? Also the original emulsion tube in the centre of your photo, has it still got he main jet screwed into the end of it?

I took the head off yesterday and the gasket was all in one piece, so I could reuse it. The strange thing is that printed on the gasket was Victor Reinz AFM, which is a different type to what you mentioned above, but it was supplied in a Cometic packet. Anyway, i have reinstalled it with sealant around the oilways and hopefully it will cure the oil leaks. Hope to test it later this week. Cheers

Hi, Thanks for the reply, it is the 'graphite' type, didn't use any sealant so that could well be the cause of my problem. Is the black suzuki bond sealant alright for the job? From previous stripdowns, the gasket isn't very reusable so may have to get a new one.

Hi all, I have done a few miles on my EFE but have noticed oil seaping out of the head gasket on both sides of the motor, I have checked the front of the engine to make sure it is not leaking there and being blown round the side, but that is all dry. I hoped that it may just need the head nuts re-torquing, but have just checked them and they are all 40Nm as the manual states. The engine is running a 1230 kit with a cometic gasket, should these be installed differently to the standard gasket with a maybe a higher torque on the head nuts? I have the standard studs installed, so dont want to over tighten them. If anyone can advise that will be great. Cheers Matt.

Cheers, I allways loved the red & black and the way the paintwork design followed the lines of the bike.

I haven't put many miles on it yet, but the front end seems ok. I was thinking I might have to get a stepped top yoke, but there don't seem to be any clearance issues.

Thanks, It is a Jaygui exhaust and the air box has gone, it has individual K & N's with a stage 3 dynajet kit..

It turned out just how I wanted it, surprising how well the original paint work has stood up to the test of time.

A couple more, unfortunately is has just been too sunny, most of the ones I took on my phone were too bright or had reflections from the shiny bits.

After a bit of a drawn out rebuild over the last year or so, my EFE is now MOT'd and back on the road. I parked it up about 10 years ago when the engine developed an ominous noise, it just took longer than expected to get round to sorting it out. Fitted the TL1000 front end and Bandit rear, new exhaust and various other bits and pieces, It now runs surprising well, just need to tweak the carbs a bit. Certainly feels good to be back on the old girl, forgot what air cooled power felt like:)

Hi, It could well be the ignitor unit, I had a similar problem a few weeks back with the engine missing. Like you I was getting sparks on all plugs, but it did'nt always seem to be sparking at the right time or every time on a couple of cylinders. I have been rebuilding my bike over the last year or so, so this was the first time it had been run for a few years, I had been using a Dyna S, but thought I would go back to the standard ignition to do away with the mechanical advance. I have now refitted the Dyna S and it all works perfectly. I think I may have cooked my ignitor unit as when I first started the engine, I was getting about 17 volts across the battery due to a duff regulator. Have you checked the voltage you are getting from the regulator on yours?

Hi, I just rebuilt my loom with superseal connectors, had a lot of problems with making sure the pins were fully located in the housings. If they don't click in properly, when you push the connectors together you can end up pushing the pins out the other side and not getting a proper connection. I ended up changing some of the superseal connectors for the standard block connectors.

Nice one, no wonder Yoshi pipes are so expensive:)

I think the reason the headers are welded halfway down is because they are tapered and that's probably the only way they can do it. With the recommendations looks like I will be contacting Jaygui about my new pipe then:)

I hope they havent, i was looking to order one for my EFE in the next month or so:(