NorthernBloke

Evening gents, I'm re-building my forks with new seals and bushes which has been a right B*****d and I'm finally ready to put the oil in and I'm informed it should be 5w, is this right as after all the trouble I've been to I want them to work properly. BTW I weigh 15 stone and only use it for Sunday blasts and never carry a passenger. Also I've not ridden the bike yet so have no reference as I bought it as a project so if someone can advise what fork oil to use I can get some tomorrow at the Stafford show all being well.

Will do many thanks

I’ll take it if it’s still available?

Thanks for the advice Guys will do it as you suggested.

I have assumed that with the swinging arm centred in the frame and the rear wheel aligned with the centre of the swinging arm pivot it would be in line with the front wheel, is that not correct? I'm not centering the wheel in the swinging arm at the wheel end but at the pivot end. I wanted to get it central and then at the end sort out the chain run.

Huge747 - Can you confirm the exact items you have fitted please so I can compare. I've not gotten around to doing the conversion yet I'm waiting for the winter to take it off the road. I decided to stick with the B12 wheel and had some top hat spacers from 28mm to 20 mm made for the spindle and have had one brake side spacer made but I need the caliper carrier skimming down by about 5mm overall as the wheel is 5mm too near to the chain side to be central, thats as far as I've got.

Thanks, do you know what years early and later models refer to? The bike arrived today so will take a look when I get chance.

Hello peeps, I've been hanging out in the air-cooled section for a while now but will be spending some time over here as from the weekend when I pick up my new 1100WP to sit along side my aircooled GSX. However I'm advised it has a noisy alternator and after much research I can't seem to find a definitive proper fix, there was mention on another forum of making a new aluminium bush but I 'm not sure how well that would work with a steel shaft running directly in it. Since I don't have the bike yet I can't investigate further I wondered if anyone here has dealt with this already and if so how? Cheers in advance,

Let us know what works it’s good to know

Its usually stamped on the end of the jet, it is on my 1100. there are lots of different physically sized jets so you need to ensure you order the right shape and sized ones, Allen's performance stock them all and should also be able to advise what's stock for the UK model, also worth checking that all 4 are the same as sometimes the centre two can be different than the outer's. Also when you say you need to replace the jets why is that, does it run okay is it showing any signs of being rich or lean, they might just need a good clean?

Thanks for the info guys, I've taken the plunge and bought a 1250 arm for a very reasonable price (£1) so since I have a B12 wheel with a 20 mm spindle I need a different wheel with a 28mm spindle so have been looking at a few and I've found one I like from a GSXR 600 K6. But was wondering how strong it is as it has 3 quite thin spokes, will it take the weight of me and a GSX1100? Has anyone used a newish ( thin spoked) wheel on an old bruiser or am I worrying over nothing? I think a wheel swap is easier and cheaper than trying custom bearings and spacers for my current wheel , not to mention having to reduce the size of the slots in the swinger for the smaller spindle what do you think. Cheers again.

What wheel are you using it looks a tad wider?

Thanks pal just what I needed will need to look into the axle / wheel options.

I've just finished fitting mine tonight and the only thing to be aware of is that they are much bigger then standard ones so stuff needs moving about. From my research they became popular from 2011 on wards lots of Yams use them mine's of an MT07. Think kwak used them on ZX10R's as well. They seem to go cheap because they don't seem to break on newish bikes so not much call for used ones.

Just wondering how different these are from a bandit 1200? Thinking of one for my Gsx1100 as I like the back brake arrangement. Has anyone managed to use one or compare one? The important bit would be the width for the top hat spacers.

Also if you want an inexpensive MOSFET RR some modern jap bikes have them as standard now so no need to pay £100 plus for a new one or risk a dodgy Chinese copy you can get a used one from a less popular bike for £20 to £30 quid on the bay of E

Hi not sure on the exact model you should use but would expect a stage 3 kit for the Bandit to be the right one as long as the carbs are from a bandit bandit. Also I believe the stage 3 kits were for bikes with "free flowing" exhausts and pod filters. So if that's what you have you should be in the right ball park, obviously some adjustments are likely to be required.

Thanks FJBJ40 really appreciate all the pictures, I'll start taking my standard bits off soon and do some proper measuring, it really helps to have your pictures to compare to.

Sounds great, Makes sense ref the carbs / injectors and that way you can keep the standard air-box as long as the fuel rail is out of sight your sorted. Also ref the forks your right sounds like similar money to the usual front end swaps. Good luck and keep us all posted I'm watching this one with interest.

Are new units easily available ? just wondering because as you say you could replace all the visible components yourself for about a tenner if you were really desperate, assuming you can get at the solder side of the pcb ( circuit board ) also assuming you can find out whats behind the metal plate. All the visible components have the type / value or rating on them and someone familiar with electronics could spec them for you.

Hi as you say all bikes are different and it depends on how free flowing your slip ons are, do you have the make or a picture as someone else may already have them? I went to just a V&H pipe on my 1100 and kept the standard airbox and filter and I ended up going up 4 sizes on main jets and 2 on the pilots, if you're going for pods as well you might be better off getting a stage 3 dynojet kit? Anyway I'm sure someone who has done this will be along soon. It would be interesting for you to upate us once you have it finished tomorrow.

I like this idea as well but I bet its not that easy to keep some of these things hidden. How far are you going to take it i.e. how "standard " does it need to look to the average peron or to an enthusiast? Depending on how far you want to take it you could go to newer RWU forks with cartridges in them and the average Joe wouldn't notice. Good Luck with it.

Thanks for the advice, are you refering to the type of 530 chain i.e. X ring, O ring and none O ring or variation by different brands? But as you say I need to find a chain specialists where I can measure different ones if possible.

Thanks guys but I’m still confused as all the gs500 ones I can see seem to be 5 sections and my RF wheel is 6, I also looked at SV ones and they seem to be 5 as well?

Hello Peeps, I normally hang out in the aircooled section as I run a GSX1100 but I'm looking to fit a 5.5 inch rear wheel to it and have one from an RF900. Ive been advised to run my GSX sprocket carrier which may need some machining for chain clearence however before I do I did wonder if a RF900 carrier would make things easier so wondered if anyone has one to hand and could tell me how deep it is from the sprocket mounting flange to the opposite side that seats against the wheel hub? Also are there other sprocket carriers the same fitting as the RF900 one e.g Blandit etc? Cheers in advance.