manden

Is an slingshot fork on an slabside a straigt swap? Cant find a "search" function so i ask the obvious and probably often answared question :(

it wonte write e b a y

i found some on Eblag. not even that expensive

A guy named ichiban motors on youtube has a good video of how to revieve old rubber stuff

Bumpy freeways at high speed. I have to get off my bike to adjust

Rubbers are expensive as fuck

I think the rs36 is 60mm od

I got an cheap afermarket one, and it works just fine. Mostly in lowest setting

Unstall fi if you can. Megasqirt with tb' s and mappable fuel and coil on plug ignition

Thanks m8. Theyre cheaper too

I think the lash has been adjusted wrongly. I dont know where its supposed to hit the ramp, but its quite important that it hits the right place.

Mine is 1108.6cc, modern 78mm pistons, balanced, ported head with combustion chambers, 11.7 comp, bst36ss with short stacks and ramair filters, vh sidewinder thats open. I weigh 120+ and if im all the way over the tank it lifts the front wheel with some wheelspin from 9 to12k in 2 gear. It used to have 135 jets and it couldnt pull anything in 4th and 5th. It really pulls well now. Ill get a bung welded in the collector so i can get an wideband on it and stop the guesswork

but when mapping n/a fi its almost always most power at lambda 8.8 across the board with a little richer at peak torque and a little leaner around peak hp. very low gears might be a little leaner overall

when i go full throttle and then go to 7/8th throttle it pulls hard. its mikunis suggested test for rich or lean. i would prefer to use an wideband but i have no bung on my collector

wich crank is strongest? some say 58mm and others say 59mm. one of them should break around 160 wheel hp. yoshimura only used the 58mm

im having mine evaluated by the insurance company asap.

i think i have some electrical issues actually. first my low beam went, and on my way home tonight my high beam went. the bulp is a phillips and is 3 weeks old. and there has been made alot of shit with the bike through time so ill try and look it over when i adjust the valves and change the brak in oil with the motul synthetic. btw should i go with 300v or 7100?

i found this site about jetting katanas. has anyone tried with leaner center cylinders? http://www.katriders.com/wiki/index.php?title=Carburetor_Settings_and_Specifications

haha. same bore spacing and all. thats what the 68mm got going for it. it appears as its only the snout that differs between the 58mm gsxr and the 68mm gsx1400 cranks. am i wrong?

aint 1250 water cooled?

im currently running 78mm pistons, and would like to keep thje bore as small as possible to be able to run 95 octane. i hope to do all the work my self and keep cost "realistic"

im really thinking of buying an say what now!? case and an 68mm crank and have it as a winter project. it would be awesome with 68mm stroke, its like an busa.

i was thinking on repin an 30 amp fuse and use instead. should it be a problem? i found out the the low beam also went when the relay shut down, so could be charging spikes or over charging. dunno

i have talked with sigma, and they said that they have send me a california spec kit and that they will send me a new kit for euro spec with 45 pilots and 160 mains.

What mods will it take to install the 68mm crank?