NorthernBloke

Somethings not quite right here, with that spec I would expect it to need more fuel and would need a bigger main jets, Suggest that you strip and re-check the carbs. Also you say running rich, is that at tick over, part throttle or full throttle and does it pull cleanly at higher revs?

If you get it running on 3, does it run on all 4 once its warmed up and off choke, or at higher revs? also if you put your hand over the carb inlet that's not running does it kick in?

Does the plug sparks outside the engine, rested against the cylinder head? I would swap plugs and try it or fit new ones just in case. If you've swapped carbs and coils and leads then it something related to that cylinder that hasn't been moved. Valve clearances, compression on that pot?

Do you have standard exhaust and air-box or are they none stock? Also going to 1230 I would expect it to need to be richened up so wouldn't expect it to be over rich? not sure if you can access your mixture screws as on my 1100ES I had to drill out the anti tamper caps to get at them, if you can access them try screwing them in assuming its running rich at the lower end of the rev range. Between 0 - 3 turns out is the normal range assuming you have the right size pilot jets.

Was it previously running on all 4, and when you say swapped carbs, you've used a completely different set? Is the plug wet on the none running pot & have you swapped the plugs over as well.

Ignore the " say what now " the computer did that itself!

Thanks say what now!?

Quick question guys, I've just rebuilt the top end on my 1100 WP and all is well so before I put all the bodywork back on I wanted to know if its still best practice to re- torque the cylinder head bolts after its done a few miles? Or if it is would a few heat cycles in the shed be enough to save me having to remove and re fit bodywork again? Cheers

Quick question, this fell to bits when I stripped it down, do I need it, does it do anything ? the other end comes from 2 fat tubes out of the carbs, can I just plug the carb end or what?

What's been replaced or re-painted on the black one as it does look good as new, mine is being rebuilt at the moment but on a budget, even your hoses and clamps look new!

Thanks Pal, Interesting read, still in 2 minds if its doable as the oil cooler doesn't appear to fit and some bending and heating is required. Will give it some thought.

Yeah I've looked into them but from all the pictures its hard to tell where they might be a tight fit and how much room there is for access, hence me asking if anyone has done it and has any pictures. It would be great if someone has done it and has pics of it. I don't want to go through buying lots of different ones just to see if I get lucky.

Has anyone actually fitted an exhaust from an oilboiler or bandit etc to an 1100 WP? I have an unknown system on mine its a four in to one but I need to remove it to change the oil filter so I'm looking for something that will clear the low sump and the oil filter, anyone have experience of a viable option, or do I need to spend 800 on a new four into one? cheers

Cheers T

I read the same somewhere recently but can't remember who / where ?

My GSX1100 has been a pain in the arse ref the carbs and so to make it easier to work on I was thinking of going for APE Super Pro pods and getting rid of the air-box which seems to take about 2 hrs to re-fit not to mention my mangled fingers etc. I was going to go FI over the winter and do away with carbs all together but I bought a GSXR instead so funds are now much more limited, hence looking at a cheaper option. I have a V&H pipe and the standard carbs are jetted according to the V&H website, they were stripped fully cleaned and fitted with new jets yet it was always a pig on choke, reving it nuts off or stalling, once warmed up it ran fine. I used it through the summer but on the last time out it wouldn't re start, it ran shortly on 2 cylinders and then died, we ended up draining all the carbs as it had flooded and I then got it home and it ran fine. I tried to stat it again and it was back to its none starting self again, so I left it in the shed. Now to cut to the chase if I can get rid of the air-box then working on the carbs should be much easier so was thinking of going for the good quality pod filters and the Dynojet stage 3 kit in the hope that this is near enough just to need minor tweaking. Is anyone else running a similar combination or has experience of the stage 3 kit with a standard engine?

I think its sorted ! I decided to replace the whole starter clutch assembly with a supposedly good used unit anyway it arrived today and this one seems much better than mine in that you can spin it without any notchiness or noise, its silent and smooth. So I expect that this will get rid of the whining noise that I had before. I can't test it yet as there is other work to do before I can get it running again but fingers crossed.

Update; Had chance to strip the bike down and investigate the noises coming from the alternator area and I'm not really any wiser. The alternator spins freely and quietly by hand and has no discernible play in it so that seems fine, so I pulled the drive gear housing and pulled out what I believe to be the starter clutch assembly and it seems generally fine with the rubber dampers all appearing to be in good condition. if you twist the gears there is a millimetre or two's movement at the outside of the gear which is the dampers clearance similar to cush drive rubbers. I've stripped it down further and the only thing I can find is that when spinning or turning the largest gear shown in the picture ( which incidentally will only move in one direction ) it is notchy and slow to turn, so I'm not sure if this is correct or not or if its the source of the noise, any ideas?

Update; It's in lots of bits now so will be a while before I can start it and test it but I've striped the carbs and they are already very clean I've not found any blockages but I have found worn needles and the settings don't match any specific countries setup listed in the manual? The bike has previously been imported as it came with a KMH speedo, so I'm assuming European. Here's what I've got BST40's, with 127.5 mains and 40 pilots and the pilot screws were all 2.5 turns out. The Emulsion tube id's are 6996 p 2 Needle jets are 6ZD13's with the clip on the 3rd slot The trouble is that this actual combination isn't shown in the manual, having said that its been this way for quite a while I imagine so not sure if its anything to worry about, I'll probably price up new needle jets to replace the worn ones and put them back together. Is there anything obviously wrong with the above? and here is a screenshot of the details from the manual.

Yep all of the above is on my to do list, which gets longer each day !

GSXR1100WP --I suspect this might be similar to the Slingy Carb issue with emulsion tubes from what I've just read, anyway here is the story. Bought an 1100wp cheap that needed a few chassis jobs doing so got these done and went for a short test ride which was fine. Since nothing fell off or leaked over the tyres I went out again and opened it up a little and it absolutely flies but after 10 mins riding i.e when its properly warmed up and off choke there is a real hesitation from around 2500 to 5000 revs roughly so bad that I thought it was actually conking out on me but I dropped it a gear and gassed it and eventually once the revs got higher it chimed in and ran on all four again, when it does it it feels like its running on 2 cylinders its that bad. On choke it runs as expected nice and smooth and pulls and revs normally, then off choke its smooth up to 2,5 to 3k revs and rough until 5 to 6k revs and then runs normal higher up. Given the state of it I doubt its had any meaningful servicing so will go through it from one end to another, but was just wondering if this is a common issue? cheers in advance

Doesn't sound far out depending on the exact condition, there was a mint one at the Stafford show and they were asking £3495 for it but everyone adds a grand to anything at Stafford! There are a few on EBlag for similar money but at least one of them was a cat C.

Has anyone actually built and run a N/A hybrid motor, because I'm wondering if the possible gains if any are worth the effort. Or was there another reason to build the Hybrid motor ? Just wondering as I have an 1100wp and weighing up options if I had motor problems in the future it would be good to know what possible alternatives there are.

Cheers, did it with 5w as if I don't like it, it can be changed later but after an hours test ride today all seems fine

Thanks for the update Henrik. I'll get moving on this myself when the winter sets in.