Upshotknothole
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Posts posted by Upshotknothole
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I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this, but asking here to save myself a days hassle trying it and returning it back to stock. I've got a GSXR 750M/N with the stock carbs and a warn to hell dynojet kit in them. Bike runs ok, but only gets like 30MPG on the freeway, emulsion tubes and needles are shot, usual stuff. I also have a nice clean set of Mikuni RS38s that I know are too big for the bike, but just how much too big are they? I had a J/K 748 years ago with RS36s and that bike was amazing fun, as long as you kept it over 5K. Every time I see 38s listed as being compatible for the 750s, I start to wonder a little...
Just how bad will the bike be on the street with RS38s? I know I should just buy RS36s for it, but I have other priorities right now. I also don't care about bottom end, I've got a 7/11 for that. I also have an 1127 sitting on the bench that could be used once I go through it, but I really like having a 750 again.
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In the past when I've had it done, they did the car exhaust for a bit and then hooked up a second tank of argon to keep the tank purged while tig welding it.
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The Sudco part number should be Sudco P/N : 002-905 it's listed wrong in that thread.
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58 minutes ago, HWB said:
Sorry for the double post.
Anyone know the thickness of aluminum on the gas tank ? Im going to cut it and make a bubble and reweld, gathering materials so i guess its around 1mm ? Is it 2mm ? Anyone know for sure ?
They're steel and if you remove the petcock you can measure the thickness of the bottom of the tank, it's pretty thin metal.
If you want to move the throttle pull to the left side, there's a thread with the part numbers.
https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/12676-left-side-pull-mikuni-rs-flatslide-carbs/
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6 hours ago, TJS said:
Blue came on all '94 GSXR 750. The blue one on the '94 gsxr 750 SP were special built and thinner walled to be lighter.
There were blue one on some 1100's, but were bigger diameter and heavy!
Thanks, that's what I was looking for.
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RS 38s tend to be a bitch to get in, try putting a little oil on the boots when forcing them in, and I've used everything from a ratchet strap to a 2x4 to get them to slide in. If your boots are really that hard and shrunk, it might be time to replace them before you start getting intake leaks.
You could always blank off the petcock hole and get a bung welded in slightly forward where you have more room, or even move it to the rear of the tank. Is this an 1100 frame or a 7/11? I think the pingel off of one of the GSX-F models had a reserve, but I didn't see them listed on their website anymore, so not sure if they're still available or not.
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You can add some spacers to the back of the tank, or go with a Pingel. The Pingel needs an adapter plate, but if space is really tight, you can get a bung welded directly to the tank instead of using the adapter.
http://www.pingelonline.com/motorcycle-fuel-valves/dual-outlet-32gsxr-d-ah.asp
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What Captain Chaos said. I just swapped the broken bracket on my 750N from an 1100. The tail lights are identical except for the lack the bottom being clear for the license plate light. From what I can tell everything else with the tail light assembly is the same between the 1100s, the bracket, and the trim piece.
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I've always preferred Factory Pro myself. Might as well leave the stock bike stock if it's running fine. Maybe throw a stage 1 kit in to the one with the Yosh pipe. I'm guessing you're keeping these stock?
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Yeah, even the blue forks that I've seen on that site are pretty faded at this point and could definitely benefit from being redone. Also any forks I get I plan on having fully rebuilt.
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I can’t remember anymore if there was any difference in the front ends that came with the blue forks. It wasn’t just an SP thing right? I’ve got a US N model with pretty tired forks and was thinking about seeing if I could find a decent set of the blue anodized ones mainly because I like how they look. Also there are a lot more W forks out there than oil cooled forks at this point.
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Hindle sells a full system for the 750 J/K slingshots. Some 1100 and bandit12 systems will fit, but they do all tend to hang a bit low and can interfere with the oil cooler. I’m currently running a full Akra off a 1200 on my N, but I would prefer something that was a bit tighter to the oil pan.
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Not gonna get that much more power out of it on a dyno with the air box and stock exhaust on it. It’s nice to see an all original survivor from time to time here in the states. Glad you got it sorted.
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Which slingshot? 88-89, 90-91, 1100, 750? I might have some that I could trace/photograph.
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3 hours ago, beardo said:
And that actually is something I have been seriously considering. If that's the way, besides the N model, what Suzuki models are a hookup and go proposition?
I'm only familiar with the GSXR harnesses, but they all have a sub harness for the headlights. If the bandits are the same, it's pretty easy to sacrifice one to hookup any type of headlights you like. You can even get some pretty trick LED single bucket headlights now that will take a standard H4 plug.
