Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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'kin hell - compared to your hand, that outlet flange is 'kin enormous! Sorry no idea on brand or model but looks like it'll need a fair bit of adaptation for bike use?
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Try this ....... https://shopbhp.com/products/denso-pencil-stick-coil-on-plug-cop-connectors-cbr-gsxr-hayabusa-motorcycle?variant=25483609793 This where I was planning to get some from but not urgent for me.
If you can't find actual plugs then possibly fit mini blade connectors to fly leads, fit on terminals and silicon into place and weatherproof - bit ghetto but would work, make up a whole sub loom for the COP's with one single plug 5 or 6 pin?
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Can get them on the Bay of EEEEEE's - £10 - 12.00 for a set?
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Old style Mini Exhaust Bobbins work for me - stud at each end and rubber joining them.
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3 hours ago, HUM said:
exact thats the question , but there is an other indicator relay existing with 3 cable joints ......
Could be Hazards then? Unlikely but possible?
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Anti wheelie device LOL!
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Re : Earlier question about the turbo - it could be a T2 or a T25, they also had 5 / 6 bolt outlet flanges - well my T2 did. Do you know the power output as my T2 had everything max'd out for flow and made 210rwhp max @ 10psi - wouldn't make any more but it was still internally gated so it probably didn't help.
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Yeah - good call, or shite in the switch?
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4 hours ago, Gammaboy said:
Are the circuit breakers themselves unreliable?
Put anything in the firing line of road shite and water and it'll fail - electrics moreso! It's an unnecessary complication that can be simplified with a fuse instead and easier to protect. They maybe not very expensive but when failed beside the road - that doesn't help!
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Oil boilers do not have a reputation for low oil pressure and as most switches trigger at stupidly low pressure it is a sign of a problem ....... they usually have an excess of pressure and flow so have to bleed excess off. No oil changes and bodgy meckniks don't bode well i'm afraid! The best place to test is main galley plug on the RH side of the crankcase where a gauge could be fitted and get an accurate reading.
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Anyone know what happened to Ian King's bike - I did ask him years ago but he said it went to fund racing and not sure of its whereabouts at that time? There are so many great specials that seem to have faded from existence - where are they all?
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10 hours ago, wraith said:
Got a bag full of new inline fuses holders i got some years ago
Make sure to use a fully weather protected one or at least get it out of the shite firing line - that's what does the 'clicky breakers' in
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Had a look and it's no 'Box' - just a plain endurance special and a Yam at that! And feckin' expensive! I think my m8 picked his 'box up for 2 or 3 grand about 10 odd years ago.............oh the times are a changin!
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Eggzackery!
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15 minutes ago, wraith said:
Can you just cut it out and join the two red wires?
That's what most of us have done or replace it with a 30A fuse and a spare!
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Got a link? Wouldn't mind a gander! PM me if the nazis get shirty!
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On 1/30/2019 at 8:20 PM, skylinespeedster said:
harris Harribox . harris only made 50 frames . for Yamaha and suzuki engines . .ian king had one which housed a gsxr 1100 back in the day . was featured in the "crossbow calender if your old enough to remember .
Ian's one was a work of art - so many bits that were just plain desirable!
Re : HarriBox engines - I know of one built for water filled Kwak motors - a ZZR1100 currently is in residence........ it's a great fat porker of a bike though!
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Can someone explain the last 5 or 6 posts to me cos it doesn't make any sense whatsoever!
Unless you have a Hemi, pretty much every engine combustion chamber will extend to near the bore diameter in some direction whilst being inset in others - this is usually matched by the piston crown. Where the inset is placed, is where the most 'squish' effect occurs and is designed to induce a turbulent mixture and squeeze it toward the plug to be ignited. A 750 matches an 1100 chamber shape but shallower which increases the CR. Throwing an 1216 kit at an 1100 increases squish (as the head chamber profile hasn't changed so the piston has more 'real estate' to work against) Adding a DOT head may increase that effect a bit more.
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Query - are you bracket racing ie. 10.5 break out or ET dial in racing - different animals and different approaches? I actually believe that ET Dial In, Heads up racing is the hardest class to do well in - good luck!
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Actually 29.5 degrees - see attached map.
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21 minutes ago, Goo'Roo said:
No, it's an Ignitech that controls only the ignition, the bike Is carbed.
What kind of values would you suggest?
Difficult to suggest figures but yours are about where mine ended up - but mine runs to 2 bar boost, is injected and has compensations so not a direct comparison - you could add 1 deg to whole map from 3000 / 150kpa up if you know fuelling is good.
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Very safe i'd say! Does the ecu that you use have additional compensation maps for IAT and CT - these can be of more assistance by allowing a more 'generous' main map and then trimming the extremes at elevated temps.
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1 hour ago, Duckndive said:
Many Many Moons ago when I did my GS7/10 I bought a H/D cam chain amongst other bits from NCK .."some will remember"
Grandad Nash counted the links of a roll of chain and riveted it together on the vice that was on the end of the counter and said there ya go lad .....
'Spose no chain is endless until it's joined LOL!
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You guys aren't looking at the application! It seems to me an ET bike needs to leave reliably and quick enough to get sufficient lead advantage to be able to back off to not break out and still finish first? A turbo is all back half rush so playing catch up - may cross the line first but lose on a break-out!
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Ape head nuts
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I'd say yes - use them. With GSXR's there are copper washers fitted (obviously for some peculiar reason!) which the APE nuts can't substitute! + it stops the nuts galling on the seating within the head.