NorthernBloke

Thanks Blubber, I'll do some more research.

Thanks everyone, I'm glad I asked as it sounds like the right thing to do and I'm not way off with my thinking, anyway a few more questions if I may. There are a clean set of GPZ11 TB's on Eblag now so in terms of injectors does anyone know if they will take modern injectors or are they physically different to modern ones? and is it just the impedance and the age / wear on the current ones that could be an issue? Also ref the Ignition side is there a lot to be gained over the standard electronic ignition, is there much fine tuning to be done on this side of things apart from adding in Advance for more power? Cheers guys keep the good info coming.

It's a shame to have them laid up for so long, how come?

Anyone gone FI on a standard aircooled GSX that's N/A ? I'm thinking ahead again ( as usuall ) and given that fiddling around with old carbs and the standard airbox is a royal pain in the A** thought about going FI. Given that flat slides are expensive and still need jetting and filters of some kind you're in for a grand so wondered if I could do FI for less? I'm good with electrics so I'm not worried about that side of it and I've been through all the Turbo build threads so understand whats involved, so its really about which throttle bodies to use etc. does anyone know of any TB's that match my GSX 1100 port spacing or that have the same o/d on the inlets that would fit my carb rubbers. Can you go to big on the TB's as Ive seen a set of early Busa ones going cheap. Can I retain my standard electronic ignition and just take a feed from this to feed the fueling to keep it simple rather than going for a trigger wheel or would that be required for the fuel side only assuming I use a magasquirt or similar. Lastly I'm assuming this setup would be as good as a set of well adjusted flat slides or am I wasting my time? ps I like this idea as it has room to grow if the engine gets tuned in the future I can just re-map or put bigger injectors in etc.

Yes it really needs the side panels as well as the bottom rear of the tank comes down quite a lot, here's a picture;

Great idea ref turning down the sprockets, didn't think of that. Think I'll stick with the 170 tyre as I do want it relatively wide and go for the 530 sprockets and will then measue up before I get a chain that way if its tight I can look at turning them down to 520 width. From what I can tell a top quality 520 chain would be okay for a standard GSX ?

Here's a picture of the underside of my GSX1100 ESD tank, whilst I don't think this style of tank would suite your bike the cutouts may be similar to other GSX models?

Very clean, what's the plan ?

Thanks TC, I had similar thoughts and tried to find actual tyre width's for diefferent manufaturesrs to see if I could find a narrow 170 for example but haven't managed to find much, hence going for a 170 that "should" be safe. Also I've not seen many suitible 520 sprockets particularly offset fronts.

Thaks Pal I get that all bikes are different and I need to measure everything properly when the time comes so thanks very much for your help. At least I can crack on with buying the main bits that I'm missing ready for later, Tyre, chain, rear sprocket etc.

Also to be clear the machining was to the cush drive sprocket face and the spacers for each side of the wheel and that's it? Presuming that you used the disc, caliper and caliper bracket from the bike rather than from the new wheel.

Cheers for the info the RF wheel has 6 cushions, probably the same wheel? BTW shaving the cush drive by .080 is that metric or imperial?

That will fit, there are drawings on here somewhere for the engine mounts to fit the oil cooled engine 1100f or GSXR1100 or Blandit 1200 engine into the aircooled frame. the engine is shorter than the aircooled one so you can either push the engine back or forwards both have their pro's and cons. I'm sure someone will be along soon with more details.

Starting to gather parts for the winter updates but need some advice. Sorry its more questions and I know this topic has been covered many times in the past but none of the posts I've read to date clearly state the easiest option and by that I mean with the least amount of machining so ideally just using bolt on parts. So I have a GSX1100 esd and plan to keep the standard swinging arm to keep it simple and keep cots down, I have a 5.5 inch wheel from an RF900 and am wanting to just go for wider modern rubber. So my questions are if I stick with a 170 tyre presumably that would make chain clearance fairly easy and I can stil use modern rubber. Secondly does anyone make offsett sprockets in 520 or 525 pitch as again this would make more room, or am I best sticking to 530 pitch as this seems most common. Does anyone have a definative list of parts to use to complete the converson without any machining or is some machining going to be absolutely neccessary? Or is there anyone on here that could make spacers or shorten my current ones for me. Cheers

Thanks Pal, still a bit tatty in places but thats a job for next winter.