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You could always ditch the fairing and stock headlights and put on a nice big single bucket headlight.
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I'm out in Portland, OR. That bike is really clean, definitely hold on to that full yosh system. Aftermarket exhausts are pretty much impossible to find for our gen of 750s at this point. I was running an 1100 exhaust on mine, gave up on trying to find a used exhaust anywhere.
Here's mine. I rode it from LA to PDX last fall and haven't really touched it since. I need to go through the whole bike again now that it's finally starting to warm up out here. I sure do love GSXRs with colored wheels.
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As others have said regarding the engine, all depends on how much you want to spend. Flat slide carbs don't lose much value if you buy them and decide to go sell them later when going with a turbo build. I've got a full Akra bandit 1200 exhaust on a slingshot 750. Gotta space the oil cooler out, but otherwise it fits fine. Most of the 1200 exhausts should work on a GSXR frame with a little bit of tweaking. Full exhaust and a jet kit or some Mikuni RS carbs won't take the bike off the road for very long and will let you have some fun over the summer while you decide what direction you want to go with it.
I've rode a friend's bandit that had a holeshot 1216 kit and lumpy cams, fun bike but still a bandit at the end of the day. Before you dump a bunch of money on suspension, definitely look more into getting a slingshot or slabby frame. You can find bare frames in the states here on Eblag, but you're always going to be better off buying a full donor bike. Things like bodywork, controls, gas tank, will all add up pretty fast.
I'm out in the PNW and also avoid facebook. Keep an eye on craigslist, stuff pops up from time to time. I don't know what it's like out there, but definitely check across the border up in Canada. For some reason out here, there's way more old GSXR stuff for sale across the border in Vancouver than there ever is in Oregon and Washington combined. I think Americans might have just done a better job of destroying GSXRs back in the day.
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On 3/29/2022 at 7:41 AM, fatblokeonbandit said:
Yup it’s all do able, my teapots got gsxr K7 forks in slingy yokes with b12 wheel and discs. Yahmaha calliper's, home made spacers, disc spacers and modified speedo drive, none of it’s difficult, just need a lathe.
Any idea if the full K7 front end will fit in USD slingshot forks? I've got a Yosh top triple that I'm kinda fond of, but would prefer modern forks and brakes.
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What part of the country are you in? With only 2500 miles and what were stock carbs, nothing should be worn out in them yet. Sounds like you're on the right track with the float levels, and just accept the fact that these engines like being revved out and were never really designed to be useful below 3K. As long as they idle well, no hanging idle or anything, and it doesn't stall when rolling around parking lots, they should be fine. All the real fun is up above 9K. The tachs on the 88/89 750s didn't even start until 3K.
I've got a (US)92 750 with the same carbs, but they have a warn out dynojet kit in them and they run like shit below 5K. I was going to pull them and stick on a set of Mikuni RS36s, but I've got a spare 1127 engine, carbs, and exhaust, so I'll be going that route instead. Post up some photos of the bike, don't see a lot of super clean low mileage stock bikes around here.
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Try giving Factory Pro a call or shoot them an email? They have a little bit of tuning info on their website. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods06.html Also check your intake boots the next time you have the carbs on and the bike running. Just spray some starter fluid or similar around the intake boots and see if the throttle jumps. These bikes also don't have a ton of power below 3K, but you shouldn't be fouling plugs. How many miles on the bike? Usually the emulsion tubes are the first thing to wear out.
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I ran a stock dual outlet slingshot 750 petcock with RS38s and it flowed plenty of fuel, eventually switched to a Pingel for the extra space as it was a 7/11 and to ditch the vacuum line off the number four intake boot.
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I'm hopefully gonna be pulling an old 95 braced 750 swing arm out of an 1100M(?) frame over the weekend. Did the swap well over a decade ago, don't remember it being all that hard. I'll see how I managed to fit it all together as I don't recall buying anything for it. I do remember it making a world of difference in handling through fast turns compared to the stock swing arm.
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Yeah, the J/K are definitely the smallest. I've got an N(US model) that I'm about to swap an 1100 into, and I'm pretty sure it's still smaller than the 1100 frames but it has always felt bigger than my K 7/11. I'll measure them in the next couple of days and report back.
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Stupid question regarding RS carbs on a 750.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Cool, I'll throw them on for the weekend and see just how stupid they are. Thanks for the insight.