Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Yes!
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IMO - minimum 19 row and std. Mocal Width (235mm) and Dash 10 hoses. Will deal with mod'd engine, used on my turbo but had to keep moving or it got bloody hot. Better would be 19 row and wide (340mm) width for a bit of insurance, I think EARLS do them - but you can run into fork - cooler interference ........... pays yer money and takes yer choice!
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Don't forget the little jack plug that terminates one of the leads - something about 'daisy chaining' other devices - the plug tells them its the end of the line......apparently!
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2 hours ago, philwright said:
Thanks for that, i will get a spare set of coils off the bay, the tank vent looks clear is there a foolproof way of checking that it is venting properly?..i noticed there isnt a vent pipe leading from the vent stub at the base of the tank ,but AFAIK there never has been one.
That's not the tank vent - its the filler cap / well overflow drain! Tank is vented via the filler cap - easy enough to dis-assemble and check...........or just ride around with the cap open for 5 - 10 miles if problem reoccurs then it ain't the tank venting - more likely coils breaking down!
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9 hours ago, Nelson said:
You can fix them with Arildite (?) or that Gorrilla flue, same thing.
Hold the pipe down in its original position with a zip tie & pour it over.
Make sure it’s in its original position & let the stuff go off.
This ^^^ occured to me, although i'd set it in place with some Gel Superglue then hit it with epoxy or chemical metal - Devcon or similar.
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Or even this one ...... https://innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf
It's the same one I have for my car but without the gauge - got a whole kit but the switch / LED bit is daftly easy to do.
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Well i've blown the manifold off a few engines whilst using dodgy ignition kill with an air shifter on turbo motors, and seeing as a lot of people bolt the manifold to the head, you lose that potential pressure release. Nitrous assist is always good for a spectacular backfire. Anyway it's all info for the masses.
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Thanks for the circuit diagram which I sort of followed, although some of the component symbols are beyond me and none of the components were listed in my freebie PCB designer software so got a bit stuck ! You may have another sale here - even a kit of parts would be good - metal gluing is easy, and satisfying!
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That's an interesting comment re: backfires. If anyone has had a mooch around a Top Fuel bike or car they tend to have sacrificial burst panels built into the manifold to protect the blower essentially. The one on Ian King's bike was a 2" / 50mm dia disc of what looked like tin foil that held 40 - 50psi boost but a backfire would rip it to shreds and release boost pressure safely.
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54 minutes ago, nitro said:
"a bit of play" is normal to a turbo charger
True - but when does it become out of tolerance ?
If you are anywhere in the south / south coast - I'd recommend Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch - always done good work and come up with solutions to my requests - I used to spend between £200 - 250 each time including full strip, rebuild and balance, labour and parts. Even when swapping parts, the old bits had value so it's not like having to buy a whole new compressor say.
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35 minutes ago, nitro said:
But look at the quality of the weld. The weld was not gone through the material. It was only on the edge.
No arguments please but he does have a point - look at the tacked joints inside - there is no penetration from the outside finish welds, likewise the top closing weld on the far edge - maybe 0.5mm deep (visual guess) - I'd say not if, but when, for weld fracture.
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I believe there is possibly a mix up between centre to centre measurements and edge to edge measurements?
All air and oil cooled suzukis have had 77 - 93 - 77 ctr. to ctr. carb. bores forever. Dunno what the water boilers ended up as?
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20 minutes ago, wsn03 said:
I presume you have a vac system on your carbs. Mine is gravity fed. Would filter under the carbs work with gravity fed?
If the fuel supply is higher than the carbs then the float bowls will always fill by gravity!
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3 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Must be my eyes, inlet side looks like 34mm to me?
I hate vernier calipers - I was using the end of the slide - not where the '0' was ! DOH! Long live Digital Calipers for Idiots - like me LOL!
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29 minutes ago, Arttu said:
Nope. The fuel pressure regulator still keeps the fuel pressure constant. So as long as switching to full power happens before demand exceeds supply on half power there is no change in fuel pressure and no need to compensate anything.
Hmmmm! I understand the PWM principle and can glue wires together well enough but creating circuits is beyond my understanding - do you have a sketch or circuit diagram to give it a go....... no point having a 400hp pump when bike only needs a 200hp one!
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On 12/11/2018 at 9:01 PM, clivegto said:
Had a look at you tube out of curiosity to see a busa engine been stripped down & indeed the dots go at the front. Just reassuring myself really lol.
No harm in checking - build it right - build it once!
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Sorry can't help on this one as a) my GSXR has better alt. output and b) I added a bigger AH battery to give a better buffer.
Was going to suggest dropping FP and increase opening times - but Arttu's PWM solution sound the better option? @Arttu- on 1/2 power do you still need to adjust inj. times to compensate - or run an alternate map?
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12 hours ago, skelly said:
Righty...
Coil on time, I have a choice of 1000 to 4000 micro seconds, I'm using a pair of dyna grey 2.2 ohm coils, would also like an idea of coil on time vs batt voltage.
Throttle transients ? nothing I do seems to work.
Injector dead time (open & close time) I'm using nikki 771 injectors from a gsx 1400.
That's about it at the mo. Cheers. Skel.
Just checked my mapping - bearing in mind its a 2.0L Zetec engine !
Coilpack with 3000us setting (I used 3500us with dyna greens and Motec ECU on my bike), Throttle transients - dunno! Using the settings from base map, std. Mondeo injectors (200cc I think) 0.7 dead time.
Regarding the Throt. Transients - DTA has 3 bikes mapped - all suzuki! - and their TT's do vary slightly but not massively to each other or to my zetec tune so would safely say the settings have 'minimal effect' - just smooth the rough edges on accell and decell?
Hope that helps.
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
They don't look like oil boiler carbs?
Could be right! - have semi downdraft float bowls?
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I have one on my Mk2 Escort - what problems?
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The ID bore would tend to suggest 36mm OD so not 1100M carbs which would be 40mm OD - but they could have been swapped as 40mm's are a PITA to tune easily. Looks like a DJ needle but its a while since I've seen one! DJ main jets are sized in steps of two - 132, 134, 136 etc and only fit DJ emulsion tubes - threads are different as I remember
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The DOT head will only fit one model year of the 750's - sorry I can't recall which - DOH. Between the 90 and the 92, I'd pick the 90 - it may have a slightly inferior inlet port compared to the 92 but came with screw and locknut tappets and so a wider range of aftermarket cams. Unless the class or race series requires the use of 'stock' CV carbs - buy the RS38's or (my prefered carb) the Keihin FCR39's............unless you can afford TMR's. Knowing 'what' cams you 'have' is of interest only if selling them - knowing what you want aftermarket is more crucially important IMO.
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1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:
Not convinced at all. I use two sintered filters in past ended up binning them and throughly washing tank instead.
What ? Like one of these things?
Prefer the second type - plenty of gravity flow to supply an S&S draw thro turbo install for me.
Just don't fancy that small area in the sintered type!
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I don't remember! I got an 1100 alloy arm and put it in my 750 frame - don't remember changing anything! Certainly didn't drill the frame - biggest I have is 13mm
But a file could have seen some action......... but don't think so!
Clutch Brake Chinese hidraulic opinion
in Oil Cooled
Posted
And when it comes to brakes...........can you afford for them to fail - EVER ?