Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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It can be done but its not totally straight forward. The potential issue is the cam chain tunnel overlaps with the gasket - without some reworking its fairly minimal. Heres one I did a while ago - Gorilla block, 80.5mm GSXR pistons, Katana rods, stripped out GSXR1100K head, flowed and ported with 30/26mm SS valves, G28/G21 cams and about 14:1 CR! Using Race gas was pushing 175-180hp but never got to add the NOS! Pics are when I was thinking of turbo and methanol........
Oil flow / pressure was uprated with 750 gears but because the oily head cooling is piss poor - needs a reasonable oil cooler ( I used a 9 row on a drag bike) It would need more on a road bike.
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With the style of the installation there's not much you can do about IAT's as its a shed load of piping to get an intercooler in there somewhere! A bit of water mist injection could help at the hottest end but its a bit of a BandAid.
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46 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
why whats wrong with the pictures, they look ok here??????
I'll give you a clue........
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Ha Ha Ha - looks as if IMGUR.com can't handle the photfit traffic anymore!
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Interesting placement for the 'Pro 2' ! ! !
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12 hours ago, luke2152 said:
I didn't realise the wastegate has ports for hoses on both sides of the diaphragm (I still have no idea why!) but I had my boost signal plumbed into the wrong side such that boost would hold it closed instead of push it open. That explains the big map reading.
The dual ports are for use with a decent boost controller that can add or subtract boost at any point that it is programmed to do so - like if using boost against gears it can add more boost depending on gear and reduce it if a particular gear / rpm is wheelie prone - all clever stuff!
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What state is the basket and hub in? Excessive ridges / grooving won't help everything trying to slide smoothly - not saying its a fix because even when brand spankers the GSX clutch was a heavy bastard! An adjusted pivot point / lever length will make a difference but has to be balanced with lower lift of the plates / potential clutch drag!
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5 hours ago, Dazzler said:
Anyway, bike starts now with throttle cable in but revs real high. I loosened cable a bit and the idle adjuster, revs lowered a bit but still revving pretty high.
Happy to at least get it running and will look into it more another time.
Suck eggs time - back out idle adjustment screw completely so not touching the throttle arm, then loosen / tighten throttle cable at twist grip until you get about 2mm of freeplay in the cable, then adjust the idle adjustment screw till the throttle blade is just cracked open. Start and if it idles low then screw the idle screw in a bit till correct ...... usually 800 - 1100 rpm depending on the bike.
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Note to Self - If you have to stop something half way through or end of day / weekend / whatever, stick a strip of masking tape over the ign switch / clocks with 'NO OIL' or NO CLUTCH' or 'NO START'.written on it. It does help - unbelievably I know someone who rolled a bike off the centre stand with no back wheel in it ! ! ! Oh how we laughed cos stupidity knows no boundaries!
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If it was me...........and it isn't ........ I wouldn't use dash 6 hose! Fairly sure the std hose ID is bigger than -6 equivalent!
As these are the only things keeping the head cool, I wouldn't want to restrict oil - if anything flood it with more!
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5 minutes ago, vizman said:
i bet the panther owners club are pissing themselves at this.....
They only need one gear so clutch isn't an issue LOL!
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3 hours ago, boilerdude said:
Pods are individuals. He's tongue tied. He means duals...
those.. cs 901
You may call individuals filters 'pods' but in 'Gods Own Country', and the home of streetfightered modified bikes but Duals are called Pods!
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Don't use individual filters with CV carbs - they just don't work well! Pods better and you'll need to play with jets and needles / positions - more air = more fuel!
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13 hours ago, luke2152 said:
Fortunately turned out it had just popped the injector o-ring out. Not quite sure how to deal with that - injector is from subaru wrx and throttle bodies from gsxr 600 - guess I'll have to make a washer that fits over the nozzle of the injector but holds the o-ring down.
I assume its #2? Its an odd fault as scoobies use as much boost as you likely used so far.
I'd suggest replacing the O rings firstly as I can't see trying to fit washer retainers being a solution.
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147.5 on the mains sound humongous - not right at all. Std Bindit is something around 105 from memory - I only needed 136's in a fairly full on 1186 GSXR with 36mm CV's and pods. I know a lot of peeps don't like DJ kits ...... but all the ones i've used have been pretty well right out of the box with only a little dyno work to refine!
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21 minutes ago, coombehouse said:
If you are going to the trouble of replacing the bolts before welding, don't use stainless bolts. They are as soft as shit. Shouldn't be used for anything really highly stressed. Use unplated HT bolts or de-embrittled plated HT bolts.
If you are welding the clutch to the rotor though it is pointless replacing the bolts as they won't be doing anything.
They maybe 'soft as shit' but they don't tend to shear off like HT and most peeps will have 3 new M8 SS lying around and not 3 HT screws! Rotor has to be located for welding so SS is as good as anything!
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Its easy if your a good welder - if more like pigeon shit.....get someone else to do it!
Take the rotor and starter clutch off and clean / degrease it, likewise the rotor. Renew the 3No cap head screws - HT or stainless - either is ok, thread lock them and torque tight. MIG or TIG 3No 1/2" - 3/4" beads between the starter clutch case and the rotor adjacent to the new screws, then refit the rotor.
I've no pics of mine when it was done but it happily withstood plenty of 24v starts before I went to offboard starting!
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As said you will use loads, you can up the compression up AND boost the tits off it and it won't detonate. Cooling can be restricted but you'll be changing oil very frequently. Only use fresh meth - don't store it as it goes off real quick. Don't leave any in the tank or fuel system - it hates aluminium unless anodised and goes white and furry - try and run gasoline through the engine before storage or yank the plugs and spin the engine whilst squirting WD40 through the induction system - that's about all you need to know! Oh and don't wash yer hands in it or try drinking it - you'll go blind , go mental then die!
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9 minutes ago, no class said:
You will need to vent the lower case also..... valve cover vent alone is not enough for a boosted motor .You could mount a catch tank somewhere and all your vent hoses go there ..... that bottle should have a filter on top and a drain plug on the bottom ...... drain the soup every once in a while .
Indeed good advice - I had std cam cover vent + 1No additional -10 hose from the cam cover with a -10 from centre of clutch cover and -8 from the oil filler, all on a ickle T2 1186 - can't have too many breathers as blow by and case compression blows out gaskets / seals.
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Found this ....... http://www.rlrmotorsports.com/suzuki-slipper-clutches-872-p.asp - not cheap but it is a slipper.
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37 minutes ago, Blue said:
I can't seem to bend the tab enough to get a lower float height
Float assembly / cage doesn't appear fully seated - that would affect the height relationship!
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Who says its possible? I've seen 1000 baskets grafted onto 1100 gear for fitting convertable / slider clutches but those ain't slipper clutches and never really heard of anyone saying 'that 1100 clutch is pants - I really need a slipper'!
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These casing marks aren't specific to models - usually only accurate measurement will reveal which is which.
Looks like some bad wear on those journals so they could be scrap?
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Certainly not a common conversion given availability of Busa arms so obviously there is a reason - too wide, too big a spindle, too much faffing about!
Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot
in Forced Induction
Posted
Thought you said HOT! Its only 70 odd degrees over ambient - try over 160 over ambient with 2 bar boost and an intercooler - thats HOT!