Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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By my rough maths 155LpH equates to about 515hp and I doubt a 4mm pipe will allow that sort of flow!
Allowing some headroom over the std 160hp figure - say 250 - the line is maybe capable of flowing 75LpH. So you either change the fuel rail for a bigger one (as presently it may pose more of a restriction than the regulator!) or swop to a lesser capacity pump (subject to your power output expectations?)
If the fuel flow is severely restricted out of the pump it could overheat a) the pump or b) the fuel - or both!
I know on my bike a Teflon -6 pipe will flow sufficient fuel for 350 - 400hp, to go higher, safely, i'll need teflon -8
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Not preaching but please don't try 'reducing' fuel to unload the engine - cut it ALL or do it with retard. Boost + lean mixtures melt things...... no fuel = no power = no lean mixture. Personally I wouldn't ramp anything fuel or timing - cut it all and bring it all back instantly / at one time, as I can't see the point speeding up a gear change to then 'slowly' build power back with ramped timing? Its already at lower revs so needs the power to continue the drive.
In the 'old days' with uncontrolled ignition kills, we found that if you kill the ignition system as well as the coils you get the biggest bangs as the ignition when switched back-on, tended to fire any / all the plugs till correct timing was re-established - leaving the ignition live to keep the timing correct and trying to fire 'dead' coils worked well.
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3 hours ago, vizman said:
the final drive out of the gear box (output shaft) onto/into the propshaft would be 1:1,* then the gearing changed at the rear wheel, i've no idea what the gearbox ratios are in a 1100g.
if you stood at the rear of the bike the propshaft turns clockwise
engine dimentions are same as the other oilboilers
*i'm guessing at 1:1, as i can't imagine any different ratios fitting in that area or making any sense for it not to be 1:1.
1:1 makes sense but as you have a bevel drive change in direction, a gearing change is a possibility and so helping to avoiding tiny gears at the axle. Clockwise rotation is usual for a left handed driveshaft to turn wheel forward.
Anyone remember Sparkie's Nitrous Hippo from a while ago - monster powerful bike with clever touches.
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Are we taking air shifter or just a linkage triggered foot shift? If the former, the optimal time we measured was between 60 - 70ms total but the actual kill time is only a portion of that and its not at the start. You trigger the shift and solenoid released air takes two paths - one to the ram, the other to the kill switch which due to a longer air line has a delay built in as so the ram builds pressure on the lever, then the kill occurs, unloading the gears so ram can push through then 20 - 30Ms later the ignition is back on. If its foot shifting, you have to play around with the trigger point for the kill as its you preloading the lever not a ram. I believe either ign. or fuel cuts work equally well - its just timing that is the key - some sound like a autobox others bang and flame - guess which ones have their timing right!
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One of the big problems is getting a cylinder block to take the big liners - some have squeezed them into std GSX blocks but its a lot of metal to remove and the other option is aftermarket 'gorilla' blocks which have less fin area due to reduced numbers that are thicker than the originals ie. poor heat dissipation! Plus they tend to have little or no, through cylinder air paths - they are primarily designed for drag racing where rigidity / strength and short periods of use is primary function and cooling is secondary.
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23 minutes ago, boilerdude said:
http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/5511/busa-pistons-efe-block
post 4 hin this old thread has a nice tidy summary of what to do. But with regards to heat and compression and displacement.. I wonder is that setup capable of being reliable for the street?
Ask Duck and Dive - he's one of the few to try A/C big block on the street. My 1460 GSXR gets really hot even with extra finnage!
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The oiler engines are better bases for turbo abuse! A GSX will need a decent welded crank or it will twist with the high torque available at lower rpm's. Also the oil system - weak for NA is suspect for turbo use without work. Not many forged pistons as OEM fitment - Busa in a GSX will work and give a super torquey 1428 monster LOL! Deffo use forged pistons - cheaper in long run! Programmable ignition is a bonus as retard on boost stops things going bang or melting!
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If #1 was black - dry black or wet black or oily black? If dry - then potentially v. rich. If wet - then potentially leaky float valve / v. rich. If oily then could be leaky valve stem seals or rings. Poor electrics / bad sparks could also cause 1 and 2 as well due to poor combustion. Dirty plugs - particularly NGK's - don't successfully clean up...... so best replace to eliminate that as a symptom!
