Reinhoud
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Posts posted by Reinhoud
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It's installed, wasn't a fun job, I hate f-ing around with those lines..
Because of the length of the valve I was limited in choice where to put it.
Know in a couple of days if it does it's job
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When the bike is straight up the scavenge is above oil level.
In the past I did have a check valve in the line, but they always stuff up after a while, and I don't think the scavenge sucks hard enough to open the check valve I have now...
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10 minutes ago, Maggotbreath said:
That should fix your smoking issue. Originally my catch can was too small and it still smoked, my line volume was greater than the tank. I see your tanks is 300 cc, that's huge. If ya calculate the line volume between the check valve and the tank ya might be able to go with a smaller tank. My tank is aprox 6cc
It's not smoking, it starts leaking after a couple of days.
The tank is that big because I thought it wasn't big enough, this is the 3rd tank, bit bigger every time.
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This is the valve
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9 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Is it done yet then???
No pressure at all...
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I bought a set of Raask for my 1000, didn't like the position of the pegs, so I modified it a bit..
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Got the check valve in the other day.
Also got the connections to install it in the feed line, now find the motivation to put it in
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Anyone here who actually measured the bores after getting it back from the machine shop? If yes, how accurate was it?
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On 9/12/2022 at 2:16 PM, FJD said:
Most important part atm for me is recommended clearence between piston and bore to tell the machine shop.
And then hope the machine shop actually gets it at the right size...
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On 11/12/2022 at 1:07 AM, larry996 said:
Reinhoud, did you ever locate that US company that makes quality gaskets?
BTW, I took my oil pan off yet again. Cleaned it up and the gasket. Remounted it with some RTV. Damn thing is leaking again!!!
I bought an OEM and will try that with some RTV to seal it up for good hopefully
https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/174077174076
https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/154213664881
Both seem to be ok.
I did have troubles with aftermarket valve cover gaskets in the past, after that I always bought the OEM ones, but no problems with these.
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On 11/12/2022 at 1:23 AM, Gixer1460 said:
Have u checked if pan is flat? New gaskets and RTV won't help if it's warped.
Yes it does, you just need more RTV
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Not sure if the 1000 and 750 frames are equally wide at the pivot point for the rear fork, but I think a rear fork from a Bandit 1200 looks good in a GS.
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On 10/30/2022 at 2:40 AM, BikeJake said:
Anyone every pressed one of these mildly breathed on motors over big distances? I love a bit of long distance riding, have done some big miles in Europe in the passed...
Will I need additional oil cooling for a tuned bandit motor out and about in France... Day after day?,
When it can do 100kms, it can do 2000kms
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15 hours ago, rerb said:
Watched some gopro footage of some of my pulls, with my boost controller full shut (10 psi) my gauge read as high as 25!! Which explains why it kept cutting out (ignition)
This only happens with my exhaust off. I'm using an internally gated turbo, would mocking up an exhaust stop this, or do I need to look into external wastegates? Thanks.
Modify your ignition so it doesn't shut it off and have some more fun
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Connect a O2 sensor with AFR gauge, without it's guessing.
Sometimes too rich or too lean can have the same symptomes.
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11 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
Usually acceleration is slower with a larger front sprocket.
Must be Australia....Depends how hard the engine has to work
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7 hours ago, TLRS said:
Would just a scavenge pump do if it's kept running for a bit after stopping the engine?
Most likely.
But you have to go electric then
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Little update;
Been riding with the TD04 for a while now, I like it. Doesn't kick in as hard as the VF20, but goes alright, weird combination of first a bit gentle (lag) and then it's all there..
The TD04 does a way better job at higher rpm.
For the TD04 are reconditioning sets available, so you can do it yourself! Not too hard, set cost about 150AUD.
Bike was at an annoying rev range when riding around 100km/h. Therefore I put a bigger (1 tooth) front sprocket on it, this did the trick.
Now doing 100km/h at about 3700rpm.
But, there is a side effect I didn't think of, it accelerates way harder/faster now! The other thing it also does now, it lifts it's front wheel way too easy, the first couple of times it's fun, but I don't feel it coming, but ''too much'' throttle and it comes up, also it 4th gear.
And with the police being that strict here, and quite a few unmarked police cars it's not that fun..
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I did an attempt to order the check valve..
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4 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
now, I've been following your progress from the beginning. Awesome work, especially your oil pumps, kudos! How the hell did you dream that stuff up?!!!!
Hehehe. that took a while, the initial idea was there pretty quick, figuring out how to do it, how to drive it was the challenge.
It's about 50% thinking of it before you start, 50% design as you go.
Running out of other options was probably the main thing to do it like I did it..
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Thanks guys!! Much appriciated!!
I was just thinking, a loop in the sucktion doesn't do anything either I guess..
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I've been thinking for a solution of my problem, the only thing I can come up with a loop in the suction part of the oil pump, the loop goes above the oil level.
Anyone who has a different / better idea, please let me know.
Thanks
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1 hour ago, TLRS said:
What does the scavenge tank do that a sump can't? Sorry if it's a dummy question..
It's needed because the turbo is below the oil level.
The scavenge tank catches the oil from the turbo and lines after the engine has been turned off
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Damn, that's something I didn't think of!!!
Would a check valve do anything? Because the oil keeps flowing in the same direction?
Thanks!
Foot rest hangers upgrade
in Air Cooled
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