Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
I thought it was to reduce noise from the chain/sprocket
Winner Winner - Chicken Dinner ! ! !
I did like the case protection one - very inventive!
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You could sub in another set but it is a REAL big risk to take IMO. If you do, then use 'plastigauge' on each journal in 2 or 3 positions to check clearances.
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Clutch switch...... if it has one? Usually tied into the start circuit somewhere. Basics - power up to start / ign bar switch, follow those wired to next junction / object and check still powered, next and so on till the last bit. If that all checks out then check earths.
Assuming the starter is actually connected via soli to battery? A spanner across the soli terminals will prove starter operation.
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If its got double fresh oil and is showing loss of compression then it probably HAS lost compression - check it with a gauge. Depending on how much fuel was in the oil will determine how much it was diluted and therefore how reduced its lubrication was? Running the engine certainly didn't help as petrol lubricates jack! If the rings are toast they are toast and oil from above won't help. And if the rings are done for that same oil will have gone through main bearings, rod bearings and cam bearings so draw your own conclusions from that!
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5 hours ago, clivegto said:
155 b12 carbs stage 3 dyno jet might even have 160s in at the moment.
Close Clive but they ain't RS's!
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4 hours ago, Madb said:
So is there not enough vacuum above the diaphragm to lift the slides? Is this the cause of the Rev ceiling 6.5k.
Air leak on that side maybe or am I well off the mark.
Me just learning about forced induction but sounds like not enough vacuum above diapham.
Carbs don't essentially work with vacuum - they function via airflow.............else how would all those turbo blow through carb set ups work - no vac when on boost!
High pressure is created / generated through the venturi - a CV carb tries to keep this constant by lifting / lowering the slide.
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33 minutes ago, El Gringo said:
I think that's the critical thing, on these there isn't a bleed to the underside of the diaphragms from a boosted or non boosted air point of view.
Don't know the carbs but if the above is true - as stock - I can't see how they work? Normally the slide holes adjust lift speed - and no I don't know how that works LOL!
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I don't know what the problem is but I always thought that the carbs should stay pretty much bone stock with a minor MJ increase to start with. The Dynamic boost over the fuel is to keep fuel delivery constant - the std. bleeds and air vents to the diaphragm work via air flow so either NA or turbo it's self compensating or use a heavier spring to slow the lift providing the needle can cope.
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2 hours ago, dupersunc said:
You need to check your zues book. ;D
1mm = 0.040"
I fackin' hate inch conversions ! ! ! Wood comes in both 2.4m of 4x2" and we build houses with mm!
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15 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
May have had a die run down to go to 6mm after stripping 8mm ones
All to save the cost of a Helicoil.................tight bastards! LOL!
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I've always tried to maintain minimum 1mm piston to head squish clearance ie. 0.040". If you are chasing max power you could squeeze that to 0.8mm / 0.065".
For valves, due to the chance of valve float, I try to keep 2mm or 0.080" and change.
Anyone quoting 80 - 100 thou. squish is losing power but very safe...............racing isn't about safe LOL!
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Deffo M8 x 1.25. I like using stainless steel studs with brass nuts - damn sight easier fitting manifold single handed using studs!
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2 hours ago, dupersunc said:
I'd definitely duct some cool air to the cooler.
Wouldn't be my choice of position personally.
Sort of agree with that - its a low pressure area and airflow is a bit strange hence why open carbs work peculiar. Personally I'd up the main cooler size and maybe change the oil more frequently?
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I'll offer some balance LOL!.........I've had 3 Dyna 2000's now and never a problem, always used with green dynacoils. I had one of the first ones when they were released maybe 20 years ago, fitted to my Kawazuki - ran it NA and turbo. Now got one on my 1460 and one on SWMO's kawa trike - got that one on hols @ Gainsville via MRE - Jay got it special order overnite from Dyna, fitted like all the others and both work as they are supposed to. Fitted more than a few in various bike shops - they did go through a reliability duff patch but now ( I understand) they're built back in the USA and are better.........hopefully! Never seen or used a Ignitech so can't speculate on them.
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If it ain't running right even without boost and with the sharp stop, i'd guess it's more electronic rev limiter'esc - the rich AFR is likely uncombusted mixture?
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What power are you shooting for? For info 800cc is good for around 500hp. I don't think Suzuki will have fitted a pump capable of supporting much more than 200hp - if they want just one pump across their product range, maybe far lower, as bigger is extra elec. power drain! For info, pressure is easier to produce / increase - flow isn't. Flow increase requires bigger holes, pressure just needs restriction! Increasing the pressure sometimes works against OEM injectors - they suffer with opening against the pressure.
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Or liquid PTFE sealant works well.
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Don't try and convince 'de management' what is and what isn't Old skool - they don't like it LOL!
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1 minute ago, Duckndive said:
Trev's Solenoids are the dogs......and I like jetting at the solenoid its so much easier for quick changes ...
Ha Ha Ha - I figured you'd pop up Clive to champion Trev's stuff - I hate recommending them ........ but they are the best IMO!
Kev's winning bikes used NX Pro big soli's and Schnitz Prostreet 2 controller without problems but he was OCD with their maintenance (cleaning and servicing) and had spares at the track just in case LOL!
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Not sure a 600 head will transfer to a 750 block - best check first?
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Word of caution NOS soli's don't like pulsing and you just know that they'll stick open - never closed! The WON soli's are the best when pulsed.
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Agreed on the pumper - doesn't the manual say something about disconnection whilst base tuning? Just off idle is too early anyway.
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A 14 tooth is a bit harsh on chain so 15 / 45 will give same ratio as 14 / 42 and what I used on my 1100 so could be a bit tall for acceleration on a 750? Maybe 15 / 48 might be better?
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The point I was making is a std GSXR puts out more pressure / flow than it can deal with so providing more is counterproductive. Pressure is developed once all the galleries are full and if the bearing clearances / oil jets / oil bleeds are the same orifice size then delivered oil pressure will be exactly the same. Compressing oil, just like any fluid, increases its temp so if you had cooling problems - additional heating of the oil ain't gonna help. Oil isn't the best for picking up and releasing heat - engine cooling problems = you want more oil capacity and better oil cooling which is opposite to most drag racers requirements! If you are losing pressure at the strip on shut off, you likely have a minimal oil capacity surge problem, this is why busa's were doing bearings when using flat shallow sumps - the swinging pick-ups helped until everyone discovered dry sumps! These points aren't a dig - just observations - take them or leave them but i've never run a bearing - ever.......................except when the pump tried to pump an M6 nut, did a bit more damage than a few bearings!
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ES Electrical probs
in Air Cooled
Posted
Remember its a US bike ....... the land of the Lawsuit! If they didn't make it ridiculously difficult to start a bike with the possibility of you not being at least hands on somewhere, in case of in gear etc etc etc, then the legal eagles would have a field day!