Right its finished for now, thanks to you guys who helped me out along the way. All I need is to get it regirstered, its Insured and MOT'd against the frame no atm and has had a few short " test " rides so the plan is just to ride it through the summer & Iron out any issues. It probably needs the carbs setting up on a dyno or by someone who really knows their stuff can anyone recomennd someone Debyshire or midands / Northwest who will be able to get it running spot on? Cheers, and have some pictures to look at.

it came with 112.5 mains and 45 pilots, I've removed the air box lid as well. I'm going to leave it as it is for now and get it back on the road and then maybe take it somewhere with a dyno once its road legal. its not 100% but its useable for now. Interesting about the 130 mains as on the website it said 122.5 which is what I've fitted, maybe that was for the US? or are there different V&H pipe specs maybe.

I suspect it will need up- jetting for the exhaust and for the filters since you have the pod filters already best to get the jets setup fro them if you can, are there any other symptoms when you say asthmatic?

Cheers Rick, I've re jetted and adjusted the float that was leaking and its much better not sure if its 100% though yet so will re fit the air box and balance the carbs and see how I get on if its not right then I'll go for some new rubbers. V&H recommended 122.5 mains and 47.5 pilots and it does seem much better with them.

Yes stock clips but hard rubbers. I adjusted the floats which improved things slightly but went too far with one carb dribbling fuel so had to call it a day. I’ve ordered the jets specified by V&H so will fit them sort out the float and try again. If it’s no better I’ll go over the rubbers and check for leaks I’ve not seen any splits so far.

Update; Got it running over the weekend and it has a few issues it seems to be running lean, still running with no air-box fitted yet, I wanted to make sure carbs were okay before re-fitting the standard air box. Anyway I've sealed of the vac pipe and will check the seal on the manifolds tomorrow and if still no better will lower the float height as when I re-built the carbs I had to adjust them quite a bit to get to the 22.4 mm setting quoted in the manual. Also the jets are standard and according to the V&H site I need to go up one size in the pilots and a few on the mains. So the latest question is all things being equal how much worse would you expect it to run with no air-box or filters because I want to get it as good as possible before I have a big fight with the air-box and frame! FYI symptoms I'm getting are erratic idle speed, popping and revs very slow to drop after being revved and its not smooth when the throttle is opened.

Thanks both, the carbs are 34's on mine and the jets and everything seem to be standard according to my Haynes manual. tho old plugs were black when I took them out but that could mean it was run on the choke or the floats were out so I can't rely on that to prove anything. I'll get it running and take it from there but if it does needs jets and further tuning the question about bigger carbs comes into play as it could be worth going through the same amount of work but with bigger carbs but the question is are the standard carbs a restriction with just a pipe and what kind of gains would you expect from the GSXR Carbs and dual filters which I believe is the preferred option?

Anyone running a Vance & Hines 4 into 1 pipe with an otherwise standard GSX11OO , If so what jetting works? Just to re-cap the bike is a barn find and I've not had it running yet been going through everything and hopefully should be ready to try and start it by weekend but when I stripped and cleaned the carbs the jetting is standard, since the bike came with the pipe already fitted and it looks as if its been on for a long time I assumed it would have already been jetted to suite but it hasn't. According to the V&H website it says run 122.5 mains and 47.5 pilots with the air box lid removed can anyone confirm if this is correct for the UK? If need be I can take it somewhere and get it on a dyno and jetted properly but not sure yet if I need to. Also if I have to spend money with jets and dyno's, is it worth going to bigger GSXR Carbs to get some more oomph or is that a wast of time on a standard engine? Thanks once again and here is a picture of the pipe, which has been blasted and is being re-painted at the moment.

Cheers guys I’ve got it working now, the clutch switch works but the side stand doesn’t but I can live with that. It just seems weird that I have to pull the clutch to start the bike even when in neutral with the neutral light showing. I don’t know if that is normal or not or a US thing?

Progress update on the starting issue; after going through cleaning and checking all connections I found the side stand switch doesn't work but as it stays open circuit all the time I think this should be fine for now. Also struggling to find a pattern replacement I've seen rear brake light switches that look to have a similar fitment so will see if one of these can be adapted as they are cheap. Also managed to get it to spin over with the clutch pulled in which is real progress, but testing continuity of the switch it does seem to open and close when pulled, so not sure if you have to pull the clutch to start the bike even in neutral with the side stand up which seems a bit strange, anyway making slow but steady progress which is great. Onward and upwards !