Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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9 hours ago, colinworth79 said:
the units have data logging . My LM1 has 45 min you can then plug in the computer and see .
Ha Ha Ha - perfect for reliving the moment when your engine melted in the comfort of an old arm chair with a mug o' tea!
A dyno is definitely the place for WOT tuning turbo's IMO!
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Nice, Tidy solution as I hate the ones hanging below or above the headlights !
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11 hours ago, wraith said:
Would a gsxr1300 Hayabusa down pips fit? Just thinking as I have a set of gsxr1000 on my oilcooled 1127 kat with some tweaking.
Wrong angles, wrong diameter, wrong height - anything else............it'll be wrong!
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Agreed - a blow thro only needs slightly bigger MJ's than for NA. And very surprised if std miki's are holding 3 psi fuel pressure - most leak / pass fuel anything approaching 2psi LOL!
And the the fuckin back end of the bike strapped on the dyno - that was plain dangerous!
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Tidy - and could work as chain oiler as well - bonus!
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Not to familiar with Jap market GSX 250 but the top picture is the head breather, but bottom picture - not known as the bigger family do not have crankcase breathers at all, let alone in that location! The head should have a hose that vents into the airbox in front of the carbs so fumes are drawn into the motor to be burnt.
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So what if the swingarm isn't centered or parallel to the front wheel? The parallel bars method really is the quickest and correct way to get wheels in line THEN you worry about chain alignment. Vizman for POTUS LOL!
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Maybe not yet ............................but you're gonna need MORE brakes at the front - trust me!
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10 hours ago, no class said:
Don't those model years have a relay ?
Mine hasn't!
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The whole front fairing is on its own sub-loom with a black 9? pin plug & socket near the head stock - i'd start here and test forward and back.
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Don't believe GSXR liners will go to 1246 - you need Blandit barrels for that, GSXR would be waaaaay too thin IMO!
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I've not known anyone go through the brass plug which is just a plug for the bored gallery behind - save the aggro and just double line from the RHS, job done.......... or single line from gallery to a tee piece to equal length hoses up to cam links...... if you are OCD!
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Where are you first off as Melling's are in the States and seem to be great for typical V8 truck motors so you'll be paying bespoke fee's and freight and import duty! There are US bike performance shops who'll sell you ready finished sleeves off the shelf or of course if in the UK there are importers for the US bike parts or UK manufacturers of sleeves/liners.
But if its a shoestring build then just get another blandit barrel, get it bored to 81mm & rebuild - this is assuming you have 81mm pistons already. If you are spending £££ then I believe you can bore the cases out to take 90mm o/d liners and 86mm o/d pistons but going that big causes other issues that need to be addressed - like the blandit block will be daftly thin!
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2 hours ago, Jpich85 said:
What type of hose is best for the lines, is it the teflon one?
Teflon lined hoses for coolers is unwarranted - not enough pressure to worry them .......Rubber with braid cover is perfect and more flexible considering their size............................and cheaper!
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Agree - definitely two lines, each connected into the 'manifold' between the cams - disconnect the line from the cam cover otherwise the good pressurised oil will force itself into the cooling circuit due to the lower pressure. You need the two lines as there is no direct oil connection between the two sides of the head . Whilst restricted oil flow could be achieved with some jets - I personally wouldn't bother as the cam bearing clearances will restrict the flow and keep pressure high up to the point of use - the GSXR oil pump system produces some 50% more pressure / flow than it needs with excess bled off back to the sump, so even with excess oil going up to the head / cams via worn cam bearings the pump will make up the shortfall.
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But real question is, why no oil up barrels............or did you block off the gallery at the base of the barrels?
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Just your description is wrong! 'Dry blocking' has no oil flowing through the block AT ALL - the galleries at the bottom are blocked off and an external oil line is used from the main gallery to the cams directly. You have an 'auxillary' feed from the low pressure / high flow cooling gallery. Does beg the question why you had no oil from the cases though.........if you don't have an external feed! And that connection on its own won't provide the oil pressure required!
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When you say 'dry blocked' it - you mean no oil up the studs and so have a line or two from crankcase to head? Pictures would be useful. Hate to say it but if the cam is gone the head will be trolleyed as well - ali cam bearings always lose to steel!
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17 hours ago, Cheeky4648 said:
the 850 and gs1000 used the same basket ......... but the plates were bigger in diameter.
Eh ! ! ! - can't have it both ways - either the same OR bigger!
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Hasn't the Powerscreen got a Helical primary whereas the Blandit is straight cut?
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14 hours ago, pigford said:
All the Dynojet needles had a more aggressive taper to eliminate the midrange "lean spot" to meet emissions regs.... but they were better than standard needles....
Main problem is the CV carbs are shite for tuning!
Depends what you call 'tuning' ! My 36mm CV's gave plenty of power with a virtual straight line from idle to max - no holes! If you know what you are doing anything can be 'tuned'! BUT they are shite for racing as they only give what the engine wants not what you want to give it - subtle difference!
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I believe it's a lot to do with positioning of the hose end as the under tank area is generally a 'low pressure' zone but does vary so may be adjusted ad infinitum. My CV's used a double tee arrangement to pair them up and vent down by the cases - never any stumbles, just pulled from idle so there is something in it.
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Usually blowthro' carb installs have a Pitot tube in the charge pipe from the turbo (you make no mention of this?) - this supplies boost pressure air to float bowl vents and to FPR (can't see point of trying to reduce fuel pressure with vacuum - it's virtually flat lining now @ 0.5psi!) BOV gets signal from an inlet runner - IMO - ideally all 4 to minimise fluttering at idle due to single cylinder pulses. If the boost gauge is the multi coloured thing on the bars - throw it away and get a proper oil filled gauge - you don't need to know vacuum, take its signal from the plenum if possible. Around idle the mixtures should be just about as if it was NA ie. no different as the BOV will be fluttering supplying idle air........unless its got a stupidly strong spring in it.
But there again............... I know jack about carb'd blow throughs - I do know EFI blow through though LOL!
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2 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Well, that's a bit of good news then! Thought I was going to have a right ball ache with it. Thanks lads!
If its not you welding it - i'd leave it to the welder cos if you clean / grind it, by the time its got to the welder, the ground out areas will have oxidized so he'll have to clean it again. Just tell whoever its likely anodized and they'll clean it to suit - after all its their reputation on the line as regards finish!
4-2 zorst for b6 LOL
in Oil Cooled
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.................which will weigh more than the bike LOL!