Gixer1460
-
Posts
5,434 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Gixer1460
-
-
Personally i'd say that's a bit tall for a N/A EFE even tuned. I used 45/17 with a turbo on road and sprinty bike - had 210hp and about 90ftlbs torque. Without a lot of torque available, I tend to like anything that gives a near 3:1 ratio......42/14, 45/15, 48/16, 51/17 and 54/18 for example.
-
10 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
I guess i'm fucked with a Dyna-S then!
Why? A Dyna 'S' is designed to be used with a ATU. If its on an EFE engine without one, then THATS a really bad choice! That manual timing adjustment gizmo was originally designed for ProStock engines with stupid high CR's - knock the timing back to near TDC and it'll work good
-
1
-
-
Er - no and no and use a DVM across the COP terminals - all will usually be sub 1,3 ohms.
-
1
-
-
26 minutes ago, Sheep said:
.........you do not want the live connection arcing on a fuel tank
Oh go on - just for the crac with pictures of course!
-
3
-
-
Yep!
-
Alternate and diagonal - not critical, just don't over-tighten!
-
Use one of the cam lines to feed turbot and split the other with a tee piece the two short lines to cams.
-
7 hours ago, boilerdude said:
well that would mean you're using gen 2 busa rods as well would it not?
efe has same small end as 1st gen busa yes?
WTF are you talking about ? ? ? Thread title is about 1428 GSX with questions about stock liners which won't work, then start talking about Busa pistons which don't achieve that capacity. Now you are wanting to swop a shell bearing rod on to a roller bearing crank ! ! ! No wonder you had such a f**kin drama fitting a rear wheel !
-
7
-
-
I really don't believe any of the std 1127 / 1157 liners will bore out to 83mm - way to thin.
-
Yep - all integral, but not a difficult job.
-
1 hour ago, Macduff said:
Just a side note for Slabby CDi (not slingshot) you need to consider adding suitable resistors in series with the coil pairs to get the primary resistance up to a number that won’t cause issues for the slabby CDi. I used 2.2ohm 50watt resistors in my slabby CoP loom (posted in a thread in oil cooled earlier this year).
These coils confuse me or at least how they get wired up! Average COP resistance is 0.7 - 1.2 ohms @ 12v and if connected in series they share the 12v so get 6v each but add the resistance's so total equals anything between 1.4 and 2.4 ohms - so really need additional resistance in series which would pull overall volts down?
If wired parallel, then the voltage will be maintained at 12v to both but resistance is halved (if I remember electrical theory correctly!) so you'd need to add a 6 or 7 ohm resistance, also in parallel, to get something like a 3-4 ohm system draw to keep the CDI happy - or am I completely barking on this?
-
6 hours ago, boilerdude said:
Well thats only partly the motor to blame. Nitrous does not discriminate. Nitrous destroys.
It wasn't the squeeze that killed it - it was a million year old engine design and rider with a limp left foot or having
shift finger reactions measured with an egg timer LOL!
-
2
-
-
3 hours ago, bigyellowthing said:
Once again Old Skool is best.
Due to the design of the sump drain will drill and tap to next size. The casting has slots to allow oil drainage which would be blocked by inserts like helicoils and I'm a bit paranoid about plug failure leading to expensive and depressing consideration of parts prices..
Slot or not - makes no difference to oil draining, Its a big hole and oil comes out - end of story!
A helicoil will see out the life of the bike unless you are a gorilla with the spanners!
-
1
-
-
Well there's yer problem - electrical init! ......................................................................... the genny's fallen off!
By the look at the end of that crank it didn't stop spinning too quickly - notice any vibration LOL!
-
I really did check on the microfische first - guess I went too early! + I knew mine didn't have it hence the welding LOL!
-
On 11/2/2017 at 8:44 AM, matt said:
I had the same problem with mine some years ago with the clutch becoming loose and the bolts shearing, after rebuilding it a couple of times I eventually discovered that the dowel pin that locates the starter clutch onto the rotor was the same length as the depth of the hole in the back of the clutch plate.
It was gradually working its way down the hole until it was no longer in the rotor at all, then there was nothing to stop any sideways movement in the starter clutch, after a few starts it would loosen off the mounting bolts and eventually either be too loose to work or shear the bolts.
You can either fit a longer dowel pin or do what I did and drip some JB weld down the hole, I have had no problems since and I am using standard Suzuki bolts.
When you have it apart first check that the dowel is actually present, and then fit it into the back of the starter clutch and see if it drops all the way in, I never realised there was a problem as I always used to fit the pin into the rotor before I put the clutch on.
I don't doubt what you have but there was never a dowel fitted from the factory so I believe you've discovered a poorly executed 'diy fix'. Its unlikely the factory would over depth a hole to the extent that the 'fix' would no longer function as intended.
A dowelled rotor is a common 'DIY' fix...............................if you haven't got a welder LOL!
-
2 hours ago, Wilf said:
Starter clutch ok?
Obviously not i'd say! Knackered springs / worn rollers / scored back plate / distorted case. The Suzuki mount bolts are supposed to be be the dogs danglies being UHT - but they break same as other lesser bolts / screws. I resorted to stainless screws and 3No tack welds onto rotor!
-
1 hour ago, Duckndive said:
Been there done that...............
I recall it had a 5 speed in it when Garry had it.....and he must have had a job lot of red wire too ............
And was it..................interesting I mean? Can't fathom why single coloured wire would ever be used - unless you've a brain the size of a planet or Brad O'Connor to keep track of what goes where!
-
2
-
-
Has it still got the 3 speed gearbox cos that'll be interesting for a street bike?
-
1
-
-
Agreed - schedule 40 cast bends = weight and difficult fabrication. 316 or better pre-bends easier. I'd pair up 2&3 into the back and have 1&4 ram's horn around frame and pair into the front. Pre-bends will help getting turbo higher also - piccy isn't the best but certainly not the worst for information purposes.
-
1
-
-
Std coils or aftermarket? Does the misfire occur 2 or 3 days in a row whatever CDI is fitted? Maybe coil breakdown through heat is a possibility - one pair or cylinders or across all 4?
Mind you running any engine at 2 million revs is gonna lead to issues LOL! But 2000 is fairly low for electrics to give up - maybe it is gunge in a carb - idle / pilot circuits?
-
That is a pretty damn good lookin' motorsickle - put it to bed for the winter, fresh for springtime.
-
12 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
All might be a bit academic, running out f time, money, space and enthusiasm
somethings got to give,
Ah well - the wife will have to go then - distraction, costs money to run, needs servicing now and then.
-
2
-
-
You said complete stock system - hence the comment!
Starter Motor upgrade for GS1000 bored to 11
in Air Cooled
Posted
Clever boy - gold star.