GSX1100dreamn

The more idiot gauges I have, exactly.

carbyghettos lol. clever lathe and TIG yep I'm tapping out.

Rode to work this arvo 12 deg ambient and 5 km into trip lane filtering and I was seeing 101deg onto the temp gauge. It is mounted in the the oil gallery inlet side in the head.

Thats the spirit Don't make me say it... I've never had jetting issues with my oh thats right throttlebodies, EFI. Maybe you can put EFI on and make up some carby looking covers to go over the throttlebodies to give the look of carbys, you know like the boy racer car guys who put Brembo brake caliper covers on their cars. Admin please delete if you want, thankyou.

Ride faster on hot days so as to get more air flow... oh DO NOT give riding instructions. I too ride in peak hour traffic and have been chasing a cooler bike. I thought about a bigger Suzuki cooler but for a second hand one they seemed expensive and they are second hand. I found a supplier of cheap new aftermarket ones and of a size I wanted. Did start with a tiny wrecker cooler. Then a light duty 285mm wide. Now a heavy duty same width just a bit longer, Much cooler.

The 10 km commute to work consists of, 5 km at 70 km/h streets 4th gear 3500rpm/ 5th 300rpm. 5 km at 50 km/h streets 3rd gear 3250 rpm. Yawn. The weekend parked in a garage waiting for Monday.

Standard 10.25 cr. standard cams but degreed in at 106 deg. Was looking at commuter street rideability that is why the specs are a bit tame just splashed out on CC.

My daily GSX is 1260 in standard GSX block.

Like you my bike my bike is 1260 standard and am always looking to tinker and not necessarily looking for big HP. But pretty my bike was never going to be, so it can all be done but unlike mine actually put time in aesthetics as well as function. So my purpose of EFI was I like it and I was looking to improve the start/rideability of my commuter bike. I have gained no performance and if anything it subdued the low down acceleration on the 38 c.v. but made the overall engine performance turbine smooth. I like to come out in the morning and be able to do this while I get ready. And while I dont like to rev the engine when cold this just shows that smooth rideabililty is available from the get go. Anyways cheers Andrew.

why would you want to put all that electrictrickery shit on a classic air cooled engine ???????? this is JUST a question before anyone gets on their fucking high horse so does the smallish amount of gain in power/performance out way the expense and hassle of fitting a F.I. system to an old air cooled engine ? for me im not looking for big BHP for road use, my old 1100 has enough for me to get about on and helps keep my licence (and life) a bit longer I'd prefer to spend my money on making the bike look good and ride safer when suzuki started with F.I. i had a bit of a nightmare with early problems with the systems, and fixing a bike with a laptop plugged in is not my idea of fun yeah im old school. im also having another nightmare with the F'I' on my fecking car !!!!!! yes I know when its working its better than carbs but when its not it can be a twat to fix. BUT THATS JUST MY OPINION !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Geez Tony, remember you started this high horse opinion shit with your first constructive post above. Gixxer1460/Arttu and the convict down under have all been giving constructive advice/links here and elsewhere on the forum. Lets not deviate highjack away from Busa ash question/ thread. another helping of bread and water.... yes please.

Yeah I mean how hard can it be... seriously cheap copy and paste a 07 bandit sequential (Suzuki have done the hard work for you) onto a GSX + kawa/ arttu trigger. or $$$$ bespoke aftermarket parts/ full setup/ custom/ tune/ log. I'll get me popcorn.

For a basic backyard setup like mine $1500 AUD. That includes the complete donor bike.

That statement makes me feel old, 'electrickery' and air cooled. You know like when the air cooled 2 valve points ignition went to air cooled 4 valve ELECTRONIC ignition. Don't get me started on those new fangled oil cooled bikes.

Is the GSX motor going to be N/A or turbo. And yes my Kat is EFI. Below is the thread, Its a very simple backyard setup, took me 6 months planning 4 days to convert and have been using it for 3 years of commuting no problems so far. Used a 07 1250 Bandit as donor.

I imagined this is how my build was going to be like (minus turbo) and my backyard tight arse reality set in... ... cool story. Cheers Andrew.

I ran into the same problem 2 years ago but did a 'temporary' fix until I get some different drill bits. 'temporary'... 2 years ago... oh well.

If you look at the live data screen shot of my standard mapping Bandit 1250 it has around 1.5ms injection time. In the video it shows start up and then idle.

And here is Australia to the black case engines were the large taper, the rotor on mine is 127mm in diameter and the stator is 103mm.

Strange/ normal/ special , Just like our Suzuki's Googled FB NY500 looks like cool place to go.

I had to do a quick check of your country location when I saw Dick Johnsons #17 Sierra in the background. Stuff turns up in the strangest places. Nice bike.

That would explain the MAP sensor in the #1 throttlebody on mine. Yes not a true sequential in the sense but not the early 80's EFI strictly group injection of past where companion cylinder injector earths were literally joined for simultaneous operation.

talking about sequential injection or banked/group I did an experiment on my stock 2007 1250 ECU, it does not run a cam sensor. In the factory manual it lists the possible fault codes and it has listings for each individual coil and injector. In the failsafe section it mentions that if you lose 1 coil it will cut the fuel to that affected coil and continue to run on the other 3 cylinders. This tells me that the ECU knows each individual injector and coil and if its functioning. I used a healtech to look at live data and it to showed different injector pulses for individual injectors. So finally today I worked out how to 'see' the injectors running sequentially and see it cut fuel to the affected injector when a coil fails. I placed a LED light inline of injectors #1 and #4 (companion cylinders) to see the injector stop when the coil was disconnected. This video shows a non cam sensor EFI running and detecting and disabling #1 injector when I disconnect #1 coil, proving that each coil/injector have individual drivers. Here is the ECU input/output diagram. I had a thought/guess as to how the ECU knows what is #1 cylinder without an input from a cam sensor. It knows on initial start up and first running where #1 and #4 by default by the trigger wheel so I imagine it would be at first running batch style injection to get it running until it sees a constant rpm and it could then calculate from the trigger wheel position (and now we know it has individual drivers for the injectors from the video) it could use the #1 injector driver as its position input and fire the #1 injector driver only on the next rotation timing position for #1-#4 and thus starts the sequential sequencing as it knows the firing order and is counting trigger wheel position for the other cylinders. Arttu my trigger wheel is timed when at #1 TDC the pickup is positioned between tooth 7 and 8 where the red mark is above, the arrow on the trigger wheel is also correct for engine rotation. So #1 TDC the sensor is between tooth 7 and 8 after the -2 gap. Phew.

Hi Arttu, your 24-2 trigger wheels what is the static position of the -2 gap when No1 is at TDC. Regards Andrew.

I feel like I am reading the Penthouse forum pages reading the EFI banter.... Errr whatever Penthouse forum is, so my friend told me. keep it up...hehe.

Google shit https://japan.webike.net/products/23123109.html