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2 hours ago, Blue said:
Can I rule out electrical even though I've just rewired the bike ?
If 1 and 2 are running then both coils are working and so 3 and 4 will be getting sparks (or see my post above). If you have sparks and you have air and it still ain't running then it ain't getting the last bit - fuel !
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If its a pair of un-matched cylinders, its unlikely to be electrical - unless both coils, plug leads, plug caps or spark plugs are duff at same time! Which leaves carbs - everybody's favorite subject - i'd start with a strip and see whats blocked - pilots. idle air, float valve would be candidates!
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Valve springs are ground top and bottom so can be fitted any way up. If you have the Duplex header fitted it could be a small leak past the gasket - they can sound ticky and would also allow a lean run on that particular cylinder. Worth a look or swop to another header for elimination purposes?
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Orient Express - always served me well and well knowledgeable on old Suzuki's
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On 9/2/2017 at 8:41 AM, CossiEst said:
Pisses me off when sellers can't be arsed to show a correct product picture - those are clearly NOT turbo pistons! And this may have changed but MTC's used to be only available @ 80mm, as this was the entry level 1327cc kit piston and 10:1 CR is a bit tall IMO if you want to run decent boost - and who doesn't!
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I'm guessing the headlamp load reduces the current having to be dissipated by the piss poor RR - so not having lights on ALL the time, is bad for your 'lectrics!
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Don't knock Fram or HiFlow - both good filters and both available in the US for about 9 bucks delivered to your door via the internet! I've used both together with OEM over the years and the engine can't tell the difference - oil does 6k miles, filter and oil get changed.............................and regular size filter comes off without faffing with exhaust headers!
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Why fix what ain't broken!
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2 hours ago, nlovien said:
the venturi helps to speed up and smooth out the airflow - less turbulance = less back pressure (choke) = more potential flow
Probably...............but totally unconnected with the quoted item, namely ram pipes / stacks, It is what it is generally and is fixed for all tuning scenario's.
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2 hours ago, Dezza said:
The devil is always in the detail and for example on an alloy framed bike, ancillaries mounted on welded-on lugs trump those bolted to frame spars when someone has obviously drilled a hole into the spar and then tapped a thread in the (relatively) thin alloy.
Don't see why - there are plenty of Suzuki fitted RivNuts applied to GSXR frames so would be an alternative method !
Any method - brazing, welding with TIG / MIG / Stick, bolting or gluing (yes its possible) is only as good as the muppet doing the work!
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Steel or aluminium - either is suitable. Steel is probably easiest for welding, ali is maybe best to use bolts. After all, the manufacturers didn't / don't heat treat their frames after welding!
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Return position won't help as you surmise - if you can extend the pipe towards the top of the tank - de-aerates it better.
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Velo stacks - two theories - None and then added will potentially lean a mixture as the improved linear airflow will allow more inflow so leaning the mixture BUT conversely the improved airflow will allow better draw from the jet, so mixture should stay pretty much the same. Other feature is 'reversion air flow' due to opening / closing of valves - air has velocity and when stopped in the inlet, a pressure wave reverses pushing mixture backwards usually visualised as 'stand-off'. This can be contained by the ram pipes giving richer mixtures (sometimes) All varies with rpm as it moves torque peak around - short = best at high rpm, long for better low end power.
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What pistons? If OEM, the rings aren't best placed for a turbo so a new set of rings would likely go the same way.
For aftermarket - i'd slump for MTC in a turbo all day long. Mild grind and smooth to inlet won't harm whilst a good polish in the exhaust sometimes pays dividends.
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46 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
No. Because both supply routes eventually meet up and have to go through the same small hole at the cam journals. The smallest hole decides the pressure.
Well something is causing the lite to come on - the switch is pretty unsophisticated and responds to flow rather than pressure.
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Did you plug the oil transfer holes between cases and barrels when you added the external lines? If not you've doubled the potential oil flow routes to the head and likely halved the pressure - which for the plain bearing cams is NOT a good thing!
Turbo plumbing for a simpleton
in Forced Induction
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Someone's a happy bunny!