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Posts posted by 370steve
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17 minutes ago, badger said:
I think he meant I could replace the threaded part in the engine for a different thread output bit from 1 to 1.5 and using the fazer oil filter. Probably my cheapest solution. Nervous of doing any damage taking it though!
I did that on my B12 engine in the GS
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2 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Both as it's the main oil feed. Feed my turbo from that, that's where the oil is on its way to the rest of the engin.
might look to use that one for the pressure sensor, see about using one in the sump for the temp
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13 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
When I had a pressure gauge fitted, I replaced the pressure switch with a legris fitting, and ran the small bore pipe through the hole for the wires so it was all hidden.
I now have a yoshI temperature guage with a sump plog sensor, works fine
Was thinking of one of the sump oil way plugs other than the sump drain plug, but not sure which one would be best for temp reading?
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32 minutes ago, clivegto said:
I would use the main oil gallery but that don't mean every body would.
Clive, for temp or pressure?
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going to be fitting an oil pressure sensor and an oil temp sensor to my B12 motor, which are the best plugs to drill for the two different readings?
I have looked for an oil way diagram but cant seem to find anything that showes the lower engine and best take off for pressur or temp readings.
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why are they not fitted yet???????
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Cheers guys mutchly appreciated, will be able to input data onto dash for gear indication now
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Does anyone have or know where i can get, the primary gear ratios in all gears for a stock B12 motor, final drive would be good too
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4 hours ago, Ben Slabby said:
The red/black and green/black can be ignored. They're connected to the CDI on a stock blandit and allegedly retardignition in the first two gears, or some shit.
Do you have +12v to the other side of the lamp so you can actually switch it to ground?
Now i know i can ignore the other two wires, sorting it wont be a problem cheers for the answer
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what are the other two wires used for? the red/black and the green/black? can they be dissconected?
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Right, need help with electrickery please, after fitting the M-unit and having removed the fuze box, i cant get the neutral light to come on?
i still have the stock B12 neutral switch with four wires connected to the harness with earth, red/black & green/black both to the ecu, blue goes straight to the dash LED.
i am getting no light either in or out of gear! if i put feed (+12v) through the blue wire to the dash i get the lamp to light. so that bit is working ok.
i have tried two good neutral switches.
is there a wire bodge that i dont know about, for after removal of the clutch/sidestand diode?
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sorry, not able too this time
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2 minutes ago, Swarf said:
I can price up materials if anyone's interested.
yes please
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talk to Chas at B&C Express, sure he will sort you out
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2 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
Only two things have really caused a problem since my conversion, the clip that locates on the threaded spark plug tip on one coil was weak and vibrated loose - I replaced it.
yep, i had the same problem, seems that if the coils havent been fitted correctly, or been on and off a few times, the wire clip that holds the spark plug top can wear badly and not grip the plug well.
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I couldnt find a link to where i got them from, but E-bay is a good bet.
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yep, frame between swing arm mounts = 23.5cm, TLR swing arm spindle end = 23cm
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what measurements do you need? i can measure mine
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What Ben said, they do a full kit
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nice job
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10 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Buy a 750 slabby or slingshot frame for a 7/12 with the aim of the finished bike to be at least 40kg lighter than a stock 1200 Blandit
easy, just dont fit a stock bandit pipe job done
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Shallow oil filter
in Oil Cooled
Posted
will try and dig the info out, but i had it made not got it from a shop.